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Topic
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I own a 200SX S14A, had it for 2 years, so much have happened since then, but it’s gonna be a spirited everyday car, meaning not backbreaking stiffness, but it’s also gonna be really quick, powerful and reliable.
No shortcuts 🙂This is some of what have been done
Interior
Recaro Reclining Sports Seats in the front – Leather Alcantara.
200SX Lockwood Scuffplates
Birba Guages with Chrome rings.
New Gear gaiter leather
Guages.Engine:
MaxxEcu engine management/datalogger.
Bored to 86.5 vs 86 stock
JE 9:0 Compression pistons.
Eagle H conrods STD stroke.
Machined head, ported, stock cams, lighter valves, stock lift.
Ported Inlet Manifold
Stock crankshaft, balanced.
Greddy style wing Oil pan.
Metal head gasket 1.1 mm
Uprated ARP Head studs. std dowel.
H-Dev V2 Turbo Tubular Manifold.
Apex Performance Elbow.
K&N oil filter
No name 3″ downpipe for S14 modified with stainless flex for S14A
3″ -> 4″ racecat
Dual 3″ exhaust from cat and back
ACT 6 Puck spring clutch. 460 lb/ft.
Custom Water to Air intercooler.
Denso IK24 Sparks
Walboro 255 LPH Fuel Pump
Electric Fan( dual 11″) with Controller.
Autoguage Smoked boost guage.
Sandwich oil adapter for sensors.
Oil filter relocator.
19 Row Oil cooler for Engine Oil.
Driftworks Aluminium Radiator.
Injector Dynamics 1000CC Injectors
Mazworx Fuel Rail
Garett GT3071R Turbocharger.Suspension n brakes.
Tein Upper pillow ball adjustable camber plates for coilovers front.
KW coilover variant 3 inox-line
Nismo Tower strut brace.
Driftworks Subframe locking collars
Driftworks Tension Rods
Driftworks Toe rods
Driftworks Traction Rods
Driftworks Camber Arms
Megan Racing Front Tension Rod Support Bar
Megan Racing Rear Subframe Brace.
EBC Yellowstuff Pads in the front
Feredo ST Pads in the rear.
R34 GTT front Brake Calipers.
310 MM EBC Diamond Black Rotors
Uprated Hardrace Subframe Bushings
Uprated Hardrace Gearbox mount
Uprated Hardrace Engine mount
Uprated Rubber subframe bushings.
Uprated rubber Lower control arm bushing. Front and Rear.
Megan Racing Roll Centre Adjusters (Lower ball bearings, adjustable)
Megan Racing Bump steer Correctors (Tie rod ends, adjustable height)
Dodge RAM Power steering coolerCar itself:
Engine compartment as I recieved it:
White face dials and chrome rings to make it look sportier.
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Replies
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As i’m waiting for a session of approval of my suspension setup and then MOT/Smog test I’ll be patiently waiting to drop in my engine.
In the meantime I’m doing some rust prevention and removal, the wall between the front wheel and engine compartment (lower section) had cracks in the stock sealant and rust had appeared cause of that, quite a lot if you ask me, but considering it’s one of the few places on my car there is rust at all I’m rather happy, and can’t really say there is much rust..
I’ll start with a pic of the state of things under my car.
Isn’t too shabby, a bit shakycam but it looks rather good, will paint the whole underside, any rust little or much will get full treatment.
Now for the bad part!
There is obviously quite alot to do there.
The process is simple.
Probe places with screwdriver, rust or loose paint, remove , if you make a hole don’t worry, carefully peel away more that’s absolutely worthless, find out when the metal turns more solid to later re-evaluate the state of the “semi solid” metal.
Apply rust removal acid.
it turns to more like a swiss cheese at this point, apply rust converter.
re-evaluate all the rust areas.
You find out that the converter works really well, but some rust cannot be converted, but you can now usually apply some more pressure and see how it is 🙂Once that is done, sand, clean, apply metal filler that gets rock solid, quality wares here if you need to fill holes and such.
to smoothen the surface I usually do a thin layer of primer ontop of the filler to easier spot it, if not everything is really just grey and is hard to judge for me..
I filled in more filler after this photo, but it shows some of it 🙂I’ve done this several times, and it works for the most part rather well, sometimes i havent been rough enough with rust removal, I guess i’m too careful…
I’ll update with the finished product soon 😀
As i’m waiting for a session of approval of my suspension setup and then MOT/Smog test I’ll be patiently waiting to drop in my engine.
In the meantime I’m doing some rust prevention and removal, the wall between the front wheel and engine compartment (lower section) had cracks in the stock sealant and rust had appeared cause of that, quite a lot if you ask me, but considering it’s one of the few places on my car there is rust at all I’m rather happy, and can’t really say there is much rust..
I’ll start with a pic of the state of things under my car.
Isn’t too shabby, a bit shakycam but it looks rather good, will paint the whole underside, any rust little or much will get full treatment.
Now for the bad part!
There is obviously quite alot to do there.
The process is simple.
Probe places with screwdriver, rust or loose paint, remove , if you make a hole don’t worry, carefully peel away more that’s absolutely worthless, find out when the metal turns more solid to later re-evaluate the state of the “semi solid” metal.
Apply rust removal acid.
it turns to more like a swiss cheese at this point, apply rust converter.
re-evaluate all the rust areas.
You find out that the converter works really well, but some rust cannot be converted, but you can now usually apply some more pressure and see how it is 🙂Once that is done, sand, clean, apply metal filler that gets rock solid, quality wares here if you need to fill holes and such.
to smoothen the surface I usually do a thin layer of primer ontop of the filler to easier spot it, if not everything is really just grey and is hard to judge for me..
I filled in more filler after this photo, but it shows some of it 🙂I’ve done this several times, and it works for the most part rather well, sometimes i havent been rough enough with rust removal, I guess i’m too careful…
I’ll update with the finished product soon 😀
More updates, I was a bit down after finding more serious rust, however!.
it’s close to being fixed.
And just so I’ve said it, I ain’t a mechanic, I work with IT and don’t really have any proper garage or shop to do everything in.
It’s 100% DIY! stuff 🙂One side had the “channel” fixed before, and bad mechanic work made it rust out soo bad..
But lets get to the finished product up front, I took out the turbo welded behind, high strength bogish thing on the outside..
You can bang it with a hammer without much happening to it 😉It ended up looking like this:
The repair job done previously.
What it looked like inside..
Some grinding and such:
Up for some welding at Fronius, Yes it’s inside their shop, not workshop but the actual store! 😀
Great selection of welding machines!
MIG Welding in progress:
Other fixes:
We also welded the flexpipe on the downpipe
I also inserted more noise reduction things in my exhaust, 3 Disc insert.
Pretty awesome sound now, just have to sort out some gaskets that have some very slight leaks, but needs to be fixed for that clean crisp sound 🙂
More things:
Bought new bushes for lower control arms, Differential and subframe.
Bought new engine mounts and gearbox mount.
Bought ARP cam Cap studs and nuts, final piece before compression test 🙂
Bought 2 tires for the rear, same as front. Toyo T1 Sport 225/45/ZR17, Will get 245-255 rear once i have the money 🙂More updates, decided not a new post as there will be alot of them…
The welded plate
Bog
Done
PRocess in long desc start to fin.
screw driver, investigate the car, find rust, holes appear, dremel, make a 2×2 inch hole, investigate on the inside the amount, large, cut cut till you have the worst out.
rust eating acids, clean and power drill having steel brush, clean, rust converter, dremel cut the rest.
more rust converter, protect the insides, weld on new plate, have a hole you can stuff protective products into.
shut it, grind down the welds a bit, anti corrosive primer. bog, smoothen the surface, paint on some chassis paint.Easy fix 🙂
nothing is above the side skirt so it doesn’t need to be show finish of the work.
As long as it doesn’t rust it’s good 🙂More updates, I was a bit down after finding more serious rust, however!.
it’s close to being fixed.
And just so I’ve said it, I ain’t a mechanic, I work with IT and don’t really have any proper garage or shop to do everything in.
It’s 100% DIY! stuff 🙂One side had the “channel” fixed before, and bad mechanic work made it rust out soo bad..
But lets get to the finished product up front, I took out the turbo welded behind, high strength bogish thing on the outside..
You can bang it with a hammer without much happening to it 😉It ended up looking like this:
The repair job done previously.
What it looked like inside..
Some grinding and such:
Up for some welding at Fronius, Yes it’s inside their shop, not workshop but the actual store! 😀
Great selection of welding machines!
MIG Welding in progress:
Other fixes:
We also welded the flexpipe on the downpipe
I also inserted more noise reduction things in my exhaust, 3 Disc insert.
Pretty awesome sound now, just have to sort out some gaskets that have some very slight leaks, but needs to be fixed for that clean crisp sound 🙂
More things:
Bought new bushes for lower control arms, Differential and subframe.
Bought new engine mounts and gearbox mount.
Bought ARP cam Cap studs and nuts, final piece before compression test 🙂
Bought 2 tires for the rear, same as front. Toyo T1 Sport 225/45/ZR17, Will get 245-255 rear once i have the money 🙂More updates, decided not a new post as there will be alot of them…
The welded plate
Bog
Done
PRocess in long desc start to fin.
screw driver, investigate the car, find rust, holes appear, dremel, make a 2×2 inch hole, investigate on the inside the amount, large, cut cut till you have the worst out.
rust eating acids, clean and power drill having steel brush, clean, rust converter, dremel cut the rest.
more rust converter, protect the insides, weld on new plate, have a hole you can stuff protective products into.
shut it, grind down the welds a bit, anti corrosive primer. bog, smoothen the surface, paint on some chassis paint.Easy fix 🙂
nothing is above the side skirt so it doesn’t need to be show finish of the work.
As long as it doesn’t rust it’s good 🙂Yet another update, it’s starting to wrap up now 🙂
Still require to put in the new engine, just a few bolts n nuts missing for the new engine unfortunately.
1.5 weeks ago my clutch died a horrible death, I think going over 250 WHP made it suffer too much, so what better to do when I’m patiently waiting for a new clutch?
Build more! and Plan!So I removed the subframe and differential oil cooler, I grinded it under and removed the rust, retreated with anticorrosion primer ,then oil based paint with underseal above that again.
It means it’s sealed properly.
I replaced seals in the oil pump for the differential cooler, made it like new, I replaced subframe bushings and exhaust hanger to a new one that’s not like jelly because of the age.Plans ahead is obviously getting the new engine in, new turbo and injectors as well as a map.
Bigger rear tires, 245/40/R17 should be good instead of 225.
To improve response and reduce turbo lagg I’ll go for a water to air intercooler, while many say it’s bad for street use.. I will be laughing and ask where they learned it, drawbacks is only two:
Possibility for leaks, and weight, but better response and increased engine and inlet temperatures due to better airflow for the engine radiator and inlet temp being the same or better will make it more reliable.
I will detail that process as it’s not common, there is hardly a kit for it, but it should be very easy .In the meantime, here’s a progress report of my rear end, I’ve gotten the subframe and everything back in place now, but It’s nice and undersealed, and you can see the differential oil cooler which is rather rare, but the car does have a VLSD that’s worth protecting, and it’s operation is greatly improved with correct temperature, as the oil cause the locking effect 🙂
Yet another update, it’s starting to wrap up now 🙂
Still require to put in the new engine, just a few bolts n nuts missing for the new engine unfortunately.
1.5 weeks ago my clutch died a horrible death, I think going over 250 WHP made it suffer too much, so what better to do when I’m patiently waiting for a new clutch?
Build more! and Plan!So I removed the subframe and differential oil cooler, I grinded it under and removed the rust, retreated with anticorrosion primer ,then oil based paint with underseal above that again.
It means it’s sealed properly.
I replaced seals in the oil pump for the differential cooler, made it like new, I replaced subframe bushings and exhaust hanger to a new one that’s not like jelly because of the age.Plans ahead is obviously getting the new engine in, new turbo and injectors as well as a map.
Bigger rear tires, 245/40/R17 should be good instead of 225.
To improve response and reduce turbo lagg I’ll go for a water to air intercooler, while many say it’s bad for street use.. I will be laughing and ask where they learned it, drawbacks is only two:
Possibility for leaks, and weight, but better response and increased engine and inlet temperatures due to better airflow for the engine radiator and inlet temp being the same or better will make it more reliable.
I will detail that process as it’s not common, there is hardly a kit for it, but it should be very easy .In the meantime, here’s a progress report of my rear end, I’ve gotten the subframe and everything back in place now, but It’s nice and undersealed, and you can see the differential oil cooler which is rather rare, but the car does have a VLSD that’s worth protecting, and it’s operation is greatly improved with correct temperature, as the oil cause the locking effect 🙂
Been busy with other things.. and since I know the S14 in and out my buddy in UK wasn’t slow to put me to work one of the days I was over there..
So done a complete rear end bushing fix in 3 countries now, woohoo!
Made a little engine cover for him for his birthday too.
Gotten home so now:
ordered more parts, subframe is in, just need to replace some lower control arm bushings in front and rear, then I can start replacing the anti roll bars, I have some issues with understeer so I will have to soften up the front slightly, run harder ARB in the rear to make it have a more oversteering nature (didn’t expect to hear that from a guy with this chassis eh? )
ride height is about as low as I can get it without having too bad toe/camber gain.Notice Lower control arm being straight, if it points upwards you’ve lowered too much, fabricate or buy new knuckles, Wisefab, Driftworks/geomaster for most nissan/toyota/bmw
other notes are water to air IC is getting along, purchased some parts, just tinkering with placements and such, will need to improve cooling a lot as i’m not satisfied with temps at the moment, no oil/water temp rise too high though..
and it passed emissions, and MOT 😀
Been busy with other things.. and since I know the S14 in and out my buddy in UK wasn’t slow to put me to work one of the days I was over there..
So done a complete rear end bushing fix in 3 countries now, woohoo!
Made a little engine cover for him for his birthday too.Gotten home so now:
ordered more parts, subframe is in, just need to replace some lower control arm bushings in front and rear, then I can start replacing the anti roll bars, I have some issues with understeer so I will have to soften up the front slightly, run harder ARB in the rear to make it have a more oversteering nature (didn’t expect to hear that from a guy with this chassis eh? )
ride height is about as low as I can get it without having too bad toe/camber gain.Notice Lower control arm being straight, if it points upwards you’ve lowered too much, fabricate or buy new knuckles, Wisefab, Driftworks/geomaster for most nissan/toyota/bmw
other notes are water to air IC is getting along, purchased some parts, just tinkering with placements and such, will need to improve cooling a lot as i’m not satisfied with temps at the moment, no oil/water temp rise too high though..
and it passed emissions, and MOT 😀
I’m getting tired of this game… Turbo to manifold bolts and nuts …
Snapped right off!, so I’ll do that, cause the car is LHD and made as a RHD it’s all very tricky! nothing is ment to be there, have the MBR and Steering rack that makes it very very tight fit… , and I got more parts for my oil cooler and water to air IC!
looks like i’m gonna be busy again 🙂
the radiators for water to air IC is from a Honda CRF cross bike, pump is a bosch unit and the IC itself is from CXracing in US.
The water reservoir is from Works Engineering in UK.Also got new guages to match everything else (red illumination)
Boost, water temp, oil press, oil temp and wideband guages from Prosport (evo red/blue series – Locked in red mode.)loads of fun stuff to do, and one booring(turbo bolts..) I’ll come back with more, loads of custom stuff to do!
some mates from UK was over and my 200sx felt some abuse, a little video from a ride i offered later down, I also got a photo taken of it, absolutely love the photo although it was just a spur of the moment thing to do, he said just use the road, stop i’ll take a quick photo.
it is a road with traffic so he took 3 photos, none was good he said but I can’t say i’m dis-satisfied with the photo.
I love it! 😀
I’m getting tired of this game… Turbo to manifold bolts and nuts …
Snapped right off!, so I’ll do that, cause the car is LHD and made as a RHD it’s all very tricky! nothing is ment to be there, have the MBR and Steering rack that makes it very very tight fit… , and I got more parts for my oil cooler and water to air IC!
looks like i’m gonna be busy again 🙂the radiators for water to air IC is from a Honda CRF cross bike, pump is a bosch unit and the IC itself is from CXracing in US.
The water reservoir is from Works Engineering in UK.Also got new guages to match everything else (red illumination)
Boost, water temp, oil press, oil temp and wideband guages from Prosport (evo red/blue series – Locked in red mode.)loads of fun stuff to do, and one booring(turbo bolts..) I’ll come back with more, loads of custom stuff to do!
some mates from UK was over and my 200sx felt some abuse, a little video from a ride i offered later down, I also got a photo taken of it, absolutely love the photo although it was just a spur of the moment thing to do, he said just use the road, stop i’ll take a quick photo.
it is a road with traffic so he took 3 photos, none was good he said but I can’t say i’m dis-satisfied with the photo.
I love it! 😀
I LOVE your build, awesome work done so far, keep it up !
I envy you “garage-owning” folks, I haven`t got my car yet (still putting money aside, see my signature), but when I do… I don’t have a garage to work on it 🙁 I hope I’ll find one to hire or something, I can do a lot of things myself, rather than paying someone to do them.
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