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I own a 200SX S14A, had it for 2 years, so much have happened since then, but it’s gonna be a spirited everyday car, meaning not backbreaking stiffness, but it’s also gonna be really quick, powerful and reliable.
No shortcuts 🙂This is some of what have been done
Interior
Recaro Reclining Sports Seats in the front – Leather Alcantara.
200SX Lockwood Scuffplates
Birba Guages with Chrome rings.
New Gear gaiter leather
Guages.Engine:
MaxxEcu engine management/datalogger.
Bored to 86.5 vs 86 stock
JE 9:0 Compression pistons.
Eagle H conrods STD stroke.
Machined head, ported, stock cams, lighter valves, stock lift.
Ported Inlet Manifold
Stock crankshaft, balanced.
Greddy style wing Oil pan.
Metal head gasket 1.1 mm
Uprated ARP Head studs. std dowel.
H-Dev V2 Turbo Tubular Manifold.
Apex Performance Elbow.
K&N oil filter
No name 3″ downpipe for S14 modified with stainless flex for S14A
3″ -> 4″ racecat
Dual 3″ exhaust from cat and back
ACT 6 Puck spring clutch. 460 lb/ft.
Custom Water to Air intercooler.
Denso IK24 Sparks
Walboro 255 LPH Fuel Pump
Electric Fan( dual 11″) with Controller.
Autoguage Smoked boost guage.
Sandwich oil adapter for sensors.
Oil filter relocator.
19 Row Oil cooler for Engine Oil.
Driftworks Aluminium Radiator.
Injector Dynamics 1000CC Injectors
Mazworx Fuel Rail
Garett GT3071R Turbocharger.Suspension n brakes.
Tein Upper pillow ball adjustable camber plates for coilovers front.
KW coilover variant 3 inox-line
Nismo Tower strut brace.
Driftworks Subframe locking collars
Driftworks Tension Rods
Driftworks Toe rods
Driftworks Traction Rods
Driftworks Camber Arms
Megan Racing Front Tension Rod Support Bar
Megan Racing Rear Subframe Brace.
EBC Yellowstuff Pads in the front
Feredo ST Pads in the rear.
R34 GTT front Brake Calipers.
310 MM EBC Diamond Black Rotors
Uprated Hardrace Subframe Bushings
Uprated Hardrace Gearbox mount
Uprated Hardrace Engine mount
Uprated Rubber subframe bushings.
Uprated rubber Lower control arm bushing. Front and Rear.
Megan Racing Roll Centre Adjusters (Lower ball bearings, adjustable)
Megan Racing Bump steer Correctors (Tie rod ends, adjustable height)
Dodge RAM Power steering coolerCar itself:
Engine compartment as I recieved it:
White face dials and chrome rings to make it look sportier.
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Replies
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I LOVE your build, awesome work done so far, keep it up !
I envy you “garage-owning” folks, I haven`t got my car yet (still putting money aside, see my signature), but when I do… I don’t have a garage to work on it 🙁 I hope I’ll find one to hire or something, I can do a lot of things myself, rather than paying someone to do them.
Response is paid with more material :), as it’s a reminder, this is kind of my own worklog too, but I see there is quite a few reads, but little questioning of my work and response, just go ahead guys 🙂
if there is a better way to do stuff fire away! 😀So what have I been up to ?
I’ve done some more rust repair and some bad welding, this time by me 🙂The tool is bad, no gas so it’s a flux core, it looks hooorible but it does the job, as long as it sticks, you make it tight afterwards it’s just good 🙂
also the oil cooler have found it’s way in, with relocator, high flow thermostat from Mocal, and some braided hoses with AN connections, and some hydraulic connections rated at 340 BAR! or 5220 PSI for those who use that.
those hoses were a pain to work with, but they went in so no issues there 🙂Relocator was a tight fit as there was 4 big hoses into the whole assembly, oil pressure sensor and oil temp.
Let’s go ahead with the photos 🙂
these hydraulic hoses I mentioned with oil cooler in the front.
Relocator, Oil thermostat, oil filter, oil temperature reader and oil pressure reader in that assembly there 🙂
Some welding, shows the extent of rust damages, there was some spots here n there, I ran out of battery on my phone unfortunately.
but the result ended up as this:
Yeah, there is a few things I’ve forgotten to mention as my work required a lot of time, and I just had to sort out my turbo studs issue and clutch and few essentials.
I did clutch, ACT clutch this time, I upgraded the release bearing, I made new exhaust brackets for the downpipe to engine pre flexpipe, then another in the gearbox mount to cat after flex pipe.
I replaced the studs and that was sorted, I did the inspection for approval of suspension modifications and awaiting results for wedensday.
I got the TUV papers for most and tested in a chassis dyno corner weighted and done the numbers, not adjusted on them cause that cost a-lot.
It’s not far off factory numbers or KW’s required specs so should not be a issue.We have to approve this modifications, our goverment does not like modded cars, therefore I got as little fancy bling bling in my engine bay and exterior, and I love the OEM look of things too 🙂
Response is paid with more material :), as it’s a reminder, this is kind of my own worklog too, but I see there is quite a few reads, but little questioning of my work and response, just go ahead guys 🙂
if there is a better way to do stuff fire away! 😀So what have I been up to ?
I’ve done some more rust repair and some bad welding, this time by me 🙂The tool is bad, no gas so it’s a flux core, it looks hooorible but it does the job, as long as it sticks, you make it tight afterwards it’s just good 🙂
also the oil cooler have found it’s way in, with relocator, high flow thermostat from Mocal, and some braided hoses with AN connections, and some hydraulic connections rated at 340 BAR! or 5220 PSI for those who use that.
those hoses were a pain to work with, but they went in so no issues there 🙂Relocator was a tight fit as there was 4 big hoses into the whole assembly, oil pressure sensor and oil temp.
Let’s go ahead with the photos 🙂
these hydraulic hoses I mentioned with oil cooler in the front.
Relocator, Oil thermostat, oil filter, oil temperature reader and oil pressure reader in that assembly there 🙂
Some welding, shows the extent of rust damages, there was some spots here n there, I ran out of battery on my phone unfortunately.
but the result ended up as this:
Yeah, there is a few things I’ve forgotten to mention as my work required a lot of time, and I just had to sort out my turbo studs issue and clutch and few essentials.
I did clutch, ACT clutch this time, I upgraded the release bearing, I made new exhaust brackets for the downpipe to engine pre flexpipe, then another in the gearbox mount to cat after flex pipe.
I replaced the studs and that was sorted, I did the inspection for approval of suspension modifications and awaiting results for wedensday.
I got the TUV papers for most and tested in a chassis dyno corner weighted and done the numbers, not adjusted on them cause that cost a-lot.
It’s not far off factory numbers or KW’s required specs so should not be a issue.We have to approve this modifications, our goverment does not like modded cars, therefore I got as little fancy bling bling in my engine bay and exterior, and I love the OEM look of things too 🙂
[quote=”road2perfection” post=69169]
We have to approve this modifications, our goverment does not like modded cars[/quote]Same here… but then again, the gov doesn’t need to know 👿
[quote=”road2perfection” post=69169]
We have to approve this modifications, our goverment does not like modded cars[/quote]Same here… but then again, the gov doesn’t need to know 👿
I just recently bought a 240SX S14 which I plan to turn it into a proper drift car. I had to travel over 300 miles to get it. Same car as you except mine has the piece of shit KA24DE engine. Not that bad actually but I would love to have something like an SR20 or maybe even an RB engine but here in the states, finding these engines are near impossible. So I’ma try to make the most out of my strong little KA24. This is has been an amazing build so far and I can’t wait to see more. Your thread has been going on for a while now. Just proves that there is no such thing as being finished while building your car.
I just recently bought a 240SX S14 which I plan to turn it into a proper drift car. I had to travel over 300 miles to get it. Same car as you except mine has the piece of shit KA24DE engine. Not that bad actually but I would love to have something like an SR20 or maybe even an RB engine but here in the states, finding these engines are near impossible. So I’ma try to make the most out of my strong little KA24. This is has been an amazing build so far and I can’t wait to see more. Your thread has been going on for a while now. Just proves that there is no such thing as being finished while building your car.
[quote=”NissanMaxx” post=69392]I just recently bought a 240SX S14 which I plan to turn it into a proper drift car. I had to travel over 300 miles to get it. Same car as you except mine has the piece of shit KA24DE engine. Not that bad actually but I would love to have something like an SR20 or maybe even an RB engine but here in the states, finding these engines are near impossible. So I’ma try to make the most out of my strong little KA24. This is has been an amazing build so far and I can’t wait to see more. Your thread has been going on for a while now. Just proves that there is no such thing as being finished while building your car.[/quote]
My thread will go on for a long while, the rust and suspension was the most important ones, finding out it’s strenghts, weaknesses, parts and so on.
SR20det’s are easy to come by, mazworks can actually build one for you if you want top of the line, you can also import it as a crate engine, some states may fail you on smog, get a EU dual cat system if so 😉 (if you go for the solution ;P)Anyways, a little update!
New calipers from the skyline R34 GTT, 30mm bigger rotors.
also powder coating them, so thats why they’ve been sanded a-lot!Closing into winter here, so it’ll be in the proper workshop this winter for much work! been having fun on tracks all summer, and the old engine still holds up, the oil cooler was required, went up to 100C oil temperature quite often, the straights at full power actually cooled it 🙂 will bring up the activity in a few months.
*** Update ***
Took this photo for illustrative purposes, been a lot at work lately so haven’t had time to do much small stuff apart from painting one caliper.
enjoy! 🙂
[quote=”NissanMaxx” post=69392]I just recently bought a 240SX S14 which I plan to turn it into a proper drift car. I had to travel over 300 miles to get it. Same car as you except mine has the piece of shit KA24DE engine. Not that bad actually but I would love to have something like an SR20 or maybe even an RB engine but here in the states, finding these engines are near impossible. So I’ma try to make the most out of my strong little KA24. This is has been an amazing build so far and I can’t wait to see more. Your thread has been going on for a while now. Just proves that there is no such thing as being finished while building your car.[/quote]
My thread will go on for a long while, the rust and suspension was the most important ones, finding out it’s strenghts, weaknesses, parts and so on.
SR20det’s are easy to come by, mazworks can actually build one for you if you want top of the line, you can also import it as a crate engine, some states may fail you on smog, get a EU dual cat system if so 😉 (if you go for the solution ;P)Anyways, a little update!
New calipers from the skyline R34 GTT, 30mm bigger rotors.
also powder coating them, so thats why they’ve been sanded a-lot!Closing into winter here, so it’ll be in the proper workshop this winter for much work! been having fun on tracks all summer, and the old engine still holds up, the oil cooler was required, went up to 100C oil temperature quite often, the straights at full power actually cooled it 🙂 will bring up the activity in a few months.
*** Update ***
Took this photo for illustrative purposes, been a lot at work lately so haven’t had time to do much small stuff apart from painting one caliper.
enjoy! 🙂
Any updates? Looks like a very solid build. Good work on the rust prevention/ restoration. How do you like the KW coils?
Any updates? Looks like a very solid build. Good work on the rust prevention/ restoration. How do you like the KW coils?
[quote=”SLow182″ post=75279]Any updates? Looks like a very solid build. Good work on the rust prevention/ restoration. How do you like the KW coils?[/quote]
KW coils are amazing, they can take a beating!.
I have gone sideways jumping sometimes.. hehe.. they are holding up really well, I drive the car really hard but don’t take any chances with crashing.
I trust the KW’s a-lot, and they are very comfy while being stiff 🙂Updates will come in numbers this winter as we’ve just cleared the garage yesterday, painting it and purchased new equipment, powder coating, new TIG welder and more so will paint the engine bay, engine and everything this winter 🙂
[quote=”SLow182″ post=75279]Any updates? Looks like a very solid build. Good work on the rust prevention/ restoration. How do you like the KW coils?[/quote]
KW coils are amazing, they can take a beating!.
I have gone sideways jumping sometimes.. hehe.. they are holding up really well, I drive the car really hard but don’t take any chances with crashing.
I trust the KW’s a-lot, and they are very comfy while being stiff 🙂Updates will come in numbers this winter as we’ve just cleared the garage yesterday, painting it and purchased new equipment, powder coating, new TIG welder and more so will paint the engine bay, engine and everything this winter 🙂
Finally a little update here 🙂
It’s in the garage, it’s getting torn to pieces for a solid buildup.
Here’s me in a nice working position ;P
To discover a nice and clean engine on the inside, keep in mind it’s a very high milage for a tuned car/engine and this being first time it’s opened! 🙂
and more stripping!
Need to remove turbo, bonnit, powersteering/ac pumps and gearbox and just lift it out now.
I’ll update regularly throughout the winter!
EDIT:
Next day, removed turbo and unbolted the gearbox but haven’t removed it yet, so progress have been made 🙂
Hopefully this weekend the engine will be lifted out 🙂Finally a little update here 🙂
It’s in the garage, it’s getting torn to pieces for a solid buildup.
Here’s me in a nice working position ;P
To discover a nice and clean engine on the inside, keep in mind it’s a very high milage for a tuned car/engine and this being first time it’s opened! 🙂
and more stripping!
Need to remove turbo, bonnit, powersteering/ac pumps and gearbox and just lift it out now.
I’ll update regularly throughout the winter!
EDIT:
Next day, removed turbo and unbolted the gearbox but haven’t removed it yet, so progress have been made 🙂
Hopefully this weekend the engine will be lifted out 🙂
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