- This topic has 16 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 6 months ago by
.
- Topic
WOW! Eric’s site continues to be a godsend! It has given me the confidence to do many of my own repairs and in fact have posted a few of the step-by-step repairs in the other section.
Now I am on to the replacing the steering rack on my 1989 Honda Accord Lxi, 5 speed, FI, 2.0L, 250K+ miles, original owner car! That video of Eric’s is the greatest!
But today’s questions are about the front brakes! While I was doing the UCAs, TREs and Sway Bar links a buddy glanced at the brakes and said you need new pads and rotors. So NAPA was having a sale on brakes last summer so I bought the front sets. Didn’t put them on because, well I figured I get my money’s worth out of the existing brakes and as soon as I heard the signs of metal on metal scraping I could swap the rotors and pads. But now that I am into the knuckle anyway, its time to do the brakes.
So I pulled the pads and rotors off (once again Eric videos to the rescue!) and noticed uneven wear: the RF inner pad was worn down to the metal and the outer pad was rather thick.
In fact, the LF pads had more wear on them than the RF outer pad. Hmmm, I was scratching my head on that one…well, until I watched this video! https://www.ericthecarguy.com/brake-videos/511-how-to-diagnose-and-replace-a-bad-brake-caliper
Question Answered!So I watched that video twice and took notes, then watched the older video and added to the notes. Then I watched a few more brake videos and searched this forum for the last 2 months…but still I have a few questions. Hope the forum is as kind in helping out once again!
1. I see the recommendation to crimp off the brake lines using the fuel line protected vise-grips. That makes sense and looks straight forward. However, it brings up two questions (maybe I over think things?):
- A. My parts guy says that those rubber hoses rot out from the inside out, so isn’t crimping them going to aid in break down of the hoses?
- B. What does one do if they don’t crimp the hose as shown, OR, if as Eric now recommends, switches over to steel braided brake hoses that can’t be compressed?
2. I see the suggestion to NOT use never-seize on the bracket bolts, instead oil them. May I ask why? Have bolts with never-seize come loose? If keeping them in place is important, why not use loc-tite?
3. I see Eric puts never-seize on the ends of the brake pads where they contact the shims. I have seen other videos that also suggest adding some silicon paste or never seize to the back of the inner pad, where it contacts the cylinder. Is this a good idea or not?
4. New pads came with the wear indicators already installed, those pads go on the inside or out side of the rotor?So those are my questions. Appreciate any help those more knowledgeable are willing to share!
– CanDo807
- Replies
OK as a follow up to this repair:
[b][color=#ffbb00]
Thanks again to everyone for all of the kind help![/color][/b]Under the classification of “No Good Deed Goes Unpunished” I offer this:
Got done bleeding the front brakes after the new rotors & pads and one caliper rebuild and noticed the brake fluid was rather dark in color. I’d say more brown than amber! So I decided it would probably be a good idea to flush the rest of the system. OK, no problem! Eric has a video for that!
So I whip off the back wheels and attempt to take the drum off. Lots of beating, tried the screw trick, but the inexperienced mechanic left the emergency brake on, making drum removal impossible. Once I figured that out…. drum popped right off! {experience is a powerful teacher!) Then I looked around back and could not see any bleeder screw. HUH? But Wait! I watched the video and knew the “work around” – just loosen the connection between the hydralic tubing and the wheel cylinder and let it bleed out there! OK, so I do that and eventually get clear fluid. Then I get to putting the drum back on and when it would not fit I saw this:
Oh joy! I mixed up the videos and should NEVER have had the drum off while pumping the brakes! But the cylinder was out too far and wouldn’t go back. Now I just got done rebuilding a caliper so this little thing didn’t scare me. Carefully removed the wheel cylinder, put it in the vice and took it apart and put it back together. Then on the back I see that the bleeder is snapped off! No wonder I could not find it! That means a new wheel cylinder. OK, if I’m here…. measured the drums and they are at 200mm vs a spec of 201mm. Ah hem! No rivets showing on the shoes, but looks pretty thin. Guess I’ll be emulating the drum brake videos soon!
Then on the OTHER side, I left the drum on, but while loosening the fitting to the back of the wheel cylinder, this happened:
snapped off the metal tubing! Oh joy! But wait! I know what to do! Where are those hose covered needle-nose vice grips to pinch off the flow?
Of course can not find OEM parts (well maybe in England) but did find the pre flared tubing with fittings at AZ and borrowed a tubing bender and was able to get a new tube bent and in place! (first try!)
The “white stuff” you see on the ends is extra anti-seize I glopped on the threads and the neck of the fitting. Hope this helps retard any corrosion of the steel tubing & fitting?
So yeah, all new brake fluid and everything back in shape (until I do the rear brake job)
I’m excited! It is fun that I have learned enough that on occasion I can solve problems on my own! But is is always comforting to know that friendly & helpful people live here when I need it!
[b][color=#ff00bb]
Thanks again to all for the education, help, advice & support! MUCH APPRECIATED![/color][/b]
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.