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I drive a 1994 Nissan Sentra 1.6
My coolant system had been leaking coolant for the past 3 weeks. I’ve been putting plain water in it until I had saved up the money to properly diagnose and fix it. Today, before heading to work, I topped off the coolant system with plain water but forgot to put the cap back on. After about 15 minutes of driving on the highway at 65 MPH, I noticed the temperature was increasing at an alarming rate, as if I had forgotten to add more water. Since work was only 17 miles away, I figured I would be able to make it and continued driving. After another short amount of time, the temperature continued to rise way higher than it had before. I proceeded to make my way to the next exit, but just as I was exiting the car shut down. I pulled over on the off ramp and opened the hood to find the coolant tank cap right as I left it, unattached. After I left it unattached. After I let it cool down for about a half hour, I added some more water in the radiator and put the cap back on this time, then when I went to start the car (the owner be for me had a switch put in for the starter) I turned the key and triggered the starter to do its thing however the engine wouldn’t turn. As I looked back under the hood, I saw the water I just put in on the ground under the car. After getting a ride to work and 6 hours later I returned back to my car and the same thing is occurring (engine won’t turn).
1. If the coolant tank or hoses are bad and are leaking water/coolant and not getting it to the engine, would this explain why the car won’t even start? If this is not the problem, any ideas as to what it is?
2. What should my next move be after getting it back home?
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Ill be running the compression test no later than the 24 (my next payday) and i think ill have to replace the head gaskets. My Book tells me to torque to “22 ,43 then loosen all bolts completely then to 22, 43-47, and 55-73” why do i have to loosen them half way in?
Nice videos ! I’d give those an excellent in fact. Remember there’s a bolt tightening pattern you should find in the specs for that particular engine. The reason to tighten then loosen them as per the instructions, is to evenly seat the head gasket on the head THEN retorque it to ensure a proper, even fit. Also, when you get around to it, make sure you get all the old gasket material cleaned off before putting on the new one. ;>)
Good work.
M.Yep. But be prepared because it may look like a flooded basement. And when you pull the head off, take a steel ruler and check for flatness or take it to a machine shop and have them check it for being warped. Oh yeah, you might order a water pump as that looks like toast.
Gotta go earn a living. Back tomorrow. Good luck !
M.If the engine got hot enough that it has no compression on any cylinders you might be better off searching for a used engine. If you redo the head it might run again but there could be damage to the rings etc. that you can’t see.
Wysetech is quite right. IMHO, when you have a wounded head gasket and low compression on one or more cylinders, it’s prudent to thoroughly examine all the engine components to check for additional damage. In your case, it might be both more efficient and cost saving to either buy a used engine or short block it if the head is still good.
If you buy a used engine, carefully read any warranty it’s supplied with. You’re looking for things like what the shop and/or the original seller of the engine will do for you over what time period in the event the replacement engine goes kaputsky and what they’re obliged to fix or stick you with. If they don’t offer a warranty of some kind, I’d either walk (or run) away or see if you can purchase a separate extended warranty and again, read that one really really carefully.
Sorry I haven’t read all the comments but from your videos, seems you definitely have water in your engine that shouldn’t be there. And the water leaking from your water pump seems excessive. Unfortunately seems a head gasket replacement is in order. I feel your pain since I had one done last November!! Keep us updated.
Yes all of them are except for the one down and below I think that is where the BPV sits..?. I have to get someone to look down there. In the meantime after a brand new turbo install I also had to reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative which I did not do before taking the thousand mile trip. I have done it now after reading about it. There is information to suggest that merely resetting that ECU can do to the job. I will post a follow up on what happened. But what does it look like to you , when CEl is thrown after rev up up and going to RPM > 3k ( > 75 mph on my car ).
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