New Starter Gets Very Hot When Connected 92 Sentra

[Mac]

Hello and thank you for taking the time to read my post!

Short Story
New starter (verified working at autoshop) gets hot when the battery is connected, even when the key is not engaged. It is the solenoid part that is getting hot I believe. What could I have messed up during install?

Long Story
I have a Sentra 1992 GXE Auto that wouldn’t start. It would click at the relay and not dim the headlights when I turned the key, so I hit the starter and it worked for I while.

I replaced it to be proactive, before my old one left me stranded. I noticed the new starter getting hot at the solenoid after trying to start it. After reinstalling it and trying again, I took it back to the shop where they tested it and confirmed that the starter is fine.

It warms up right away when the battery cable is connected, before I go to start it

Here is the current status;

Does not start
Does not crank
Starter gets hot

New Starter, tested working at shop
Battery is charged
Headlights, wipers, auto seatbelts etc work
Engine warning lights work
Headlights do not dim

Safety relay in engine clicks when key is turned

So… My best guesses are;

Bad ground somewhere?
Somewhere a positive cable is touching a neutral or ground?

I have a basic multimeter, but I am still learning how to use it to diagnose this problem.

Please advise. I am new to this car but hopefully other people will benefit from this too.

Topic

[college man]

If the starter solenoid is seeing voltage without turning the key, The relay
may be making contact sending some voltage. Check for voltage at the starter.
If some voltage is seen pull the relay to see if voltage drops. If this happens
the relay may be stuck or have a contact touching.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/no-start-faq/solving-automotive-no-start-problems

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems

[Mac]

Thank you for the response and the links!

I will read through those threads now and give it a go.

[college man]

[quote=”MacNissan” post=161467]Thank you for the response and the links!

I will read through those threads now and give it a go.[/quote]

Keep us posted on your progress.

[Mac]

Thank you, no dice so far. I tried a new relay too since is was 10 bucks.

What can j try next? I am still new to the multi meter but want to learn more.

Thanks again

[Mac]

It seems to get hot even with the relay pulled. Does that mean the current is somehow able to get past the open relay?

[college man]

[quote=”MacNissan” post=161598]It seems to get hot even with the relay pulled. Does that mean the current is somehow able to get past the open relay?[/quote]

If the relay is pulled and its still getting hot. I would check the wires to the starter are hooked up right.
You may have mixed something up. I’m attaching the wiring to the car.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Sentra/1993_Sentra/wiring%20diagrams.pdf

[Mac]

Thank you for the link. The wiring on the starter seems impossible to mess up.

Hot goes to an empty post on starter.

Neutral gets connected through one of two bolts that are necessary for
attaching the starter.

All that is left is the little click connector

Thank you again the advice is appreciated!

[Matthew]

So I am a little confused here. Are you saying the starter has been checked out by the parts store as being fine; yet when you install in the car it both gets hot immediately without trying to start car and doesn’t crank the engine?

[Dave Tidman]

Have you tried hooking up the 12V without the click connector connected? If it still heats up, make sure the connections are very clean and check the voltage drops from point to point or check the resistance with the battery disconncted.

Is there somewhere else to get the starter and selinoid tested? Does the starter run if you bypass the selinoid?

[Mac]

Thank you both for your replies and ideas!

So I am a little confused here. Are you saying the starter has been checked out by the parts store as being fine; yet when you install in the car it both gets” hot immediately without trying to start car and doesn’t crank the engine?

Correct and correct. After I installed it (twice) and it wouldn’t crank I went back to O’really’s part store to get it tested. The starter gear extended properly on their machine.

Have you tried hooking up the 12V without the click connector connected? If it still heats up, make sure the connections are very clean and check the voltage drops from point to point or check the resistance with the battery disconncted.

I will try skipping the click connector in the morning. You are suggesting that ;

-If it still heats up, Voltage drop test both the positive and negative cables looking for the spot that might wrecked.
-If it seems fine, voltage drop test the click connector line’s path.

Is there somewhere else to get the starter and selinoid tested?

I can find another parts store close enough to try it, hopefully tomorrow.

Does the starter run if you bypass the selinoid?

The starter and the solenoid are attached, each with a threaded post terminal.

Is this the correct way to bypass the solenoid and test the starter;
-Clamp it down
-Connect Neutral
-Ignore click connector (Am I correcting is guessing this little wire goes to the inhibitor relay to tell the starter when to start?)
-Switch the positive cable from the solenoid post to the other one directly on the starter, and brace for impact?

Thanks again to everyone so far for your help!

[Mac]

It must have been some sort of internal short in the solenoid. And I think you are correct that the issue only came up when the nut on the post was tight. Thank you for your help!

At the parts store the tested the started again before honoring the warranty. Since it worked fine when only powered with clamps they didn’t want to exchange it. My response was since it “works” why not refund me instead of an exchange. They exchanged it.

Thank again to everyone!

[Dave Tidman]

Cool! Glad you are back on the road and thanks for letting us know it is fixed!

I’m thinking from now on when I have a parts store test something, I’m going to have them tighten bolts on studs just in case.

[college man]

glad you worked it out.

[Randy]

Interesting to note that the Nissan factory schematic College Man provided a link for has an error on the solenoid ground side. There should NOT be a connection shown between the starter motor feed wire and the solenoid-ground side, as that would become a direct short to ground when the motor is energized.

[Shaun Flichel]

[quote=”hotshot” post=161756]Interesting to note that the Nissan factory schematic College Man provided a link for has an error on the solenoid ground side. There should NOT be a connection shown between the starter motor feed wire and the solenoid-ground side, as that would become a direct short to ground when the motor is energized.[/quote]

Good catch. That for sure would get it nice and hot with the key turned.

To the original poster. Good to read you got it solved.

[Author]

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