- This topic has 11 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 10 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
-
Replies
-
No disrespect, but I have to ask. You sure you turning it the right way?
Also, which exactly bolt is it? 14mm does not sound right for a strut. Or shock.What kind of car is it? How many miles? Is the rear strut separate from the spring? For my car, I needed to use a floor jack to compress the rear spring slightly. I placed the jack under the control arm where it connects to the knuckle. I compressed the spring about 1/2 an inch. If you don’t compress the spring, it puts downward pressure on the strut mount bolt, making it hard to turn. You might have a different setup, so check online.
It also could be rust. Honestly, suspension work is way easier with pneumatic tools. However, a long breaker bar will help.
Here’s an example of how to use a floor jack to compress a rear spring. I just found this photo online, so it’s not my car.
LOL, may dad asked me the same question… And yes I am turning it right. Righty-Tighty Lefty-Loosely.
It’s a Honda Civic with 150k miles on it. This is the first time I’m replacing the rear shock absorbers. THey are NOT springs or struts.
Not sure what the year of the car is, but here is a detailed description of the job for a 2006-2011 Civic. http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/00/SNB6E00B44100019102KBAT00.html Clicking on the little grey rectangles displays diagrams, which will help.
After supporting the car securely with jack stands, use your floor jack to compress the spring slightly.
Place the car on axle stands place a floor jack under the rear spring jack it up until the floor jack is just compressing the spring this will make sure there is no weight on the shock.
IF PB isn’t working as you’re replacing it you could try heating but it is not normally required,
Try hammering the bolt to shake the rust free (dont mushroom the head)
Then try and get a good 24 inch + breaker bar on it to break it loose.
If you look where that bolt is it should tell you that that bolt is the most likely bolt on the car to rust weld in place (excluding exhaust). I suggest an air wrench using a quality air wrench socket. If that doesn’t break it loose, stop before you tear up the bolt head. It is probably going to need the red wrench (torch) so take it to a shop.
I’ll be tackling it this week again with PB Blaster, banging the heck out of it, and heating up the area around the bolt. And it is a 2008 Civic LX 4 door
No amount of PB blaster, heat, or force is going to help unless you use your floor jack to compress that coil spring. Those springs each carry 1/4 the weight of the car. I think that you’ll be in good shape otherwise. Keep us posted, and good luck.
UPDATE!!!
I got the bolts off, butttt I had to cut them off with a angle grinder and saw-zall. I tried an impact gun first and no luck.
Then I banged the shit out of the bolt and eye of shock, no luck.
Then I heated it up with a torch, and the only thing I did was burn the rubber bushing inside the eye on the bottom of the shock. The bolt was turning but it wasn’t going to come out unless I bent the frame cuz the bolt was threaded into the frame.
So finally I just took an angle grinder and saw-zall and cut the bolt on both sides of the shock. Went to the Honda dealer and bought two new bolts. Put a shitload of Anti-Seize paste on them and reinstalled new shocks….
5 hours later…..ALL DONE!!
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.