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How safe are you being with all the gas dripping around there? I know mythbusters had a hard time lighting gasoline on fire. Would a fan as a precaution stir up fumes creating a worse fire hazard, or work for venting them?
I get nervous around gasoline. What precautions should one take in your opinion, besides gloves and eye protection?
Eric, 9 times out of 10 when I encountor a significant mechanical problem on my vehicles. The gas tank is full. I guess it runs in my family tho cause anytime our cars broke down it was usually right after we filled up the tank. Go figure. Great video tho
Eric, buddy ! Have you ever heard of the Internet and Google ? Almost any problem/issue you are going to come across, someone else has seen it before ! Check this write up on 1999 Ford Crown Vic Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump Replacement. (Okay, it doen’t say fuel level sender, but most people know they are part of the same sub-assembly !)
Important steps
2. If you have more that 1/2 tank of fuel you may want to siphon it out of the tank. The pump is actually on the side of the tank, not on top.
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7. Drop the tank. People say you don’t have to, I tried not to but in the end I did anyway.Well, you get an A for effort, but I hope anyone watching your video understands that leaving the tank IN is not the way to go !
Gasoline in the arm pits, Owie !
Sound like you have some cracked/broken skin there. After showering, apply a bit of Neospor1n. If that doesn’t clean it up in a day or 2, it is likely fungal. Use athletes foot cream.
If the fuel gauge was reading empty, I would Not go after the fuel level sender first. I don’t know on other cars but on most (all?) Ford’s this how the fuel level wiring is hooked up
Key On Power -> Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.Check the output of the IPVR with a 12v test light. It should be blinking slowly.
The “gauge” itself is actually a piece of bimetal with a pointer on it. As current runs through the bimetal it heats up. The amount it heats up and how far the bimetal bends is based on the resistance in the fuel level sender. Simple. Cheap.
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=71778]Eric, buddy ! Have you ever heard of the Internet and Google ? Almost any problem/issue you are going to come across, someone else has seen it before ! Check this write up on 1999 Ford Crown Vic Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump Replacement. (Okay, it doen’t say fuel level sender, but most people know they are part of the same sub-assembly !)
Important steps
2. If you have more that 1/2 tank of fuel you may want to siphon it out of the tank. The pump is actually on the side of the tank, not on top.
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7. Drop the tank. People say you don’t have to, I tried not to but in the end I did anyway.Well, you get an A for effort, but I hope anyone watching your video understands that leaving the tank IN is not the way to go ![/quote]
Thank you for your condescending input. I’m sure your moms real proud of you. If you don’t know what condescending means, you can Google it. 🙂
A top commenter said that a ground issue was usually the cause of a stuck on full reading. I’m pretty sure that the PCM sends a voltage to the gauge, which varies depending on where the fuel level is at. So a “bad ground” is not a good answer.
I think the easiest route would be to hook up a scan tool and run a fuel gauge test to test the gauges operation. If the gauge operates correctly, the problem is pre PCM, probably the fuel level sensor. If it does not operate under command from the test, you know the problem is PCM or post PCM (probably gauge or wiring.)
But as eric said, he’s run into this before, so I totally agree on his jump to the fuel sender assembly. Usually the gauge doesn’t go bad, and the only other thing I’ve seen is the PCM will send a nonsense voltage to the gauge because of something in the fuel that sends a voltage spike thru the sensor wire to the PCM.
This was my first post on your site eric, thank you so much for what you do. I am currently an automotive student and I’ve learned so much from your videos.
My main concern about this video would be a safety issue. Leaking gas, gas vapor and a regular shop light bulb could be a recipe for a problem. I have seen a few shops burn to the ground because of a dropped shop light and/or spark. I always use a fluorescent light on this kind of job, or a good flashlight. Better to be safe than sorry!!!!! Bruce. You need to get a lift, why crawl on the ground like a dog? Fire = gas vapor + spark .Be safe !!!!!!!!!
[quote=”freerunnerj” post=71818]A top commenter said that a ground issue was usually the cause of a stuck on full reading. I’m pretty sure that the PCM sends a voltage to the gauge, which varies depending on where the fuel level is at. So a “bad ground” is not a good answer.
I think the easiest route would be to hook up a scan tool and run a fuel gauge test to test the gauges operation. If the gauge operates correctly, the problem is pre PCM, probably the fuel level sensor. If it does not operate under command from the test, you know the problem is PCM or post PCM (probably gauge or wiring.) [/quote]
It appears that you did not read my previous post.
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=71782]If the fuel gauge was reading empty, I would Not go after the fuel level sender first. I don’t know on other cars but on most (all?) Ford’s this how the fuel level wiring is hooked up
Key On Power -> Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.Check the output of the IPVR with a 12v test light. It should be blinking slowly.[/quote]
There is NO connection between the PCM and the fuel level sensor and the fuel gauge.
I think siphoning gas out of the tank is about the only worthwhile addition to the procedure that this discussion have so far produced. It would definitely saved a good amount of time, mess, and gasoline. Things like removing a tank really sounds easier than it really is. For one, just one rusty bolt or nut is enough to ruin your day, to put icing on the cake a broken bolt is even worse. After the tank comes off, for installation, sometimes (chevy trucks) have this really awkwardly positioned nut that you have to fish the bolt through, again very painful process.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=71788]
Thank you for your condescending input. I’m sure your moms real proud of you. If you don’t know what condescending means, you can Google it. :)[/quote]
First, let me apologize for my “attitude” !I was fascinated at your approach as I have never seen a fuel pump/sender assembly removed with the tank still in the car. While you were unable to remove the entire assembly, you got the job done !
Second, another public session of “eating crow” !
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=71782]If the fuel gauge was reading empty, I would Not go after the fuel level sender first. I don’t know on other cars but on most (all?) Ford’s this how the fuel level wiring is hooked up
Key On Power -> Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator (IPVR) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.Check the output of the IPVR with a 12v test light. It should be blinking slowly.
The “gauge” itself is actually a piece of bimetal with a pointer on it. As current runs through the bimetal it heats up. The amount it heats up and how far the bimetal bends is based on the resistance in the fuel level sender. Simple. Cheap.[/quote]
Well that is no longer correct and has not been for many years ! The wiring is
Key On Power -> Electronic Slosh module (on the instrument panel) ->
Fuel Level Gauge -> Fuel Level Sender -> Ground.The gauge is a typical coil/magnet gauge.
Ya know..I am usually always the first person here to preach to Eric about safety but I realized since the last time I commented on that issue I was too critical. Eric is still a little quilty of not showing us safety practices in his vids it doesn’t mean he’s carless.
As for not doing things the same way as someone else on Google or YouTube is BS. Many times I think about when I have searched for a repair procedure and found It wanted you to do unnecessary procedures to do the diagnosis and repair.Even though I don’t always agree, Eric shows us the most simple and proven way to address a problem.
In my opinion the test procedure he showed us was just fine even though he got to sample “gasoline deororant”If he ever has to address this fuel gauge problem again maybe he will do it differently.
I would hope that we all learn something new every day.
Anyone working on a car that is dripping/leaking gasoline should have a fire extinguisher within 5 feet if where there are working. Better yet, 2 of them. Better yet, be outside, away from any part of building made with combustible material.
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=71912]Anyone working on a car that is dripping/leaking gasoline should have a fire extinguisher within 5 feet if where there are working. Better yet, 2 of them. Better yet, be outside, away from any part of building made with combustible material.[/quote]
I have 3 fire extinguishers in the shop. One of them was within 5 feet of this vehicle when I was working on it. I also kept the door open while working to keep the air circulated.
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