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I own a 200SX S14A, had it for 2 years, so much have happened since then, but it’s gonna be a spirited everyday car, meaning not backbreaking stiffness, but it’s also gonna be really quick, powerful and reliable.
No shortcuts 🙂This is some of what have been done
Interior
Recaro Reclining Sports Seats in the front – Leather Alcantara.
200SX Lockwood Scuffplates
Birba Guages with Chrome rings.
New Gear gaiter leather
Guages.Engine:
MaxxEcu engine management/datalogger.
Bored to 86.5 vs 86 stock
JE 9:0 Compression pistons.
Eagle H conrods STD stroke.
Machined head, ported, stock cams, lighter valves, stock lift.
Ported Inlet Manifold
Stock crankshaft, balanced.
Greddy style wing Oil pan.
Metal head gasket 1.1 mm
Uprated ARP Head studs. std dowel.
H-Dev V2 Turbo Tubular Manifold.
Apex Performance Elbow.
K&N oil filter
No name 3″ downpipe for S14 modified with stainless flex for S14A
3″ -> 4″ racecat
Dual 3″ exhaust from cat and back
ACT 6 Puck spring clutch. 460 lb/ft.
Custom Water to Air intercooler.
Denso IK24 Sparks
Walboro 255 LPH Fuel Pump
Electric Fan( dual 11″) with Controller.
Autoguage Smoked boost guage.
Sandwich oil adapter for sensors.
Oil filter relocator.
19 Row Oil cooler for Engine Oil.
Driftworks Aluminium Radiator.
Injector Dynamics 1000CC Injectors
Mazworx Fuel Rail
Garett GT3071R Turbocharger.Suspension n brakes.
Tein Upper pillow ball adjustable camber plates for coilovers front.
KW coilover variant 3 inox-line
Nismo Tower strut brace.
Driftworks Subframe locking collars
Driftworks Tension Rods
Driftworks Toe rods
Driftworks Traction Rods
Driftworks Camber Arms
Megan Racing Front Tension Rod Support Bar
Megan Racing Rear Subframe Brace.
EBC Yellowstuff Pads in the front
Feredo ST Pads in the rear.
R34 GTT front Brake Calipers.
310 MM EBC Diamond Black Rotors
Uprated Hardrace Subframe Bushings
Uprated Hardrace Gearbox mount
Uprated Hardrace Engine mount
Uprated Rubber subframe bushings.
Uprated rubber Lower control arm bushing. Front and Rear.
Megan Racing Roll Centre Adjusters (Lower ball bearings, adjustable)
Megan Racing Bump steer Correctors (Tie rod ends, adjustable height)
Dodge RAM Power steering coolerCar itself:
Engine compartment as I recieved it:
White face dials and chrome rings to make it look sportier.
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Replies
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many updates.
I haven’t explained a lot how I got from A to B from the two last posts.So, I dropped the piggy back completely, went for a standalone ECU, Maxxecu is the name, sweedish design and manufacture.
Making harness adapter, didn’t have time to make complete loom
2000 usd, little pricey but it includes a whole LOT!. 8 K type temp inputs for exhaust gas, map sensor, Wideband sensor (calibrated) wiring, all you need on a stock engine apart from a temperature sensor!.
Also, I made some custom piping for IC and mass airflow sensor delete.
made a fan shroud:
Changed fuelrail and Injectors, Mazworx billet aluminium fuel rail with Injector Dynamics 1000CC
Powder coated black
Oil catchtank with a condensation plate inside and with venting back to inlet as rules for emission specify here, later powdercoated black
Replaced CAS disc with a less accurate as heat made the holes in the cam sensor become too small and failed to get proper signal, replacing it solved issues above 6500 rpm, and 7300 rpm was instant cut, no more!
Dyno papers with wastegate issues, high intake temp (55C, got it down 15C ! now) also high engine temp, replaced hoseclamps to prevent leak, aswell as a colder thermostat, 68C versus 76.5C that is standard nissan + the cas issues, hence the reason why the dyno actually stops at 6500rpm, we called it a day but in the video we made 314 whp, 1 and half hour prior to the dyno sheet.
Will update on new winter plans, and final MAJOR engine rebuild where the head will really be focused on, aswell as more electronic management, intake plenum.
Bottom end will be the same seemingly proven now with 2500+ hours driven hard.And remember, the dyno is conservative, where a mustang dyno measured a audi at 900 whp, this measured 730.
Did 210! Miles or 340 km on the Rudskogen track on saturday, car went strong all day without any issues other than a oil breather hose hopping off, just a bit of oil spill in the engine compartment, but otherwise going strong round after round.
Shortcar onboard video round the track
shortcar video linkNo signs of any overheating at all, you will see how the temps were after 20 mins of trackdriving!
I’ll attach some photos 🙂I had to install the seat for once and 4 all.
4 point harness, did just the drivers side this time.Ecu dashlogger screenshot (yes it’s android app!)
Our stand
being overtaken at the straight by a 400whp+ Opel, serious trackcar, one of the few that managed 🙂
in the middle of the long straight, the photographer had issues focusing with his fairly cheap DSLR
I ended up with not so white rims after a little while, was still several hours of trackdriving left!
Edit:
My thoughts, my experiences and all sorts of things regarding this build.
stick to a budget, stick to your plans, alter from them slightly, my ECU got changed to the better and Turbo was a bit bigger, other than that all my plans from last summer was right on spot.
do not attempt things like this on a daily car and your ONLY car.
make plans according to your skill and knowledge about engines and everything surrounding it, if you don’t understand the concept, don’t attempt it.suspension is the easiest, most important mod of them all, after that you get to brakes.
There is tons of articles, but these key words are IMPORTANT, VERY VERY IMPORTANT, stiffness is not handling!Roll Centre.
Camber Gain.
Toe Gain.
Undampened weight vs dampened weight.Brakes, straight forward, keep weight low, again undampened weight.
as for engine, stick to injectors and fuel delivery and bottom end, those are easy, save the head for later as it’s more complex
the build have been very easy so far, and I will come with details on the future build, and the final edition of this car, a lot of the same parts will be used, OEM spec as much as possible( stealing from other model cars and alike),
and a whole lot of neat ECU technology will be installed.
but for now it’s just to drive and drive this beast, it’s so trustworthy now it’s going to be good to do anything else than just fill up some oil 🙂Did 210! Miles or 340 km on the Rudskogen track on saturday, car went strong all day without any issues other than a oil breather hose hopping off, just a bit of oil spill in the engine compartment, but otherwise going strong round after round.
Shortcar onboard video round the track
shortcar video linkNo signs of any overheating at all, you will see how the temps were after 20 mins of trackdriving!
I’ll attach some photos 🙂I had to install the seat for once and 4 all.
4 point harness, did just the drivers side this time.Ecu dashlogger screenshot (yes it’s android app!)
Our stand
being overtaken at the straight by a 400whp+ Opel, serious trackcar, one of the few that managed 🙂
in the middle of the long straight, the photographer had issues focusing with his fairly cheap DSLR
I ended up with not so white rims after a little while, was still several hours of trackdriving left!
Edit:
My thoughts, my experiences and all sorts of things regarding this build.
stick to a budget, stick to your plans, alter from them slightly, my ECU got changed to the better and Turbo was a bit bigger, other than that all my plans from last summer was right on spot.
do not attempt things like this on a daily car and your ONLY car.
make plans according to your skill and knowledge about engines and everything surrounding it, if you don’t understand the concept, don’t attempt it.suspension is the easiest, most important mod of them all, after that you get to brakes.
There is tons of articles, but these key words are IMPORTANT, VERY VERY IMPORTANT, stiffness is not handling!Roll Centre.
Camber Gain.
Toe Gain.
Undampened weight vs dampened weight.Brakes, straight forward, keep weight low, again undampened weight.
as for engine, stick to injectors and fuel delivery and bottom end, those are easy, save the head for later as it’s more complex
the build have been very easy so far, and I will come with details on the future build, and the final edition of this car, a lot of the same parts will be used, OEM spec as much as possible( stealing from other model cars and alike),
and a whole lot of neat ECU technology will be installed.
but for now it’s just to drive and drive this beast, it’s so trustworthy now it’s going to be good to do anything else than just fill up some oil 🙂last photo 🙂
So now to winters activity. (get a cup of coffee :cheer: )
If you look closely on the photo you can see my hood is all messed up..
YES it did go over my windscreen and also messed up my roof.So all the bodywork will have a go over, and it will be resprayed, in the same color!
All the parts on the underside that I have a oven to fit will be powder coated.
Engine Bay will get a cleanup and respray.The respray is actually half of the winters budget, meaning everything below isn’t as expensive as it sounds 🙂
Engine:
SR20VET will be the new engine designation.
SR20VE Head from a P12 Japaneese Primera ((These heads are RARE, and the best you can get for the SR engine)
The head also got something like the v-tec for honda’s, doesn’t sound as catchy, Neo-VVL kicked in yo!
20VE head Port job)
New inlet Manifold (greddy style, lower end from the S14 one I have now, welded flange to fit new head)
New Exhaust Manifold for twinscroll turbo, will be made inhouse in stainless steel.
4x Exhaust gas temperature sensors for each cylinder.
Backpressure sensors for exhaust
Completely new wiring for engine, fuse and relay box in the engine bay will be replaced..
New Turbine Housing from garret, T3 Pulsesplit(twinscroll) with 3″ V-Band outlet.
New downpipe to fit new turbine housing
New AC PS pump and alternator (from donor sr20ve engine)
SR20VE Pickup
SR20VE Oilpump.Bottom end, completely the same as before. total cost is about 2grand (USD) for all of the engine work including turbine housing.
A-lot of details on the headwork is covered by MotoIQ.
Differences is that I will get Oil pressure for VVL from a different place, I will use relocation plates, I will also have a dual solenoid setup for individual intake/exhaust cam switch.
Link here!:
MotoIQ LSR 240SX SR15VET head swapI bought a full engine like this one:
Bought from a Swede in Thailand that deals engines to Scandinavia for a decent price.
I’ve already sold the 6sp LSD Gearbox.TwinScroll housing with the new external wastegate, Compgate 40 from Turbosmart, housing is T3 Divided V band out .82 AR
Some of the wiring and temperature sensors I’m going to install, 4x EGT K type sensors 0-1600 C and 4x K type sensors for Misc (-40 – 600C) as well as all the wiring for the engine, ecu and all sensors
last photo 🙂
So now to winters activity. (get a cup of coffee :cheer: )
If you look closely on the photo you can see my hood is all messed up..
YES it did go over my windscreen and also messed up my roof.So all the bodywork will have a go over, and it will be resprayed, in the same color!
All the parts on the underside that I have a oven to fit will be powder coated.
Engine Bay will get a cleanup and respray.The respray is actually half of the winters budget, meaning everything below isn’t as expensive as it sounds 🙂
Engine:
SR20VET will be the new engine designation.
SR20VE Head from a P12 Japaneese Primera ((These heads are RARE, and the best you can get for the SR engine)
The head also got something like the v-tec for honda’s, doesn’t sound as catchy, Neo-VVL kicked in yo!
20VE head Port job)
New inlet Manifold (greddy style, lower end from the S14 one I have now, welded flange to fit new head)
New Exhaust Manifold for twinscroll turbo, will be made inhouse in stainless steel.
4x Exhaust gas temperature sensors for each cylinder.
Backpressure sensors for exhaust
Completely new wiring for engine, fuse and relay box in the engine bay will be replaced..
New Turbine Housing from garret, T3 Pulsesplit(twinscroll) with 3″ V-Band outlet.
New downpipe to fit new turbine housing
New AC PS pump and alternator (from donor sr20ve engine)
SR20VE Pickup
SR20VE Oilpump.Bottom end, completely the same as before. total cost is about 2grand (USD) for all of the engine work including turbine housing.
A-lot of details on the headwork is covered by MotoIQ.
Differences is that I will get Oil pressure for VVL from a different place, I will use relocation plates, I will also have a dual solenoid setup for individual intake/exhaust cam switch.
Link here!:
MotoIQ LSR 240SX SR15VET head swapI bought a full engine like this one:
Bought from a Swede in Thailand that deals engines to Scandinavia for a decent price.
I’ve already sold the 6sp LSD Gearbox.TwinScroll housing with the new external wastegate, Compgate 40 from Turbosmart, housing is T3 Divided V band out .82 AR
Some of the wiring and temperature sensors I’m going to install, 4x EGT K type sensors 0-1600 C and 4x K type sensors for Misc (-40 – 600C) as well as all the wiring for the engine, ecu and all sensors
drove this saturday at track.
Inboard video, running smooth boost
Youtube LinkRan like a champ, boiled the brakes the 2nd heat, this is the 9th heat or so..
Also, lately I’ve been busy making a new garage.
Photo quality is a bit bad(phone..), but the garage is 100% budget built, free stuff everywhere, lamps, fusebox, paint, materials for doors and gates are all free or very very low cost 🙂
Naturally, what is a fridge without a few turbo’s ? (all working too!, middle one did 550 whp on a volo 2.6 L 8V)
I’ve taken 1/3rd of the engine bay apart, so I’m soon ready for head swap 😀
drove this saturday at track.
Inboard video, running smooth boost
Youtube LinkRan like a champ, boiled the brakes the 2nd heat, this is the 9th heat or so..
Also, lately I’ve been busy making a new garage.
Photo quality is a bit bad(phone..), but the garage is 100% budget built, free stuff everywhere, lamps, fusebox, paint, materials for doors and gates are all free or very very low cost 🙂Naturally, what is a fridge without a few turbo’s ? (all working too!, middle one did 550 whp on a volo 2.6 L 8V)
I’ve taken 1/3rd of the engine bay apart, so I’m soon ready for head swap 😀
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