need help with a/c

[jason]

this 2005 chrysler 300 will cool on driver side and is just sort of cool on the other side. I have ran into this problem before but those cars had a climate control for both sides this one is a single control. any ideas?

Topic

[Lorrin Barth]

Is there a difference in the amount of air flowing side to side?

[jason]

no the air flow is the same but the temp is warm on one side and cold on the drivers side.

[John Hugon]

I don’t what I’m talking about on a Chrysler product, but if it was a GM I would be looking at a blend door or calibration on the right side.

[jason]

yes i did look at the blend door but it looks to be working right as for calibration i do not no how to go about that on this car

[John Hugon]

Thanks to Jerry..Chrysler Master-Tech

You may want to try the recalibration on the blend door actuators to see if it helps.
A/C Heater Control Calibration
The heater-A/C control module must be re calibrated each time an actuator motor or the control module is replaced. If the vehicle is so equipped, the calibration procedure also includes rear HVAC positions for each actuator motor.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Simultaneously depress and hold the Power and Recirculation buttons on the heater-A/C control for at least five seconds . The manual heater-A/C control power Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Recirculation LED, or the Automatic Temperature Control (ATC) heater-A/C control Delay and Recirculation graphics will begin to flash when the calibration procedure has begun.
The calibration procedure should take less than two minutes to complete for the manual heater-A/C control, and less than twenty seconds for the ATC heater-A/C control. When the LEDs or graphics stop flashing, the calibration procedure is complete.
If the LEDs or graphics continue to flash beyond the normal three minute (manual) or twenty second (ATC) calibration time, it indicates that the heater-A/C control has detected a failure and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been set. Use a DRB III scan tool to perform further diagnosis. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. The LEDs or graphics will continue to flash even after the ignition switch is cycled OFF and ON, until a successful calibration is completed or until the vehicle has been driven about 13 kilometers (8 miles) .

[jason]

i will try this tomorrow and it sounds like that is the problem thanks

[jason]

could not stand it had to go out and try it and it worked thanks alot for the info jtf!

[jason]

well got back in this car took the car for a test drive the a/c was fine but the trans shutters while going in to 3 gear and the front end is about to fall out it is so lose and win you come to an stop the oil light comes on but this is a 2.7 with 160000 miles on it maybe the a/c was the least of this guys problems. have u any thoughts on the shifting problem. or oil light other than being wore out.it is a little funny because you can smell oil burning win the light comes on and then shut off the car and restart it the light goes off.

[John Hugon]

Good , I’m glad that helped…

When you get out of GM and Ford for me most of the time I need help…I have a friend that I have coffee with that knows Chrysler…(which gave me the info last night)…if he isn’t out fishing this morning maybe he can help… I’ll try contacting him.

[EricTheCarGuy]

[quote=”hambys auto” post=95331]well got back in this car took the car for a test drive the a/c was fine but the trans shutters while going in to 3 gear and the front end is about to fall out it is so lose and win you come to an stop the oil light comes on but this is a 2.7 with 160000 miles on it maybe the a/c was the least of this guys problems. have u any thoughts on the shifting problem. or oil light other than being wore out.it is a little funny because you can smell oil burning win the light comes on and then shut off the car and restart it the light goes off.[/quote]

Glad you got the AC worked out. You might want to start a new thread for the trans problem however.

[John Hugon]

The only thing I can come up is a TSB on a NAG1 transmission 3.7L and 5.7L engine. Water is getting inside the transmission through the fluid filler tube seal…..this is the best I can do for now…

If you need the detailed fix, it’s going to be e-mailed to me later…let me know if you need it.

2005 chrysler 300 3rd gear shutter

TSB#: 21-003-06

Date: February 18, 2006

Models: 2005-2006 LX (300/Charger/Magnum)

NOTE: This bulletin applies to LX/LE vehicles equipped with a NAG1 transmission (sales code DGJ) that were built prior to December 2005 with a TRANSMISSION build date of July 08, 2005.

Subject: Dipstick Tube Seal May Leak Causing ATF Contamination Or Transmission Shudder/Buzz

Overview: This bulletin involves tests to be performed on the transmission to determine the integrity of the transmission oil fill tube seal. Dependent upon test results: the oil tube seal will require replacement, the transmission may require a flush procedure, and/or the transmission torque converter may require replacement.

Symptom/Condition: Water may leak past the transmission oil fill tube (dipstick tube) seal. Dependent upon the amount of water accumulation in the transmission oil, the customer may experience a transmission shudder vibration and/or an audible high frequency buzz-like sound. The shudder vibration or buzz-like sound may be most noticeable during light acceleration where partial application of the torque converter clutch (TCC) in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear occurs.

The shudder/buzz condition may be due to the torque converter clutch and a “stick-slip” condition caused by contaminated transmission oil/fluid. The transmission fluid contamination may be caused by water intrusion past the transmission fill tube seal.

[jason]

well thanks a lot guys but the owner has decided to just let this one go did not want to spend any money after reading the reports on the 2.7 motor. but thanks for all the help this is some one else’s problem now banana:

[Author]

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