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1998 Dakota 2WD. The brakes are sticking to the point of smoking (front) after driving 5 miles or so.
The Master cylinder has been replace 2x since I’ve owned it (2 years).
The brake pedal is firm.
How does one determine if it’s the front calipers are sticking or it’s the master cylinder sticking ?
TIA
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I rest my case. Hoses are cheap and brakes are life and death serious. In a fifteen or 20 year old car, just replace them.
I don’t do brakes any more except on my own vehicles, but when I did I always made a practice of standing on the pedal as hard as I could before considering the job finished. If something is going to blow, you want it to be then, not while someone is on the road with it. Never U now and then a hose would blow during that test.
I hear ya loud and clear Sarge.
It was a metal line that popped not one of the rubber caliper hoses.
I just need to learn how to replace brake lines now.
I just watched a video on YT done by Eric. VERY informative and helpful.
Okay, being a Texan I don’t see many metal lines break since we don’t have the rust problem that is more common in the upper Midwest. Just another reason to stand on the pedal before putting it back in service.
Most metal brake lines that I have replaced over the years I have used the standard length straight lines and bent them into shape. Keeping good flaring and bending tools on hand and knowing how to use them is a very good thing to add to your bag of tricks though.
I am glad you found that weak line in the shop rather than someone discovering it in an emergency situation. Good job finding it!
easyest is to buy brake likes that are already formed to our car makes it a lot easyer to put in… bending them your self isnt to bad but just becareful not to kink it up and not to brake the line by bending it back and forth to much… but beyond that its not really all that hard… but you will probly also need to bleed the master now too… and I would replace all the hoses and lines if I was you
Now a fun fact and FYI… your front and back brakes are two diffrnt hydrolic systems so probly the backs or your fronts saved you… they do that because if like what you did line brake you atleast have some brakes… you also have the E-Brake as a backup….but when your bake line burst you will start to loose fuild quickily in the master but you hopelly have the other front or back brakes still have pressure in it to stop….
Just a Fun FactHere in Kentucky I see quite a bit of metal lines rusted through.
People don’t realize that washing their car can prevent this stuff….ok, same thing happened to me
for old cars, they dont make new brake caliper, they refurbish the ones people take back as core
so you bought 2 brand new looking old used calipers just like i did
Try to buy a complete assembly the bracket and the caliper together, I had better luck with the combo[quote=”Rob781″ post=172568]easyest is to buy brake likes that are already formed to our car makes it a lot easyer to put in… bending them your self isnt to bad but just becareful not to kink it up and not to brake the line by bending it back and forth to much… but beyond that its not really all that hard… [/quote]Finally found the time to work on it last night.
Good news, bad news.
Good news. I chose to use a straight length of the Ni-Copper line. 60″ for the RF line (caliper to junction box thingy). Great news is the Ni-Co line is super easy to bend by hand/fingers. I didn’t even have the need to use the tube bender I bought.
Now the BAD news. I found out the hard way that Dodge thought it was a great idea to use METRIC fittings instead of US size fittings ! I found this out AFTER I bent the line and fished it up into place. I went to screw the end into the adapter and NO GO !!
Now my only hope is the parts store has adapter fittings from Metric –> US size fitting ! What a PITA !
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