Need advice: scratched crankshaft nose/housing

[Maxwell myers]

I’ve been at war with a severely stuck Crankshaft Front Oil Seal for about a week, and yesterday I finally got that thing out of there by using a thick hook/pick thing that was able to leverage against the timing cover. In the battles along the way, there were a couple scars made, mostly on the timing cover, but also on the housing, which can be seen in this photo.
https://postimg.org/image/68hil255j/

Notice along the bottom rim of the housing, there is a little burr. Also, continuing on that underside lip, it’s very slightly textured and rough.

Along the nose of the crankshaft, too, there is a scratch. If I run my finger over it, I can barely, just barely register a little high-point/ low point.

There are also a couple spots of rust on the thing with slightly different roughness.

As well as all of this, I just noticed the crankshaft bolt has a couple little dents on the threads.
https://postimg.org/image/68hil255j/

I had wanted to replace the bolt when I put on the new damper, but I was told by some O’Reilly employees that the only way to do this would be to go through the dealer, because they didn’t show the bolt as being buyable, and told me to just re-use the old one. What do you guys suggest?

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[Ole Eggers]

I don´t see anything I would worry about. Any tiny shavings will either be caught by a magnet in the sump or your oil filter. I would just use some very fine grit sand paper to polish the crank nose a little bit before installing the new seal. Make sure you give it some lubrication, both on the rubber on the seal and on the crank nose.

[Maxwell myers]

Yeah, Iznogood, I am not worried about the shavings as much anymore. But were you just referring to the first images, or the one I just posted of the seal install? I’m afraid the warping/denting on the right side is a sign of a tiny channel between the seal and the housing, (apparent in the image as a shadow.)? The seal also is seated just slightly deeper on the left side than the right.

I use Eternabond tape to seal my RV roof, I know all about how the smallest little channels and folds create big leaks.

[Ole Eggers]

If you are worried, use the fine grit paper on the housing as well and then use a silicone based sealant on the outside of the seal when you install it. Put it on the edge of the seal so any excess material is pushed out of the engine instead of on the inside of the housing where it will be pushed in.

[Maxwell myers]

Thanks guys. I installed a new one today, looking pretty even and secure. I applied a little bit of silicone gasket around the front edge, where the front of the seal meets the housing.

Is it okay to put grease around the inside/outside of the dampener when I press fit it, but still put a tiny little dab of RTV in the keyway? Everyone seems to have contradicting information on what to do here. The general consensus seems to be “put grease on the inside and outside”, and then other people say “put a tiny amount of RTV”, or “use a ton of RTV, enough to cover the whole crank key.”, others say “You don’t need anything”, or “Just use motor oil”. So, can I do RTV + Bearing grease (conservative amounts of each). Will those react or change properties if they (accidentally) mix?

[Greg]

Anything outside the lip of the seal will be fine with nothing. I put a light film of motor oil on the lips of the seal so that the seal is not damaged on startup until oil actually gets to seal to keep it lubricated.

[Author]

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