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Love the videos on youtube, great stuff…
A little on the car… 156k miles, only modification is a K&N drop in, which has been in there since 55k, cleaned yearly.
One day coming home from work, about 6 weeks ago, the check engine light came on in my car. Went to advanced auto parts, 5 codes, misfire in each cylinder and a random misfire code.
Did some googling, this is what I’ve done so far:
cap
rotor
spark plug wires (OEM acura)
NGK platinum (made in Japan, not the german)
fuel filter (oem acura)
cleaned IACV/FICV
new PCV valve
checked for vacuum leaks using ETCG video method.
ear to the screwdriver, all injectors clicking
bottle of techron
checked ecu connectors, compressed air and cleaned inside and out.
distributor o-ring (no oil leak inside but a very small one outside)I didn’t do it all at one time but after basically each thing I changed something, i disconnected the battery to reset the ecu.
Between each part change, the car showed the following symptoms:
Rough idle when cold (if you look at the exhaust, you can see it kind of skip every once in a while)
backfire while going up a steep hill, if 50% or so throttle is applied.
flashing check engine lightso flash forward to TODAY and how it runs:
exhaust still skips a beat every once in a while
no more backfire, no matter how hard I trynew symptom: the cat is rattling like crazy inside. So it’s blown.
These are my questions:
is there any chance the cat clog up and caused these symptoms, then finally gave up? Or is it more likely, according to what I described, that something upstream, ruined the cat?
Is it possible for the car to throw multiple cylinder misfires, but only actually be one cylinder? The reason I ask this question is, some say it could be valve/headgasket compression issues. If it was a burnt valve or cylinder issue, why would it say every cylinder is misfiring?Thanks in advance!
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New symptom has shown up today for the first time ever (never happened in 10+ years of ownership), might help with diagnosis.
Went to start the car up, 80 degrees, car was at operating temp. The RPM went from 750 to 0 in 2 seconds and died. Tried again, same thing. 3rd time, it fired up and before the rpm could drop to zero, gave it a little gas, the engine revved up and acted normally. Helped it at about 1500-2000 rpm for about 30 seconds (and throughout this time there is all sorts of rattling under my car, thinking cat again but I really need a jack and stands, i’m in an apartment so no tools. 🙁
That problem went away and hasn’t happened since.
Finally got the valve lash done, about 4 intake/ 4 exhaust were too tight, the rest were dead on.
Stone cold engine, made sure next size up didn’t fit and the right size slid in consistently.
new plugs looked exactly the same all across, no differences.
Disconnected the battery 10 mins to let it reset.
Fired it up, idled great for about 2 mins, then I could hear it missing randomly, exhaust started making the same poof sound intermittently. Within 1-2 mins, check engine light started flashing so I shut it down. Have not had a chance to pull the code yet, but I can guess with 99% certainty what it is.
Drove 200 miles with the light on (been driving these last like 4 months with this problem, engine backfires going up hills and under load, just like before. No noticeable change in performance or fuel economy.
Probably going to change to remove and clean all 4 injectors next, maybe compression test, unless ya’ll have any other suggestions.
[quote=”college man” post=52659]I would check the spark to see if its a solid blue.
unplug each injector according to the power balance
test.[/quote]I need to do this, totally forgot. When I did power balance test removing spark plug wires, cylinder 3 had no effect when removed.
I’m hoping it’s not a burnt valve and just an injector.
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