MDX warning lights

[Michael Oliver]

After changing the right front cv axle 2003 Acura MDX, the vsa, vtm4, and ABS, warning lights are on. This is the second time in two months I have changed this axle. This time I used a new Acura axle. Any thoughts on why the lights are on? Drives fine but I’m hesitant to drive with these lights on.

Topic

[Lorrin Barth]

http://www.mdxers.org/forums/18-maintenance/46539-vsa-vtm-4-abs-warning-lights-after-strut-change.html

[Michael Oliver]

Yes I read right after I posted. This may be beyond my level of expertise!

[EricTheCarGuy]

First, Acura doesn’t make an axle for that vehicle. You were likely sold an aftermarket unit. The only way Acura sells axles is as an inner joint assembly and an outer CV joint. In other words, if you got one from Acura, you’d have to make it yourself. That might save you some money in the future.

I just checked the link that was posted. Perhaps the reset would help, it’s worth a try. One thing that I’ve run into with some axles is issues with the tone rings. This is for the ABS and is found on the outer CV joint. If this is damaged in some way, as they sometimes are in the ‘remanufacturing’ process, it can disrupt the ABS signal for that wheel. Also as pointed out in that forum, there could have been damage to the sensor or it’s wiring. I often unhook the sensor wire so that when I swing the knuckle out, I don’t overstress the wiring. If this happened, you may need to replace the sensor.

Give the reset a try and see what happens. If that’s not successful, you might take a closer look at that tone ring for damage.

[Michael Oliver]

Thanks Eric. First of all, it’s disappointing about the cv axle not being new. I ordered it from a dealer and paid premium price. They failed to mention that. It does ride smoother than the other remanufactured joint from a leading parts dealer. The ring looks shiny and new to the naked eye. I did however stress the wires trying to remove the hub from the ball joint. These parts seem to be reversed from the ones in your video as the joint is forced up by the control arm and the hub is forced down by the strut assembly. I seemed to have forced all the grease out of the ball joint rubber boot and also may have damaged the stabilizer bar linkage ball joint boot. Are the boots replaceable or do I need new parts
How do I jump these pins mentioned in the link? How do I identify the specific pins and what tool or wire can be used to safety do this?

Thanks for the lesson on speed sensor and tone rings. You can bet I don’t make that mistake again.

[Author]

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