Motor mount bolt stick.

[Taha Syed]

I was changing the motor mounts in my 1999 Honda CRV EX, managed to TORK out the bolts. But now they’re just free rotating and moving in and out, but won’t actually come out.

It’s like a put a bolt through a piece of metal through a hole larger than it, and then put a nut on the end so it doesn’t actually stay still and just wobbles around.

One bolt came out, and now i don’t know what to do. Please help, these mounts really need to go, one’s bushing just came off and it’s just a frame now.

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Topic

[James]

If your bolt is already out of the tread material. Can you get a pry bar or large screw driver and pry gently behind the mound or bolt head to force itself to walk out. Might spray some penetrating oil as well. Be careful not to bind bolt and you can walk it in and out some as you pry against if needed.

[James]

Sorry somehow i was looking at the wrong bolt. Duhh. Still try to apply pressure and rotate out. May need to take second jack and lift up on mount or motor with block of wood if bolt is bound in there.

[Taha Syed]

See that’s the problem, i can’t really apply pressure anywhere it just rotates entirely free.

It’s like, take a piece of metal drill a 3/8 hole in it, then pass a 1/8 bolt through and put a nut on the bolt. Then try to undo the bold from the nut from the bolt side. That’s what it feels like. One bolt came out normal like a bolt should, it’s just the other 4 i can’t seem to do anything to.

Worst part is this is inside the cars frame, so i’d have to angle grind a whole into it to do anything to it. Very inconvenient

[Ty]

I seen this with engine cradle bushings before and the only ways around it are to grind off the head or cut it off.

[James]

I was just going to ask the same thing. Could you cut through the mount with engine supported?

[James]

Mount bolt or mount if needed

[Ty]

Now for the big problem what to do after the old mount is off.

Everything im coming up with will require allot of work.

Probably have to cut that section of the frame out and weld new nuts on the backside of the piece that was cut out and weld it back into place.

[Taha Syed]

I appreciate everyone input on this, but here’s an idea.

It seems like what Honda originally did was basically connect a nut inside the frame and pass a bolt through. My thought is that because of the salt we use on our roads, these nuts rusted badly to the bolt and when i applied torque they simply broke off their weld or whatever Honda did, and now it’s exactly like a 1/8 bolt in a 3/8 hole spinning freely.

I can cut through metal or problems, i have an angle grinder, but if i cut the frame i’d be in a pickle since i don’t have a welder. But, what if i just cut the bolts off, and then riveted in the new mounts? I know this is a REALLY gross repair job, and the cut nuts will forever rattle and rustle inside my frame, but for a twice accidental 18 year old car i think this is good.

The next challenge would be to find a rivet that would work. But what does everyone think of that?

[Its me]

I believe this bolt is a 10X30 which means that it has a 10mm thickness. I would think that a rivet would not have sufficient strength for this application (not saying that 100%).

What I have heard of being done is essentially grinding off the head of the old bolt (I would use a die grinder, due to the limited space), thus being able to push back the remaining portion of the bolt stud and nut… Then boring out the hole to remove the stud and nut. Then taking a piece of metal, drill a proper sized hole in it (so a new bolt can go through it), welding a nut to that metal piece, then putting that whole assembly (nut through the bored out hole) and welding that metal piece to the frame. Not sure of the long term durability, but a possibility. The person who did this said it cost him about $150 for the weld job at a local shop.

The other possiblity is to install a rivnut. My concern would be a Rivnuts ability to hold properly on that application, so the specifications of what it can take may be a factor…

Good luck

Karl

[Taha Syed]

Thanks for the suggestions. I was thinking maybe boring the hole to get the old nuts etc out, but again the lack of welder. Or i would have to somehow move the car, which would also be difficult since it’s kinda partway gutted right now.

Also thanks for suggesting rivnuts, I’ve never heard of them before. Steel variety should be strong enough, and there’s a pre-drilled hole in the frame that lines with the new mount, which has nothing in it i can probably put another nut in. I think 3 of these should hold.

Course that brings up, where do i find these? Because I’ve literally never heard of them. And as you said strength limits.

[Maxwell Floyd]

I’m sure you found a solution to this problem by now but I was reading through the post and came across an article that described using thread repair inserts to removed broken bolts. I have also found some really useful information in my vehicle’s repair manual.

[Taha Syed]

Hey guys. I didn’t update the thread for a while cos i was waiting for winter to wrap up before i could finally fix the job.

I figured out a way (if not the best way) to do this:

First i took the bumper off, and the steel cross bar (i think it’s the steel component of the bumper behind it), behind them was the end of the 2 long steel runners of the cars frame, there’s 2 small hooks on this that the steel bar hooks into. I don’t know why Honda made it like this but it works.

Using a rotary tool, and cutting disks i made a cut into the end of the frame like a door and bent it out of the way. There was a second sheet of metal behind it that i also cut with a tool and cold chisel.

As i had thought, inside the frame there’s a nut that’s welded in and the bolt threads into it to get the mounds on. Because of Canadian road salt, the bolts welds rusted and simply snapped off when i applied tork.

I reached into the holes i’ve made by hand, because i was tired of having skin on it. And using a pair of locking pliers i held the nut that had broken loose and used a spanner to open the bolt.

After that, to install the new mounts i used a little bit of tape to hold a nut in my spanner which i reached in and placed above the hole as i inserted a bolt through the underside with the mount.

Then i held the nut with a spanner and tightened away with a socket, and finished it off with a smaller torque bar to torque spec (28 lbft if i remember right)

I did the same on the other side, and reassembled the car. And so far it’s been running better than before, the transmission shifts are smoother and the engine isn’t rocking nearly as bad.

I’ll upload pictures if i can, but that’s the best way i found i could do the job. Yes it means to replace the motor mounts ever again or do anything involving them the bumper has to come off, but there was no way i could get a welder accurately in there, and the car will probably be driven to the ground by me anyway.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

[Billy]

[quote=”Deacon Blues” post=190505]Hey guys. I didn’t update the thread for a while cos i was waiting for winter to wrap up before i could finally fix the job.

I figured out a way (if not the best way) to do this:

First i took the bumper off, and the steel cross bar (i think it’s the steel component of the bumper behind it), behind them was the end of the 2 long steel runners of the cars frame, there’s 2 small hooks on this that the steel bar hooks into. I don’t know why Honda made it like this but it works.

Using a rotary tool, and cutting disks i made a cut into the end of the frame like a door and bent it out of the way. There was a second sheet of metal behind it that i also cut with a tool and cold chisel.

As i had thought, inside the frame there’s a nut that’s welded in and the bolt threads into it to get the mounds on. Because of Canadian road salt, the bolts welds rusted and simply snapped off when i applied tork.

I reached into the holes i’ve made by hand, because i was tired of having skin on it. And using a pair of locking pliers i held the nut that had broken loose and used a spanner to open the bolt.

After that, to install the new mounts i used a little bit of tape to hold a nut in my spanner which i reached in and placed above the hole as i inserted a bolt through the underside with the mount.

Then i held the nut with a spanner and tightened away with a socket, and finished it off with a smaller torque bar to torque spec (28 lbft if i remember right)

I did the same on the other side, and reassembled the car. And so far it’s been running better than before, the transmission shifts are smoother and the engine isn’t rocking nearly as bad.

I’ll upload pictures if i can, but that’s the best way i found i could do the job. Yes it means to replace the motor mounts ever again or do anything involving them the bumper has to come off, but there was no way i could get a welder accurately in there, and the car will probably be driven to the ground by me anyway.

Thanks to everyone who helped.[/quote]Nice work, thanks for posting your solution.

[Author]

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