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You can add this guy to my unsubscribed list:
and his text version:
http://list25.com/25-things-your-car-mechanic-wont-tell-you/
I’d argue that most of those are at the very least misleading, in some cases complete bullshit. Let’s look at the list, my comments (probably preaching to the choir) in italics:
25. Be wary of scare tactics, especially when they claim they wouldn’t drive your car another foot.
Yes, this can be a sales tactic, but I’m sure there are some instances where this is the case (like a balljoint about to snap, etc.)
24. Make sure to check for certification in the shop and if you’re in the US, a state license.
I’m not sure on this one, since I’m a DIYer, not a pro. Somebody want to comment on this?
23. Look for a clean garage. A cluttered floor filled with dirty rags may be a red flag.
While a clean garage sells better, if a shop happens to be busy, that may or may not mean anything…
22. Although it seems obvious, never sign a blank work authorization form. Always have a specific estimate for each job first.
The first part is true… but the second part, not at all! Sometimes problems are like cockroaches; you may see one, but there are many more to be found. I’d argue the opposite, if they stick to a specific estimate, they’ll not diagnose things (and just slap some part on).
21. If the mechanic claims they don’t need fancy equipment like a basic engine analyzer, go elsewhere.
Depends on the job, and even so, the fancy dancy equipment in most cases is just a diagnostics aid, not a “problem finder” (expection: ABS dealer tools that can bleed 4 wheel ABS units). Sometimes you don’t need the fancy tool. Plus, it’s not the tool, but the human using the tool; the tool is only as good as the user.
20. As a rule of thumb, when you get a second opinion don’t tell the mechanic what the first diagnosis was
this one, actually is a good point. Not because “mechanics are crooks” (the jive of this video), but because you don’t want to bias the diagnostic process. It’s like what I am learning in a project management class this semester; Bias leads to assumptions which leads to missing opportunities (or in this case, actual causes of problems).
19. You don’t need to have your fuel injector cleaned.
While this is often a gimmick (like STP octane jet fuel crap in a bottle), this can be a legitimate job/repair/service. Depends on the rationale.
18.Coolant flushes are usually a gimmick.
Not changing you coolant usually leads to expensive repairs.
17. Same with power steering flushes. Many of your car’s fluids are designed to last up to 100,000 miles.
Maybe on newer cars, but AFAIK, my 1999 Dodge Durango’s longest milage fluid is the diff fluid, which is in the 5 digit range. Yeah, there are oil change shops that sometimes try to offer this without rationale… but most fluids at least in everything I’ve owned doesn’t go that long.
16. If you’re getting a strangely good deal on your tires you may be getting two year old treads. Ask about the build date.
If anything, you always check this no matter the deal you’re getting. I’ve seen this happen with normally priced tires.
15. Avoid lifetime mufflers. While you can get free replacements you’ll have to pay for pipe repairs anyway.
Depends on the warranty. I’ve seen this go both ways.
14.If there is something wrong with your catalytic converter or emissions system consult your dealer. A free replacement is often legally required.
Depends, depends, depends. Not sure on this. I do know seat belts are like this though.
13. Many times you will get charged double labor, especially for multiple tasks. Ask about labor time beforehand.
No, that’s often called the flat rate system. You pay for the job not the time. If the mechanic can git R done faster (and still get it done well, I’m looking at you Eric), then the time savings is worth the money (and more power to the skilled technician)
12. Ask for your old parts back. At least you’ll know they’ve been changed.
Look at them, perhaps. Get back, not always gonna happen… between cores and hazmat disposal this may not be feasible. This assumes that the reader also can tell their exact old part from a new part or some other part pulled from the back of the shop.
11. Be careful with brake jobs. Many mechanics will use cheap parts and mark them up.
I’m sure this happens… but sometimes if you pay you do get good parts. I’m split on this one
10. Watch out for certified pre-owned cars. The certification usually means nothing.
(BS alarm sounds!) This is pure shit. Usually it’s the opposite; the certification is everything; if it’s in budget, it’s probably one of the best deals you can get (at least with dealer certified cars).
9.Bring your car in on Monday not Friday. On Friday the mechanics will rush the job to get done by the weekend.
I have to question this… I’m sure Monday has it’s problems too. What about hungover technicians?
8.A transmission pan with metal particles in it is normal. Don’t get duped.
[i]…unless there’s a lot of metal, especially big chunks. Like in the included picture for this one:
(epic fail?)[/i]
7. Be wary of advertisements for $100 brake jobs. A mechanic won’t make any money on this.
Didn’t we already have this one? Depends on the job (2 or 4 wheel?), the vehicle, and the circumstances. Yeah, I kinda doubt the $100 4 wheel brake jobs advertised on the radio(not mentioning the chain), but to say a brake job MUST cost more than $100 IMHO is bullshit.
6.A transmission flush is almost guaranteed to be a scam. They aren’t recommended by manufacturers and cars almost never need them.
Depends, depends, depends. Usually a change (along with a filter if possible) is better, but the only trannies I know you absolutely cannot flush are Chrysler ATF+ trannies, since they’re lower pressure. But a flush is better than no change at all in other cases.
5. Cheap parts from China are getting popular. Ask to see the box.
a lot of quality ones are made there too; I’m sure there are crappy parts made elsewhere as well. Far from a litmus test IMHO.
4. If they show you an air filter full of dirt and debris make sure it actually came from your vehicle.
If you can tell, unless you saw them pull it out of the car, you probably can change it yourself for less money.
3. Some parts (like an air filter) are relatively easy to change yourself.
Some parts also look easy but are even easier to f*** up too. When in doubt, look it up or farm it out
2. Request factory equipment. This is just another to way to make sure you have legitimate parts.
In some cases, yeah. But in others, there are aftermarket options where the quality is the same or better but the price is a lot less. Not to mention some parts are no longer made by the OE (esp. on older cars).
1.There are no legal standards in the US for used tires. Make sure to inspect them.
Well no shit, Sherlock. With used anything, you look before you buy
I hope I wasn’t too harsh… but a few of these really pissed me off. This guy’s videos had been slipping a bit (esp. the advice videos)… but this one in particular was pretty bullshit.
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