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I’m still trying to identify the cause of my coolant leak and overheating on my 2001 Grand Am. I made a video pointing out a few things so If someone can watch the video and give me any ideas it will be appreciated. I went to the store and back yesterday (about 8 mile round trip including climb up about 1,000 foot hill with fairly gradual grade). Had no issues yesterday but added water before going (didn’t have any coolant on hand). Today, made same trip and for the first time it went into the red zone almost at the top of the hill and had to pull over, let it cool and pour in water. Got to store, bought some coolant, took nearly the whole gallon but made it back home, still running hot but didn’t overheat. Although the return home is mostly downhill. Also, kept the heat on and blower on full but ONLY COOL AIR CAME OUT, NO HEAT AT ALL. So that might be a major clue. Thermostat was replace 6 months ago but I suppose it could still be bad and need replaced. I had a trustworthy mechanic do the head job (haha, no pun intended) on it and see no signs of another head gasket failure so don’t think that is the issue. I will replace the coolant tank cap and would like to do a pressure test but don’t have the tools right now and will need to catch a ride to the parts store (motorcycle is not tagged or insured right now). Any ideas based on this info and that I mentioned in the video?? As always thanks for any input!
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Thanks Leo. I was able to copy the link and it works but have right click it and do the search for option. Or i suppose could copy the link and paste it in the browser as well.
Another thing I forgot to mention as a clue. Over the last two days, when I start out driving from a cold start, I get only a couple miles up the road and the temp gauge quickly goes from cold to a little more than halfway instead of gradually going to that running temp over a course of several miles like it should. It goes from cold to half way in about a 10 second time period. I’ve never saw a car do that personally. And as I already mentioned, the heat blows cold air only. I thinking more that it may be a faulty thermostat even though it was supposedly changed 6 months ago when the head gasket was changed.
[quote=”RhinoBlu3″ post=59710]Thanks Leo. I was able to copy the link and it works but have right click it and do the search for option. Or i suppose could copy the link and paste it in the browser as well.[/quote]
To insert a Link click the Link icon. It is a icon that looks like a globe with a chain link it is above the emotes where Bold Italic and Underline is. It is to fist icon to the left of the eBay icon.
[quote=”RhinoBlu3″ post=59711]Another thing I forgot to mention as a clue. Over the last two days, when I start out driving from a cold start, I get only a couple miles up the road and the temp gauge quickly goes from cold to a little more than halfway instead of gradually going to that running temp over a course of several miles like it should. It goes from cold to half way in about a 10 second time period. I’ve never saw a car do that personally. And as I already mentioned, the heat blows cold air only. I thinking more that it may be a faulty thermostat even though it was supposedly changed 6 months ago when the head gasket was changed.[/quote]
It could be a faulty Temp gauge. I know the 90s cevys were common of no apparent overheating. It was a faulty gauge which actually made the engine over heat. Pontiacs are nitorious for gauge failures. All i can recommend is take the car to a shop they can determine the problem than you know what to fix.
EDIT: yes i know you have a 2001 but im pinpointing the temp gauge bases on 90s chevys.
When you started off cold, was your cooling system topped off? If so, in that short a time, like ten seconds, if I didn’t know better I’d think a possible bad sender unit in your temp gauge rather than a genuine overheat problem. The no heat with the temp gauge high just after starting out and running downhill might mean the engine was actually cool and the thermostat hadn’t opened yet (because it hadn’t reached operating temp, not because it’s bad).
If it’s not the sender and you’re really losing that much coolant and not seeing where it’s going, I’d suspect boil over and evaporation while the car is moving. Pressure testing the system is still the best place to start, testing the sender with a vom would also be helpful. Adding some cooling system cleaner and flushing the system probably isn’t a bad idea either and check for coolant leaking on the floor on the passenger side or out of the heater box and heater input and return hoses. That might tell you something also.
Keep in touch.
MarkMy humble opinion is that it is very possibly a bad thermostat. The least expensive test you could do yourself is to remove the thermostat do some test driving and observation. I’ve seen the hose pulsation your video showed in the past. Causes for that I’ve encountered range from stuck thermostat, to air in the system, to cracked cylinder heads so the condition is not definitive.
When you take the thermostat out you could put it into a pot of water on a stove, heat it up and using a temperature gauge see when it begins to open and also observe if it opens all the way.
I also had a rash of thermostats that were young in age just break apart for no reason within a rear after replacement, not China stats either, Gates brand, Stant brand were 2-I had trouble with. I went back to the dealer for parts in these cases and the problem did not repeat. Good luck and let us know how you make out!
I’m not working today but babysitting my almost 2 year-old granddaughter (Okay, so I am working really hard doing that, LoL.) But anyway, think I’m going to go later and buy a thermostat and a coolant tank cap, a couple gallons of antifreeze and go from there. Might rent a coolant system pressure gauge if not too expensive. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks guys for your suggestions! That’s why I love this web site and Eric’s videos.
FOLLOW-UP: So I replaced the thermostat and added two gallons of coolant. Also replaced the coolant tank cap (doesn’t have a radiator cap). Test drove it and worked OK but still ran a little hot (about 220 degrees – with 200 degrees being the mid-point and seems the “normal” level at running temp). Topped off the coolant tank today and let it idle for about 30 minutes. Stayed pretty much at mid-way on the cabin temp gauge (about 200 degrees) even with using both heat and A/C. Thermostat seems to kick on (open up) at about 180 degrees). Seems to be working OK as far as the coolant but will continue to test it over the next several days. From what I saw in the hoses leading to and from the radiator, likely needs a good radiator flush but will hold off until I can afford it. I’ll post updates as to how she performs! Thanks to all for the input!
If you haven’t run across this yet, there’s a cooling system flush kit from Prestone, costs less than $10.00 and available at most parts places. The kit comes with all the parts you’d need to flush it, including fittings, hose adapter, and hose clamps along with an explanation of flushing options. I say this since it’s less than the cost of a gallon of anti freeze.
Sounds like everything else though is running straight and normal. Nice going!
Yeah, and keep us informed.[quote=”Sparks4184″ post=60262]If you haven’t run across this yet, there’s a cooling system flush kit from Prestone, costs less than $10.00 and available at most parts places. The kit comes with all the parts you’d need to flush it, including fittings, hose adapter, and hose clamps along with an explanation of flushing options. I say this since it’s less than the cost of a gallon of anti freeze.
Sounds like everything else though is running straight and normal. Nice going!
Yeah, and keep us informed.[/quote]Thanks! I’ll check out the Prestone kit when I get a chance this week.
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