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First, Great new web site Eric! I have a 2003 Mazda Miata with the 5 speed transmission (bought with 200 miles on it in 2004). After owning the car for a few years, I discovered that the clutch pedal throw was not adjusted correctly. I surmise that the clutch slave cylinder was not extending enough and the clutch was dragging slightly making shifts into first and sometimes second difficult. I have Redline 75W-90 synthetic trans fluid. So, sometimes, not all the time, from a dead stop, the shifter does not always want to go into 1st gear. My foot is all the way to the floor. I have cut the carpet to make interferece impossible. The clutch pedal play and free play are adjusted correctly. If while stopped, I shift into second and then back to first, it’ll go into 1st gear. All other gears shift well now that clutch pedal play is good. Could the synchronizer on first gear be damaged? I recently replaced the shifter and the bushings, and refilled the “turret” with oil. This is a mild problem and is not enough to sto me driving (as this is my commuter car). Any ideas? Thanks.
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Thank you for the response, but the clutch master cylinder has been replaced (and that did help some). The slave cylinder has also been replaced (I forgot to mention that earlier). I don’t think it’s a loss of hydraulic pressure. Pedal always feels good, first time in the morning to late on a hot day. The car has 70,000 miles on it with the original clutch. I had heard that Mazda did not use very good friction mterial (my year had a problem with clutch judder on stock clutches). However, I haven’t had that problem. I am wondering if it might be worth replacing the clutch disc with something else. It’s been a while since I did a clutch, but with a rear wheel drive car, it should be much (in my opinion) easier than and FWD.
Is it a hydraulic clutch? If so, sounds like a problem with the master cylinder. Just repaired a 1988 Fiero GT last week for the same issue, sometimes it’d be ok, then it’d start getting too much freeplay, like 3 inches on the pedal and eventually lose all clutch release control. I replaced the master and the slave just because of the age of the vehicle, looked like the slave was starting to leak, car only has 30K miles on it and the customer always keeps it in tip top shape. Feels like a brand new car now!
I would begin to suspect the throw out bearing and/or clutch plate. It sounds like you have all of the other pieces covered, the turret oil was also a good call, I am glad you changed that, most miata owners miss that when flushing out the tranny oil. With 70,000 miles, it would not hurt to put in a new clutch disc and bearing. I changed my 1995 miata a few years back, before I sold it, and I remember it being pretty easy. In fact, the biggest problems I had was getting my jack under the miata and then getting it high enough on jack stands so that I could drop the transmission! S:)
I miss that miata, and in fact, I have gotten the itch to get another one. Those things are a blast to drive!
I would place my bet on the first gear synchro being a little weak. When sitting at a stop light, in neutral, clutch out, the input shaft is spining at engine RPM. If the first gear synchro is a little weak, it will not always engage the dogs fully. Going to second gear first, slows down the motion in the gear box, allowing easier engagement. BTW, this was the trick to driving cars with a non syncro first gear. The years of driving with a bad slave cylinder could have taken their toll on the first gear synchro.
As long as you gan get to first gear, I would not worry too much at this point. You can still drive the car. Just don’t force it into first gear! At some point down the road, you may be looking at a transmission rebuild.
Don’t overcomplicate it as it could very well be that your clutch is wearing out. Not a bad idea to inspect the hydraulics for leaks though and if you don’t find any you may want to replace the clutch, they aren’t too bad to do but the exhaust can be a pain if it’s rusty. When you do the clutch you might also want to put fresh fluid in the transmssion as well, this will also help with shifting. Good luck.
I have, in fact checked the hydraulic lines for leaks and such. I have also had the fluid flushed about once or twice a year. At this point, I think that I have made up my mind that it just may be the clutch. I can do that job myself. Have tools and live in a no-rust area. However, one last thing. With 70,000 miles on the clock, will I have to replace the pilot bearing at this point? I don’t think that I would be in there for quite a while after that.
Quoted From JohnS_Rosamond:
I have, in fact checked the hydraulic lines for leaks and such. I have also had the fluid flushed about once or twice a year. At this point, I think that I have made up my mind that it just may be the clutch. I can do that job myself. Have tools and live in a no-rust area. However, one last thing. With 70,000 miles on the clock, will I have to replace the pilot bearing at this point? I don’t think that I would be in there for quite a while after that.
With 70k, and any time you go that deep into the drivetrain, just go ahead and replace the pilot bearing, you may want to also inspect your flywheel (although the 1.6/1.8 liters are tough engines) and have it turned and re-weighted (balanced). The kit I bought years ago came with everything. I went out to the garage ealier this morning to see if I still had the box (yes, I tend to never throw things away), and I don’t have it.
Here is a kit that I found online, similar to the one I bought years ago: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=productsearch&cd=2&ved=0CHoQgwgwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rockauto.com%2Fcatalog%2Fraframecatalog.php%3Fcarcode%3D1416787%26parttype%3D1993%26partkey%3D200406%26a%3DFRc1416787k200406-1713373&rct=j&q=2003%20miata%20clutch%20kit&tbm=shop&ei=29hcTqL9HZPCsQLx5ehD&usg=AFQjCNGJX4Ln0gaH6zR4sfAklKFh8QI3Ig&sig2=3OPctOTCf2pXn_7abGF-lg&cad=rjt
Okay, I have the answer. I finally got around to replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and the pilot bearing. The bearings were all fine, and the clutch had quite a lot of meat left on it, but I believe that something may have been wrong with the pressure plate itself. The wear on the pressure plate did not look even and now having driven the car, the amount of pressure needed to compress the pedal is significantly less. I know there was a TSB about clutch chatter for my 2003 (and my VIN is within the range) – but originating dealership refused to help. So something was obvioulsy not right with the set. Getting into first is now no big deal – not even using synthetic fluid. Second gear is as smooth as 3, 4,and 5 now. Hopefully I will be good for a long time now. Thank you.
Quoted From JohnS_Rosamond:
I have Redline 75W-90 synthetic trans fluid.This could be your problem. Redline 75W-90 does not perform too well in cold temperature.
+1 on a good quality tranny oil like something by royal purple.
I had the same problem. Definitely should replace with a new throw out bearing. While your at it might as well do a clutch disk, pressure plate, and pilot bearing replacement. Check for leak
This is John. Replaced the clutch, the transmission was much improved, but it still was not really that good. It never crunched or made bad sounds, but it was never as smooth and easy as other Miata owners stated. First was better, but if you didn’t have it rev-matched second was difficult. I know people have their own favorite oils, but I don’t think that the Redline synthetic oil was the problem. The day after I had the clutch replaced, I got caught in a five-mile (uphill) traffic jam (fatal accident). Stop-and-go traffic for over an hour. Overheated the clutch (slipping quite badly). Clutch did not die, but somewhat damaged the new (el cheapo throw out bearing). Enough! I now drive a 2012 Miata with a very nice shifting 6 speed. Problem solved.
This is John. Replaced the clutch, the transmission was much improved, but it still was not really that good. It never crunched or made bad sounds, but it was never as smooth and easy as other Miata owners stated. First was better, but if you didn’t have it rev-matched second was difficult. I know people have their own favorite oils, but I don’t think that the Redline synthetic oil was the problem. The day after I had the clutch replaced, I got caught in a five-mile (uphill) traffic jam (fatal accident). Stop-and-go traffic for over an hour. Overheated the clutch (slipping quite badly). Clutch did not die, but somewhat damaged the new (el cheapo throw out bearing). Enough! I now drive a 2012 Miata with a very nice shifting 6 speed. Problem solved.
I’ve been scouring the internet to find a solution to my notching/difficult shifting. I know a lot of other people have had the same problem. I had been pushing the pedal all the way to the floor. And with the pedal all the way in I had to jam it into 1/2 and turn the car off to put it in R. It was also grinding when going into 3/4.
I recently replaced the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel in my 1991 Mazda Miata. After I replaced the clutch I replaced all the fluids with new fluids. I even bled out the slave cylinder (which was a complete bitch – stripped bleeder vaulve). I had even ordered a new slave cylinder off Amazon and it’s in the mail.
But after all the work I put into bleeding the clutch, replacing all the fluids and trying things like double clutching I finally decided to adjust the pedal. This changed everything. It had quite a bit of play and the clutch only engaged after being pushed in 3/4 of the way. I adjusted the pedal all the way out (with maximum travel) and this solved my notch shifting. No grinding, no difficult putting it into gear, goes right into gear. Shifts. Like. Butter.
A great guide on adjusting the pedal can be found here (http://www.miata.net/garage/adjust_clutch/). Best of luck doing this and let me know how it goes.
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