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Misfires, hesitation and lack of power when hot

Home Forums Stay Dirty Lounge Service and Repair Questions Answered Here Misfires, hesitation and lack of power when hot

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  • #596820
    MeridivsMeridivs
    Participant

      Here is one of the nicest-running van we ever had with a 3.1L V6 TBI Chevrolet engine that always ran too good to be true.

      Few days ago it developed a misfire condition that is very pronounced when the engine is hot/at operating temperature – under load it hesitates like it’s running in 4 cylinders out of 6. When cold it starts right away and runs good & smooth.

      Now the van can’t go anywhere – it misfires so severely that the engine stalls and dies at idle.

      What we tried so far, to no effect, was:
      – changing the spark plugs & wires
      – replace the distributor cap & rotor
      – replaced the EGR valve
      – replaced the IAC valve
      – replaced the MAP sensor

      Any ideas what we should be looking at next?

      We had a lot of 3.1L Chevy TBI engines and none ran so smooth like this one and, all of a sudden, none ran that bad in such a short time…

    Viewing 11 replies - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
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    • #596822
      jasonjason
      Participant

        have u done a compression test if not I would check that next and c if it is a mechanical problem then let us no what the test # are on each cyl

        #596837
        Rob megeeRob megee
        Participant

          It is very likely you have a bad coil or ignition module. There are test to identify which components are bad. When I get time I will post the links. I would look there before moving on to engine mechanical issues.

          #596845
          John HugonJohn Hugon
          Participant

            I have some ideas what it could be…but it would be a guess….In my opinion you have to verify your problem before you replace parts. I think this is a very good place to start for diagnosis:
            http://ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues

            #596913
            MeridivsMeridivs
            Participant

              Today we replaced the Ignition Coil – same symptoms.

              I had a problem with the Ignition Module on another car – it didn’t start when that happened. I didn’t knew it could also malfunction.

              Something interesting happened when we changed the fuel filter – we put some injectors/valve cleaner in the new filter and the engine ran and pulled strong for a while. After that it started to misfire again in 2 hours of running perfectly. Now sometimes it runs ok and sometimes it acts up.

              Is there any way to fix this more permanently? We thought of dumping the whole bottle of valve cleaner through the throttle body but a mechanic told us that we can burn the valves this way.

              #596961
              Rob megeeRob megee
              Participant

                I’m not sure we are talking about the same engine. The 3.1l chevy engine I know has three coils on top on the ignition module. One coil is used for two cylinders, so 3 coils for a six cylinder engine. You didn’t say what year? Here is a link for troubleshooting a 3.1. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/index_gm_3.1L_3.4L/index_of_articles_1.php .

                #596968
                BillBill
                Participant

                  Obviously if he changed the distributor cap and rotor it doesn’t have a coil pack.

                  #597005
                  MeridivsMeridivs
                  Participant

                    Engine is an ’92 Chevrolet 3.1L V6 TBI

                    There’s a single coil ignition system which we aready replaced with no effect.

                    The only thing that really changed something was a shot of valve cleaner in the fuel filter.

                    Now the problem comes and goes, now it runs good, the next moment it misfires. Pulls better after the valve cleaner but not as before…

                    #597085
                    jasonjason
                    Participant

                      have u check to see what the fuel psi is and if it drops or gains win it is running. the psi should be 40 to 47 with the ignition on and engine off. it should drop 3 to 10 psi with the motor running. in the past I have noticed that if you have a small blockage the needle will bounce a lot. If not go back to mechanical I always rule out the mechanical first if the problem is not just in your face and on the early cars it is much harder than plugin in a computer. while u can plug them up it just don’t tell as much.

                      #597152
                      Rob megeeRob megee
                      Participant

                        [quote=”wysetech” post=99675]Obviously if he changed the distributor cap and rotor it doesn’t have a coil pack.[/quote]

                        Sorry, I missed that. I saw 3.1 and assumed it was a dis. My error, thanks for pointing that out.

                        #597311
                        Aj santosAj santos
                        Participant

                          Check connection to ur ecu loose connection can cause misfire

                          #597424
                          EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
                          Keymaster

                            The performance issue article covers many of the steps in diagnosing a problem like this. I would suggest you read through it before replacing anymore parts.

                            http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues

                            One thing in particular you might check for is vacuum leaks. It’s quite common for intake gaskets to go bad and cause performance issues. There is a video on how to do this in the article I posted for you.

                            Good luck and keep us posted.

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