Home › Forums › Stay Dirty Lounge › Maintenance Forums › Methods of bleeding brakes
- This topic has 16 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 10 months ago by igdlt.
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January 2, 2012 at 11:00 am #449294
Hey guys, new to the forum, just curious
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January 2, 2012 at 11:00 am #449295
Okay, it looks like my link didn’t work, I am looking at a Mityvac MV6835 Vacuum Brake Bleed Kit
January 7, 2012 at 11:00 am #449296i like pumping the pedal better, but that is definitely the second best way IMO.
January 8, 2012 at 11:00 am #449297Any opinions on the speedy bleeders which are bleeder screws with one way valves in them?
January 8, 2012 at 11:00 am #449298its great for a one person operation.
January 8, 2012 at 11:00 am #449299Just why on the subject. Rich Pin has another video on a tool for air hammer that will break loose bleeder screws with out breaking. Only problem I see is, some cars you would never get your tools in with out removing everything!
Rich pin is a link from Eric The Car Guy.I still prefer the extra person for pushing the pedal to bleed.
January 9, 2012 at 11:00 am #449300Be careful bleeding ABS brakes as you may need a scan tool.
Motive make a great hydraulic system bleeding tool that makes bleeding alot easier for one man operations.
Im also a fan of the 2 person method C8-)
Just bleed the brakes in the correct sequence and dont let the master cylinder run dry.
January 10, 2012 at 11:00 am #449301+1 on the Motive bleeder, and costs half as much!
January 10, 2012 at 11:00 am #449302Another way I know of doing it is how my gf’s father taught me (I’m sure many of you know of this method). After any and all brake work done and there is bleeding to be done, make yourself a brake bleeder. This is simply a cleaned and empty soda or water bottle (20 oz) with a hole cut in the top (large enough to accommodate a brake hose). The brake hose can come from a master cylinder bleeder kit, or you can most likely select some clear tubing sized and cut to fit at a hardware store. Fill the empty bottle with enough brake fluid to submerge the end of the brake hose in the bottle. Insert the other end of the hose onto the brake bleeder screw on your caliper or wheel cylinder. Loosen the brake bleeder screw, and pump the pedal until you can see no more air bubbles in either the hose or bottle of brake fluid. Boom, done. You may have to do the other wheels if you find that there is still air in the system. Hope this helps!
January 10, 2012 at 11:00 am #449303I got a vacuum pump bleeder at autozone for $35 to do bleeds on my own.It also works great for alot of other things to….But if someone was with me then i do the old pump pedal bottle method like eric has,,20oz soda bottle with clear tubing to fit over bleeder valve………….good luck…
January 10, 2012 at 11:00 am #449304Quoted From JPSaxMan:
Another way I know of doing it is how my gf’s father taught me (I’m sure many of you know of this method). After any and all brake work done and there is bleeding to be done, make yourself a brake bleeder. This is simply a cleaned and empty soda or water bottle (20 oz) with a hole cut in the top (large enough to accommodate a brake hose). The brake hose can come from a master cylinder bleeder kit, or you can most likely select some clear tubing sized and cut to fit at a hardware store. Fill the empty bottle with enough brake fluid to submerge the end of the brake hose in the bottle. Insert the other end of the hose onto the brake bleeder screw on your caliper or wheel cylinder. Loosen the brake bleeder screw, and pump the pedal until you can see no more air bubbles in either the hose or bottle of brake fluid. Boom, done. You may have to do the other wheels if you find that there is still air in the system. Hope this helps!
^This. +1
I’ll add:
Most cars have a BLEED ORDER, that is to say bleeding wheels in a series/1 after another. Best to do that, IMO.
Also, IF your Master Cylinder(brake or clutch in M/T actually) is without air and you want to change ‘some fluid’…if its already dirty from rubber deterioration etc…then use a syringe or bulb type(infants ears/nose etc) and suck some used fluid from the cylinders at the fill point > top off with more fresh fluid. A lazy way, I know, but doing this once fixed a squishy brake pedal, may have pulled some air up the line? IDK for sure. Just be sure when doing any brake/clutch system bleeding not to let the reservoir get empty/too low. Keep adding/topping off between bleeding.
January 11, 2012 at 11:00 am #449305Quoted From hbvx:
^This. +1
I’ll add:
Most cars have a BLEED ORDER, that is to say bleeding wheels in a series/1 after another. Best to do that, IMO.
Thanks for adding this. I am oblivious to this (maybe it’s only with newer or certain vehicles?) and only know to bleed from the longest line, to the shortest. But that is a great addition, thanks!
January 11, 2012 at 11:00 am #449306I’m about to buy a pedal pumper cause that is the best way i think but, i never have anyone to pump the brakes for me so the pedal pumper will be perfect.
February 12, 2012 at 11:00 am #449307Quoted From Trcustoms719:
I’m about to buy a pedal pumper cause that is the best way i think but, i never have anyone to pump the brakes for me so the pedal pumper will be perfect.
Where do buy the pedal pumper? If wife is a little more knowledgeable about cars, I would use her but she’s totally useless when it comes to cars or computers. What’s worse she likes to argue. LOL.
February 12, 2012 at 11:00 am #449308Quoted From Bad_dude:
Where do buy the pedal pumper? If wife is a little more knowledgeable about cars, I would use her but she’s totally useless when it comes to cars or computers. What’s worse she likes to argue. LOL.
http://www.youtube.com/user/realfixesrealfast
Here it is in use.
February 13, 2012 at 11:00 am #449309hi im going to be flushing brake fluid on a Nissan Navara / frontier i want to know the bleed pattern is it RL FL RR FR Or is it RL RR FL FR ? CAN U HELP? i need to know ASAP
btw its got the master cyilinder on the right side -
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