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I own a 200SX S14A, had it for 2 years, so much have happened since then, but it’s gonna be a spirited everyday car, meaning not backbreaking stiffness, but it’s also gonna be really quick, powerful and reliable.
No shortcuts 🙂This is some of what have been done
Interior
Recaro Reclining Sports Seats in the front – Leather Alcantara.
200SX Lockwood Scuffplates
Birba Guages with Chrome rings.
New Gear gaiter leather
Guages.Engine:
MaxxEcu engine management/datalogger.
Bored to 86.5 vs 86 stock
JE 9:0 Compression pistons.
Eagle H conrods STD stroke.
Machined head, ported, stock cams, lighter valves, stock lift.
Ported Inlet Manifold
Stock crankshaft, balanced.
Greddy style wing Oil pan.
Metal head gasket 1.1 mm
Uprated ARP Head studs. std dowel.
H-Dev V2 Turbo Tubular Manifold.
Apex Performance Elbow.
K&N oil filter
No name 3″ downpipe for S14 modified with stainless flex for S14A
3″ -> 4″ racecat
Dual 3″ exhaust from cat and back
ACT 6 Puck spring clutch. 460 lb/ft.
Custom Water to Air intercooler.
Denso IK24 Sparks
Walboro 255 LPH Fuel Pump
Electric Fan( dual 11″) with Controller.
Autoguage Smoked boost guage.
Sandwich oil adapter for sensors.
Oil filter relocator.
19 Row Oil cooler for Engine Oil.
Driftworks Aluminium Radiator.
Injector Dynamics 1000CC Injectors
Mazworx Fuel Rail
Garett GT3071R Turbocharger.Suspension n brakes.
Tein Upper pillow ball adjustable camber plates for coilovers front.
KW coilover variant 3 inox-line
Nismo Tower strut brace.
Driftworks Subframe locking collars
Driftworks Tension Rods
Driftworks Toe rods
Driftworks Traction Rods
Driftworks Camber Arms
Megan Racing Front Tension Rod Support Bar
Megan Racing Rear Subframe Brace.
EBC Yellowstuff Pads in the front
Feredo ST Pads in the rear.
R34 GTT front Brake Calipers.
310 MM EBC Diamond Black Rotors
Uprated Hardrace Subframe Bushings
Uprated Hardrace Gearbox mount
Uprated Hardrace Engine mount
Uprated Rubber subframe bushings.
Uprated rubber Lower control arm bushing. Front and Rear.
Megan Racing Roll Centre Adjusters (Lower ball bearings, adjustable)
Megan Racing Bump steer Correctors (Tie rod ends, adjustable height)
Dodge RAM Power steering coolerCar itself:
Engine compartment as I recieved it:
White face dials and chrome rings to make it look sportier.
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It’s pretty much not a drift car, however it slides nicely with all the suspension upgrades it’s a awesome thing to drive, lacking some power, currently 250 WHP (true) but it’s 1280 kg heavy in it’s stock form, probably 1300 kg now :S_x000D_
_x000D_New engine in the making, old is still kicking, measured sub 6 seconds 0-62 with a engine in the trunk and one passenger..
Will still be SR20DET, but stroked to 2.2, ported, a few degrees on the cams, 240 degree to 252 to maintain driveability, turbine will be a small T28 ball bearing GT2860RS meaning response and reliability, as the internal parts will be enough for 650 WHP and i’ll be doing 350.
And all the photos that have been unfortunately lost 🙁
Some cosmetic things have been added
Some meeters:
Some suspension arms and collars:
Turbo header install, not all complete in this pic:
Start of the new engine 🙂
Very nice!. Can’t tell by the picture, but is it left hand drive?. Did you change the colour of our gage cluster to white?.
[quote=”peelman” post=31171]Very nice!. Can’t tell by the picture, but is it left hand drive?. Did you change the colour of our gage cluster to white?.[/quote]
its a LHD yes, imported from Switzerland to Norway two years ago, I’m pretty sure it’s a german Cold weather edition (heated seats, heated windows, extra heating etc) the manual is definately in german.
The Guage cluster was painted matt black (small change from stock, prettier nonetheless), then change dials to some italian white face. and chrome rings were added.
The guage cluster reads 20-300 kmh instead of 0-260 kmh and it’s not reading incorrectly 🙂Awesome Car. I have that same car in Europe(Portugal) except yours is much nicer than mine. I only use mine to have a car to drive when I visit but I’m thinking about turning it into a project car the next time I go. Have fun with your Nissan. :cheer:
Some updates.
Purchased new block with fly pistons and all, it’s recently been overhauled so it’s in very good condition.
other updates is arrival of radiator
it was brushed alu, I didn’t like that, painted!
Valve cover was messed up, wanted it to be pretty, cleaned inside and sanded outside.
Used engine paint, matt black and brake caliper paint hand painted on the letters.
And just like everything else, I do everything myself 🙂
Update 01.10.2012
Today I started cleaning the intake manifold, and they are now clean for any oil and dirt !
However I’ve not done anything technical to them as of yet, I started with the throttlebody.
I will keep the stock throttlebody cause other throttlebody’s that you get as a tuning part are usually just larger.
My build will be just 350 WHP max! internal parts will be easily able to do 600+! but I want response and reliability.
So the stock throttlebody will give be just that, response!The stock body is forged and haven’t been machined to remove edges and have a rough surface.
The butterfly plate also is angled at idle, I’ve decreased this angle slightly by making the whole thing slightly larger and increased the angle at full throttle from 85 degree angle to exact 90 degree, that will also move more air, less resistanse and since it’s small it will have velocity and that’s what you need for response.
So I’ve improved velocity and throughput without much cons, took some time though.
Update 06.10.2012
As my nick says, Perfection is my goal all the time.
Altenator is done, Starter is done if i havent said it, lower intake manifold done, upper plenum/manifold needs to get painted, fuelrail is getting fixed as we speak
Lets take a look on the altenator, finally a before and after photo!
The altenator was strange, cause you have to open the whole damn thing to get to the brushes, and I didn’t understand how these mitsu’s was fitted together untill i recieved a tip.
Drill and bore a hole in the brushes, gave sense to me quite quickly after a view on the assembly.On the bottom of the altenator there is a rubber grommit, take it out, on the bottom of the brush assembly there is a hole.
Pushing in the brushes then taking a bore and bore it so you get a tiny hole in them.Fit it together with the bottom cover, then push in the brushes and stick a needle or the bore you used in the back of it and it’ll hold the brushes in, I found very little info regarding this!
Altenator before rebuild
After
Today I started cleaning the intake manifold, and they are now clean for any oil and dirt ! 😀
However I’ve not done anything technical to them as of yet, I started with the throttlebody.
I will keep the stock throttlebody cause other throttlebody’s that you get as a tuning part are usually just larger.
My build will be just 350 WHP max! internal parts will be easily able to do 600+! but I want response and reliability.
So the stock throttlebody will give be just that, response!The stock body is forged and haven’t been machined to remove edges and have a rough surface.
The butterfly plate also is angled at idle, I’ve decreased this angle slightly by making the whole thing slightly larger and increased the angle at full throttle from 85 degree angle to exact 90 degree, that will also move more air, less resistanse and since it’s small it will have velocity and that’s what you need for response.
So I’ve improved velocity and throughput without much cons, took some time though.My progress on the inlet manifold.
It have been polished on the inside, outside have just been cleaned and painted.In progress, I used a hose bit and just big enough flexible grinder to run it all through 🙂 it’ll somewhat improve velocity and response.
And It’s pretty much done, Just a few bits left to do.
Weld the EGR valve inlet tight, attach some sensors, rewire the injector cable pack.
Got more fun stuff, the 1 out 3 parcels for the bottom end 🙂
My progress on the inlet manifold.
It have been polished on the inside, outside have just been cleaned and painted.In progress, I used a hose bit and just big enough flexible grinder to run it all through 🙂 it’ll somewhat improve velocity and response.
And It’s pretty much done, Just a few bits left to do.
Weld the EGR valve inlet tight, attach some sensors, rewire the injector cable pack.Got more fun stuff, the 1 out 3 parcels for the bottom end 🙂
Updates, there is so much going on.
Waterpump and Oil block is cleaned and restored, I’ll add more pictures to this post later on, but I’ve ordered alot, Complete coolant hose kit (red)
Gaskets, Bearings, and so on came in at 1100 bucks, which is the price of what i have so far the -emanage I got already to run the engine management.I’ve gotten some 9:0.. compression pistons from JE instead of stock 8:0.. compression that’s stock, it’s for 2 oversize bore (86.5 vs 86) and they are in forged aluminium, got the block sent for machining, and the head got started on today so I should recieve it soon hopefully.
Some eagle conrods were bought and I will use stock crankshaft as they are good to 1000whp with some balancing that is already done, with 350 whp this should last more than a decade! banana:Oil cooling will be a small 9? row in a company with the stock watercooled oil cooler to get the oil to heat up quicker and put less strain on the oil pump and get more steady temperatures.
The head will recieve new valves and springs but use stock cam to begin with.
I got a Greddy Wing oil pan that will prevent oil from going away from the oil sucker under acceleration and hard cornering.Shopping list!
Some parts arrived a week ago, the block, crankshaft, etc arrived a little later 🙂
Block with stock pistons just sitting there, with my cat that fancied laying next to the block for some reason.
More to come ofc!Updates, there is so much going on.
Waterpump and Oil block is cleaned and restored, I’ll add more pictures to this post later on, but I’ve ordered alot, Complete coolant hose kit (red)
Gaskets, Bearings, and so on came in at 1100 bucks, which is the price of what i have so far the -emanage I got already to run the engine management.I’ve gotten some 9:0.. compression pistons from JE instead of stock 8:0.. compression that’s stock, it’s for 2 oversize bore (86.5 vs 86) and they are in forged aluminium, got the block sent for machining, and the head got started on today so I should recieve it soon hopefully.
Some eagle conrods were bought and I will use stock crankshaft as they are good to 1000whp with some balancing that is already done, with 350 whp this should last more than a decade! banana:Oil cooling will be a small 9? row in a company with the stock watercooled oil cooler to get the oil to heat up quicker and put less strain on the oil pump and get more steady temperatures.
The head will recieve new valves and springs but use stock cam to begin with.
I got a Greddy Wing oil pan that will prevent oil from going away from the oil sucker under acceleration and hard cornering.Shopping list!
Some parts arrived a week ago, the block, crankshaft, etc arrived a little later 🙂
Block with stock pistons just sitting there, with my cat that fancied laying next to the block for some reason.
More to come ofc!
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