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Hey I got a car that I really love. And have already put 500 or 600 bucks in to it. But it still needs more but not sure what it needs. I have a 1987 Lincoln town car with a 302 and 4 speed auto. Has a almost new cap and brand new plugs, brakes, wipes and a few small things. For the first 10 min of driving it wants to jump at stops and if I don’t hit the gas as soon as I put it in drive it will die. Plus it revs high sometime when stopped. It reved a lot height till I unhock some air sencer that a older tech told me to try undoing till I fix the idle. Somebody plz help me. Any input would be great, thank you
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Bad TPS for this guy, similar symptoms:
May also wish to verify no vacuum leaks and clean your MAF sensor:
TPS, Throttle position sensor, you could verify the sweeps checking resistance, but were this me, I’d probably not even bother and just hit the local salvage yard that had another compatible one from that line since that other guy’s symptoms seem to match your own. Probably cost you $10 max.
As to the MAF, mass airflow sensor, I’d just clean it first. Unless you’re in a state/country that bans aerosol sprays you can purchase MAF cleaner in aerosol format from nearly any auto parts store.
Not an ETCG vid, but this scotty kilmer one will cover the gist faster:
Sure, but MAF will be right after the air filer inline with the tube, either as a slot style or like the one in scotty’s vid that I posted. Likely since your car is older, it’s likely that older style.
TPS should be on the intake attached to the throttle body.
Much like this for TPS:
the exact part as attached to TB in above pic looks like this:
Yep, first is TPS. As to the second, is that in-between the throttle-body and air filter? Likely air temperature/charge sensor.
MAF should look like this, it will be right after the plastic air tubing inline, likely bolted right to the air filter housing:
Lol the TBS was loose and letting air in. Got it nice and tight and she is running normal again. Btw there is no MAF for this car. Thank you for all the help.
Sweet, glad to hear you got it fixed. I was kind of wondering considering how old it is regarding the MAF or lack thereof.
Yeah. But I did find a one bin wire by the firewall on the drivers side, Any idea where it goes or what it’s for?
Considering age, is this still the original engine? I ask as swaps even with a similar engine often have connections that are changed or unused.
You’d have to take a couple photos, one closer, one a bit zoomed out. There might be someone here that could ID it.If it doesn’t look like a factory wire, it may have simply been for some aftermarket add-on(tach/ammeter/etc), or even power wire for an audio system. Are you able to trace where it goes inside the vehicle?
If you don’t have much slack on it, it should kind of want to go where it went at one point if you free it. As it’s 2 prong sensor connection by the look of it, likely whatever it was connected to got bypassed, or upgraded. AC on the car? R-134a conversion from R-12? My guess is might be the old low/high pressure switch connection. Could have been emissions related (EVAP, EGR)looking at the photo since it’s curiously close to vacuum lines that are joined together. I’m really not sure. If there was a stock photo of where that was going before it got yanked, I could tell ya, but beyond that…
Anything not function on the car? Cruise control, oil pressure indicator, etc?If you can clean up the wires a bit you can probably look them up in a wiring diagram to find out for certain. Say at http://alldatadiy.com for instance, if there are not good vehicle specific forums for that town car. Which I’m going to guess, probably not. For the small fee, you should be able to fix just about anything mechanical or electrical on the vehicle yourself with the factory service manuals and diagrams that site will provide.
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