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Intake leaks. Voltage leaks. Dirty air filter. Etc etc etc..
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/4em7t-h … epair.html
Here’s an interesting thread that contains a Honda flow chart for your era Accord. It’s on the last post, and says “CLICK HERE”
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/thebe … dtc_43.pdf
After doing research, it seems that code 43 refers to the oxygen sensor inmost cases.
Should be pretty straight forward to trouble shoot. Do some voltage checks of the wiring ad well as voltage drop testing. Check the integrity of the wiring as well as checking for exhaust leaks near the oxygen sensor itself. If you try using a DVOM to read the o2 sensor voltages while the vehicle is running, make sure the o2 sensor has warmed up and the vehicle is in closed loop.
You also may want to go over Eric’s idle speech thread too –
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
Around what RPM are you at when it bogs down?
Sounds kinda like a clogged exhaust.With clogged exhaust wouldn’t it do it on all gears, especially the 1st and 2nd since that where the most acceleration is? If I remember it correctly, right after the 4th gear is shift into. Right around 1500rpm and 2000rpm. The thing is right after shift, I noticed it and let go slow and then plunge it back down and it takes off again without a hitch.
Even with exhaust clog, where would it be?
Thanks.If it’s transmission related, on older A/T or any with a trouble-some symptom, a product called Lubegard ‘red’ by some, their basic ATF additive, might be worth looking into:
[url=http://lubegard.com/C-112/LUBEGARD+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid+Protectant:32o2sqnv]http://lubegard.com/C-112/LUBEGARD+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid+Protectant
I[/url]’ve added it with success to some symptomatic or neglected transmissions, some re-builders swear by it and it’s certainly not ‘snake’ oil. Of course, you don’t want to overfill the transmission and nothing short of good service intervals OR fixing a mechanical issue, should that be the case, will any ‘additive’ be able to resolve. Just a thought. It ‘has’ shown that it lowers temp of the fluid via block temps by users on sites like BITOG, a very popular product there to reputable ‘fluid scrutinizers’, FWIW.
Does it feel like torque convertor shudder or slipping of the transmission?
So, what kind of servicing have you done with the A/T since getting the car 4 years ago?
I’m personally not a fan of additives or ‘fixes in a can’, but I KNOW that Honda transmissions in particular do not like anything other than genuine Honda transmission fluids. I wouldn’t recommend adding anything into this car in particular. Other vehicles, it might help out, but I’ve been taught (and Eric has stated many times) that you do NOT want to put anything else in a Honda trans.
Quoted From hbvx:
If it’s transmission related, on older A/T or any with a trouble-some symptom, a product called Lubegard ‘red’ by some, their basic ATF additive, might be worth looking into:
[url=http://lubegard.com/C-112/LUBEGARD+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid+Protectant:2060lnrh]http://lubegard.com/C-112/LUBEGARD+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid+Protectant
I[/url]’ve added it with success to some symptomatic or neglected transmissions, some re-builders swear by it and it’s certainly not ‘snake’ oil. Of course, you don’t want to overfill the transmission and nothing short of good service intervals OR fixing a mechanical issue, should that be the case, will any ‘additive’ be able to resolve. Just a thought. It ‘has’ shown that it lowers temp of the fluid via block temps by users on sites like BITOG, a very popular product there to reputable ‘fluid scrutinizers’, FWIW.
Does it feel like torque convertor shudder or slipping of the transmission?
So, what kind of servicing have you done with the A/T since getting the car 4 years ago?
As far as service, I have done every thing for the car. You name it, I have done it. The stuffs I have done are preventive stuffs. That is why the car this old is still looking like new and runs great still. The best service that I noticed the big difference was the valve adjustments. I clean the EGR ports and valve though they were half clogged, I didn’t feel much effect. Other than that full tune up, timing, cap, rotor, wires, valve cover, I already changed out the transmission fluid 3 times within a short few thousands miles. Not much more I can do for the car. The only thing I got left with the most important being first:
1) Rear engine mount. Not sure about the sides 2 but they don’t seem to be that bad. Minimal if any vibration.
2) Find the cause of the bogging 4th gear. One guys over CB7tuner thinks it might be the fuel regulator. But it should be giving me problems throughout all gears and not just the 4th and only for split second if I let my foot off a little then I plunge it, the it takes off. So that doesn’t sound like a bad fuel regulator.
3) Find the cause of the rhythmic sound at low speed. I looked at all tires and they spin uniformly on the balancer. If the tires were a problem they would be since I bought them new. But they got about 25000 miles them. I had alignment twice already. The 2nd time there were rarely any adjustments.
4) New struts, I can’t afford them right now. Though these are still riding well without any tire issues or bouncing and stuffs. No leaks. I wonder if my rhythmic sound is cause by bad shock as I can’t find a bad bearing, axle is good. No play what so ever. No broken boots or any thing. Brakes all good.
5) Find the way to wax my car without dust attracting to it after. This one is hard and maybe impossible.
Nothing but Honda’s fluids goes into my transmission and steering. What the previous owner done that is not listed in his maintenance chart, I don’t know. But I see that he mostly brought his car to a Honda’s certified shops.
Thanks.Alright, my apologies for not gathering the data first before offering advice. It is a good product, so I just threw that out there in the event it’s transmission related, though at this point it’s probably mechanical in nature and the fluid would only be masking the problem even if it had ‘some’ benefits in your app.
The description of the problem ‘sounded’ as if the bogging was immediately upon entering 4th gear. Is it right after the shift, etc. It would seem strange if a fuel pressure regulator would be the issue, since less fuel would be needed in 4th comparatively to the more power hungry lower gears; that is unless this happens during WOT/full load and not under light acceleration. Is there difference in your 4th gear bogging symptom relative to load entering or while in 4th gear, does it ever get better in 4th? This is a 4 speed auto, does it have O/D or a lock-up type torque convertor?
ADDED: Were older Honda transmissions stillon Z1 or DW1? …and personally I’ve had great results with Amsoil’s MTF in the old VX S20 5 speed with the taller gears.
I replaced the O2 sensor and can feel the difference in the car already. Much more responsive. The car also shift a little earlier if I don’t gun the pedal. Before it usually shift at 3000rpm and now it shifts as early as 2000rpm.
But my 4th gear bogging is still there. Every time it shifts into 4th gear on the freeway when I floor it, it bogs down and I have to let go of the pedal slightly to regain speed. You can feel and see the bogging in the tach meter. If I let my foot off slowly from the pedal, the car regain and you see the tach shoots right up and takes off really fast.
Oh, I did not paint my heat shield as I could not get it off. The AC freon pipe in the front was preventing it from coming off and I didn’t want to bend that soft tube and break it so I’ll have no AC in SoCal is hell. Maybe some one with the same car and has taken it off before could give me some pointers.Thanks.
Quoted From hbvx:
Alright, my apologies for not gathering the data first before offering advice. It is a good product, so I just threw that out there in the event it’s transmission related, though at this point it’s probably mechanical in nature and the fluid would only be masking the problem even if it had ‘some’ benefits in your app.
The description of the problem ‘sounded’ as if the bogging was immediately upon entering 4th gear. Is it right after the shift, etc. It would seem strange if a fuel pressure regulator would be the issue, since less fuel would be needed in 4th comparatively to the more power hungry lower gears; that is unless this happens during WOT/full load and not under light acceleration. Is there difference in your 4th gear bogging symptom relative to load entering or while in 4th gear, does it ever get better in 4th? This is a 4 speed auto, does it have O/D or a lock-up type torque convertor?
ADDED: Were older Honda transmissions stillon Z1 or DW1? …and personally I’ve had great results with Amsoil’s MTF in the old VX S20 5 speed with the taller gears.
Hey bud,
Thanks for your advice and you do not need to apologize to me or any one else regarding this thread. All you are doing is trying to help. Not only that you gave me an idea about that product. Though it won’t help my Accord but it might other places. So please don’t apologize but allow me to thank you for trying to help.
The bogging down is only in 4th gear. It does not do it as soon as 4th gear hits but a second or two after as I kept my foot on the pedal to move faster. If I let my foot off slightly then it picks up immediately and accelerate like normal and very fast. I have driven many CB7, mod and stock, and I can tell you that this engine is good and the tranny is in good shape too. I have a transmission shop only and the owner is a close friend so he told me it’s definitely not the tranny as the problem that I have is inconsistent of the tranny problem. I had the fluid sent out to diagnosis and it came back good.
Now I am a scientific kind of guy who once diagnosed a car problem to a part, I usually don’t just replace the part, but I go on to find out how and why the part fail. This car had an alternator problem and the dash battery came on. I took it many autozone and O’reilly places and they all said the alternator is good. And this was true as I put the voltmeter on it and it tells me so. So I know it’s not the diode and it’s not the brush. The only remaining part of the alternator was the regulator. So I bought a used OEM Honda alternator off Ebay and replaced the regulator and the light stayed off. I also replaced the brush. Now before this, I had contacted Eric and Scott Kimmer about it and they both advised me to replace the alternator and be done with it. But I didn’t want to shell out $150 for refurb or $300 for a new one. So I spent only $35 but I learn every thing I could about alternator.
So you see me a lot on car forums and I ask million of questions. I don’t so it to be a bother but to learn different methods so that when I finally do the job, I will get it right the first time and I learned and utilized the best methods so I can advise others to save money and time.
So if it’s not scientifically sound, I won’t sleep until I find a solution.
But hey, thank you for helping me learn about your method. I am going to look at my TCU as this series has issues with the TCU electronics component and it could be failing. I love this kind of stuffs as once I modified my $20 sound card to sound like a $2500 professional sound card. Music was so true and you can hear every thing. Very pleasing to the senses.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=185004
So keep them coming.Yea code 43 is for the O2 sensor, don’t replace a Honda fuel pump with a non stock unit, in fact Honda fuel pumps hardly ever go bad in my experience. I think I mentioned in another thread about your ‘bogging’ problem that it’s likely to be a transmission issue, I don’t have any experience with the product mentioned but let us know if you use it and if you have any success with it.
^Now that he mentions TCU/TCM, that makes some sense if it’s going out. I remember the Stratus I used the product I listed in also had instances with similar model A/Ts in those Chrysler/Dodge series which needed a re-flash to correct and over-adjusted TCM on a neglected tranny. Even though the new fluid was capable the transmission was adjusted to shift as though the fluid was garbage still. My experience wasn’t like that but could have been. It was a family car I gained possession of and found out the neglected maintenance and started getting into car repair/maintenance. Mechanic in learning, and have learned a lot from ETCG.
Thanks Eric. +a bunch. T)
Well some what good news. I went to Fry’s Electronics to apply for a job there. On the way there, I made every exit just so I can test the 4th gear bogging. Well, I exit 6 times and none did the problem occur. Since I replace the O2 sensor, this car has been taking off real good. Lucky I replace the front torque engine mount and put the polyurethane inserts in it. Otherwise it would have torn to shred. Basically, I felt the power renewed. I am going to test it again when I have to go some where. I try not to drive around too much as the gas prices is horrible. It’s projected to be at $5 per gal by Memorial day.
Well, I don’t any one that has transmission problem right now so can’t really recommend the product. I am going to look into the TCU next week.
Update on the rhythmic sound:
I sprayed some silicone on the rubber boots, bushings, and the center of the axle nut. The sound seems to lessen. The noise is independent of the brakes as it sorta stop when braking. Not only that, I can feel it coming from the outer axle meet bearing area.
Any way, I got my hands on a Sprint performance strut bar for my front strut towers. I am going to install it this weekend. There’s a few projects I got to do but no hurry.
I like this forums b/c I get my answers much quicker. The people are nicer and polite. I also love the CB7tuner site as it’s all about my car. What I love even more is the forums’ owner shuttled sense of humor. Some times I would read a thread just out of learning curiosity and came upon his reply and I laugh all night.
I hope I am not a bug around here.
Thanks guys.
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