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Its a good point you make!
Although alot of torque values are ‘dry’ so bare that in mind for the people reading this.
Also becareful of the amount of anti seize and type you use on spark plugs if you prefer that method.
I’m with ya on that one! I love to make my job easier the next time. But like stated above you have to be careful with bolts. I especially like anti-seize on hub surfaces where the rotor always seizes to it. I’m a flat rate tech at a GM dealer, still clean, spray primer and apply anti seize to the hubs on anything I do brakes on. Same with hub assemblies where they mount into the steering knuckles. Takes maybe an extra minute or two to make your or the next tech’s live easier next time the job needs done so why not do it. Wish all techs would think the same…
Quoted From johnbkobb:
When ever I remove a rusty nasty bolt during a repair job on my vehicles I clean it entirely with the wire brush on my grinder and then before it goes back in I give it a coat of Never Seez so that if I ever have to remove it again it will come out easily. I’ve done this for years anyone else do this?
My bad wrong Forum please delete I tried but I can’t do it, Thanks
I don’t do it on everything but I most definitely do it on exhaust stuff and anything that was a royal PITA to remove.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Its a good point you make!
Although alot of torque values are ‘dry’ so bare that in mind for the people reading this.
Also becareful of the amount of anti seize and type you use on spark plugs if you prefer that method.
Good point on most being dry torque values. Anyone who doubts there’s a difference try this test. Install 1 lug nut dry and then install another with anti-seize on the stud. You will be amazed at how much more tightening you have to do on the coated one before reaching the torque value.
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