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Hello. I’ve got a 1999 civic lx with the d16y7 engine. It’s got what I believe is an aftermarket distributor and the tachometer isn’t working. The distributor is a TD-73U which is type recommended for this vehicle. I removed the cap and inspected the wires on the igniter. Upon inspection, I noticed that the blue wire didn’t appear to be present (without taking it apart) and there was no wire connected to the rpm connector on the igniter. I believe this is the issue, but is it possible that the wire is hidden somewhere or is it just not there? Could this be a fluke? I will eventually either get a used honda distributor or new one as soon as the funds are available. The car starts fine and drives well without any prolems.
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if the blue wire is not in the harness.it may be on the passenger
side.see link.Aftermarket distributors are almost always a problem on Honda’s. You might consider replacing it with a used OE unit rather than trying to make your aftermarket one work.
I finally found a genuine honda distributor for a good price. I installed it but no luck. I am having the same problem with the tachometer. I did some research and learned that the tachometer receives it’s signal from the ecu and the ecu receives the signal from the blue wire in the distributor which is tied into the ckp sensor. I thought it was the igniter, but that wasn’t the case according to the diagram, although the igniter does have an rpm wire slot.
I am going to buy a tachometer and connect it to the test tachometer. I believe it’s connected directly to the distributor. From the test tach, it goes to the ecu and then the tachometer itself.
That’s interesting because I always thought the tach signal came from the igniter. The crank sensor sends the signal to the igniter. The igniter sends it to the PCM and the tach. Not sure where you’re getting your information but I’m not sure it’s correct. That said if the igniter is an issue you usually see the tach go all over the place, I rarely see a dead one. If you do have a dead one perhaps it’s not a bad idea to check the cluster as you suggest. I would not replace the tach first thing however. I would first try ‘adjusting’ the pin connections at the back of the cluster by bending them slightly. I do see issues with electrical contacts in this area. In fact you might verify this by running the engine and wiggling the connection at the cluster to see if the tach starts working.
Keep us posted.
It turned out to be a bad tachometer. I checked the wires going to the connector with a test tachometer and it worked good. The connector and looked good. I did wiggle the connection but that didn’t help. I bought a new oem tachometer from ebay and now everything works good.
About the igniter. When I opened up the distributor, I did see the igniter and there are four contact points. Three in front and one on the side. From watching your videos and reading the diagrams, everything says the tachometer signal comes from the igniter and at that port on the side. But when I open the distributor, there is no wire connecting to this point. In fact the blue wire enters the distributor and goes near the crank case center. So I am not sure.
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