Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Service and Repair Questions Answered Here › Misfire multiple cylinders Nissan Frontier
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February 11, 2015 at 6:41 pm #655100
Nissan Frontier V6 3.3L VG33 engine
I was getting some hesitation and loss of power a couple of weeks ago. I immediately replaced the fuel filter and filled the tank with gas. I suspected that I got a bad tank of gas. After I replaced the fuel filter, it misfired once and then it was fine for a week. I would then get random misfires.
Yesterday, I barely could get the truck home. I had major hesitation and loss of power.
The codes are:
Knock sensor
Misfire cylinder 1
Misfire random cylindersCan someone give me some troubleshooting tips? What should I test first and how?
From what I’ve read, it could be a fuel or ignition problem. I replaced the plugs, cap, and wires about 30k miles ago. Timing belt was changed around that time as well.
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February 11, 2015 at 7:00 pm #655103
I would start with checking your fuel pressure, both in KOEF and KOEO, also if you have a scanner look at the fuel trim spec (ltft), Let us know the results.
February 11, 2015 at 7:35 pm #655104Unfortunately, I can not find my actron scanner. I had to drive it to an auto parts store this morning.
One thing I noticed was smoke coming from where the catalytic converter. It was hard to tell, since the cat is right after the manifold next to the firewall. I’ve had an oil leak in that are from my valve cover gasket.
If my catalytic converter is clogged, would it cause it to overheat. Maybe, that is my issue (clogged cat). I don’t want to just change it. I guess I would need to do a back pressure test. What are your thoughts? It was smoking really bad from the engine compartment when I drove it home yesterday (after misfiring repeatedly). It is drove fine this morning for a short trip, however.
If it is a clogged catalytic converter, wouldn’t it throw some sort of emissions code? I’m thinking the misfire just caused the cat to overheat. I’m still thinking it is an ignition or fuel problem. For some reason, I’m leaning towards the distributor. It seems like the problem exists when the system gets warmed up.
February 11, 2015 at 8:53 pm #655107Is there a way to test the distributor?
February 11, 2015 at 11:39 pm #655110You can find the FSM for your year here:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Frontier/
Usually there are charts in the engine control section that will walk you through resolving various codes.
The cat overheating may be a sign that you are dumping raw gas into it. If that is the case, I would suspect something ignition related.
February 12, 2015 at 12:49 am #655115There’s multiple causes for misfire but a knock sensor either works or not. It would be interesting know what the computer does when the knock sensor has taken a holiday.
February 12, 2015 at 2:42 am #655124Thanks
I’ll look over the FSM tonight.
What are your thoughts on Toughone distributors or aftermarket distributors in general? I don’t think nissan makes new ones any longer. I can only get a remanufactured one from them. I’m not sure if that is a better route than just going to a parts house. The prices are:
350 oem remanufactured
260 to 300 toughone, cardone, etc.
100 to 200 Rockauto
100 used oem ebay
75 brand new from ebayIt seems like a lot of people purchase them off ebay. I saw one listing that sold over 500. I’m not sure how they can be that cheap, however. I didn’t see many negatives on quality.
February 12, 2015 at 2:52 am #655125For misfires random cylinders, it means more than one cylinder is misfiring. It could be anything: low fuel pressure (bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter), bad battery (believe it or not), spark plugs, spark plug wires, vacuum leak(s), jumped timing. You replaced the fuel filter, so you could rule that out. Check it for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and vacuum lines, anything behind the MAF sensor. Check your spark plugs for wear. Test your battery. Check your timing and spark plug wires. Check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Might be a bad fuel pressure regulator, too.
As far as the distributor, get the OEM remanufactured part or one from a reputable manufacturer. It’s tempting to get it from eBay and save a ton of money, but it’s hit-and-miss. There’s a reason they can sell them so cheap! It’s always better to air on the side of caution because it’s a pain to have to return it. If you do, rest assured that eBay’s buyer protection is legendary. Check the refund and return policies for the seller.
February 12, 2015 at 3:38 am #655130[quote=”sirstinky” post=127947]For misfires random cylinders, it means more than one cylinder is misfiring. It could be anything: low fuel pressure (bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter), bad battery (believe it or not), spark plugs, spark plug wires, vacuum leak(s), jumped timing. You replaced the fuel filter, so you could rule that out. Check it for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold and vacuum lines, anything behind the MAF sensor. Check your spark plugs for wear. Test your battery. Check your timing and spark plug wires. Check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Might be a bad fuel pressure regulator, too.
As far as the distributor, get the OEM remanufactured part or one from a reputable manufacturer. It’s tempting to get it from eBay and save a ton of money, but it’s hit-and-miss. There’s a reason they can sell them so cheap! It’s always better to air on the side of caution because it’s a pain to have to return it. If you do, rest assured that eBay’s buyer protection is legendary. Check the refund and return policies for the seller.[/quote]
I read some reviews on amazon from the same seller. It seems like a few people had it fail shortly after they installed it. I’ll call my local dealership to check the price. Otherwise, I may just go with an aftermarket one from an auto parts store. It has a lifetime warranty.
I’m thinking it is an ignition issue based on research online. Also, the catalytic converter did get extremely hot. It makes sense what dtidman said about fuel getting into the converter. I inspected the wires, cap, and rotor. They seem to be ok. I wonder what the return policy is for distributors. I hate to just be a parts changer, but it seems like the simplest route.
February 12, 2015 at 4:21 am #655134You could go either way, the reman dealership part or the new part from the auto parts store. Keep in mind, that some of the ones you get from the auto parts store are remans too. Nothing wrong with remans as long as they are a reputable brand. Like I said before, get the best one you can afford. You get what you pay for with auto parts. A lifetime warranty (at least at my parts store) means you can return it if it breaks or fails after you install it. Cost Less Auto Parts is the place I go first for parts. Decent-quality non-OEM parts and OEM for good prices.
February 12, 2015 at 4:34 am #655135[quote=”sirstinky” post=127956]You could go either way, the reman dealership part or the new part from the auto parts store. Keep in mind, that some of the ones you get from the auto parts store are remans too. Nothing wrong with remans as long as they are a reputable brand. Like I said before, get the best one you can afford. You get what you pay for with auto parts. A lifetime warranty (at least at my parts store) means you can return it if it breaks or fails after you install it. Cost Less Auto Parts is the place I go first for parts. Decent-quality non-OEM parts and OEM for good prices.[/quote]
Thanks
I don’t have that store in my area. I have Oreily’s, advance, autozone, the parts house, and napa. I may go with advance auto parts and just return it if it isn’t the problem. They state they have a 90 return period. Toughone is just the private label for advance auto parts. By looking at the model numbers, it appears to be a cardone select distributor. I can’t believe how much cheaper rock auto is, but I can’t wait a few days for the part.
February 12, 2015 at 4:59 am #655136Napa is expensive. Almost as much as the dealership.
I’ve heard of Cardone and they are a decent quality part. Auto part resellers often put their brand on parts (Duralast, for example), but they are really made by a bigger company for them. Rock Auto is able to charge less because they deal in volume and get parts as wholesale or below, but you don’t know for sure what kind of part you’re getting. Could be a one-hung-lo China brand that will break as soon as you unbox it.
January 23, 2016 at 7:37 am #849888Just updating an old post.
I think the distributors are the same. I noticed the cardone and private labels use variations of the same model number. If I had time I would have just gone with an ebay or rock auto distributor. I ended up just getting in locally at advanced auto for over twice the price. The only plus side is it has a lifetime warranty through them.
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