Mazda MPV Strut problam help please.

[Justin]

I have replaced struts before on different cars. On my 01 mazda mpv 2.5 it is set up little different.It has lower balljoints and strut with nylon type strut bearing on top then mount there is no top balljoint.I take it the strut bearing acts like the ball joint. I replaced them a few months back with monore OE specture with new bearing too the mounts look good not rusty or anything. not very long ago On the passide I heard a creek noise but like rubber rubbing to metal not grinding. I had my wife turn the wheel slowly I could see the strut spring move some while turning makeing the noise. I replaced the bearing with KYB it was ok for awhile. And it started again and now the driverside is doing it also now too. It only does it when at a dead stop while turning. I took the strut assblemly out on the passside and the mount that turns is pretty tight or firm when turning I pressed it looked at the KYB bearing it looked good the mount looked good. I put it back together it didn’t do it at first then it started again.
I replaced the sway bar endlinks which was under warrenty it helped handling but not the noise.

Could I have got bad monore OESpectrum Struts from rock auto is there something inside the strut making it bind and make the spring move some? It was fine for a good while before this started happened.The strut rod nut seems to turn hard or firm. Am I over tighting the strut rod nut? Am I not tighting it anuff? I never had this noise before with the old ones. I also have no noises from the strut mounts or anything when hitting bumps it quit.

FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER AND SPRING REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

Caution:

Performing the following procedures without first removing the ABS wheel-speed sensor may possibly cause an open circuit in the harness if it is pulled by mistake. Before performing the following procedures, remove the ABS wheel-sensor (axle side) and fix it to an appropriate place where the sensor will not be pulled by mistake while servicing the vehicle.

Remove in the order indicated in the table.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
Inspect the front wheel alignment.

If not as specified, adjust the front wheel alignment.

Piston Rod Nut Removal Note

Protect the coil spring using a piece of cloth, then set the SSTs.
Compress the coil spring using the SSTs, and remove the piston rod nut.

Warning:

Removing the piston rod nut is dangerous. The shock absorber and spring could fly off under tremendous pressure and cause serious injury or death. Secure the shock absorber in the SSTs before removing the piston rod nut.

Bound Stopper Installation Note

Apply grease to the contact surface between the bound stopper and the dust boot.

Dust Boot Installation Note

Apply grease to the contact surface between the dust boot and the upper spring seat.

Coil Spring Installation Note

Temporarily install the coil spring, upper spring seat rubber and upper spring seat on the shock absorber so that the lower end of the coil spring is seated on the step of the lower spring seat.

Mark the coil spring, upper spring seat rubber and upper spring seat for proper installation as shown in the figure.
Align the marks of the coil spring, upper spring seat rubber and upper spring seat. Protect the coil spring and upper seat spring using a piece of cloth, then set the SSTs.

Compress the coil spring using the SSTs.
Install the lower spring seat rubber on the lower spring seat.
Install the shock absorber so that the lower end of the coil spring is seated on the step of the lower spring seat.
Make sure that the marks on the shock absorber and upper spring seat are aligned.
Install the bearing, mounting rubber, and piston rod nut. Piston rod nut tightening torque 90 – 127 Nm (9.1 – 13.0 kgf-m, 66 – 94.0 ft. lbs.)

Front Shock Absorber and Spring Installation Note

Face the mounting block direction indicator toward the rear outboard position, and install the shock absorber.

Topic

[Justin]

The info I provided is from alldata.Also the only mark on the strut mount for a direction indicator is a dent or half moon notch made in it Iam not really sure where is should point. I was told somewhere online it should point outward toward fender. not sure I’ll call the dealer and see it they can help.

[Justin]

I called the dealer they really didn’t tell me to much but where the center nut bolts in the middle of the strut or rod nut should be center of mount.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Just for the heck of it you might check the other components in the suspension for the noise. Sometimes they can be tricky to track down. More info here.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Justin]

ok thanks

[Justin]

I also replaced front wheelings on it it’s set up like a ford turas almost there pressed in. I got the best bearings I could get and seals and had a machine shop do it. That sloved the humming in the front end.After I fixed the bad bearing humms my dad says, I didn’t want to say anything but I was almost postive it was your tranny lol.I also replaced the CV- axle on the passide I thought that was making the sqeeking metal to rubber noise when stopped. But it didn’t fix it.I drove it today had to grab parts I didn’t recall hearing it. I did what the dealer said to on top of the strut rod where the nut and washer holds everything together, it’a kinda like a half a bolt that slides into the mount mazda service told me that they should be center of the mount. Which they where not so I turned the strut nuts sot here dead center.

I drive it again and listen

[Ingvar]

I can only comment on the strut issue.
As far as I understood it. Squeaking noise coming from strut assembly during turns.
You pointed at the issue yourself.
Spring moving on the rubber donut pad. THAT will definitely cause noise, as rubber is high friction material.
Why spring is moving? 2 reasons:
1. You did NOT set it right into the notch made in rubber for it. It’s very easy to do, actually. Done it.
2. you set it in the rubber right, but the donut itself is not set right on the metal spring mount. Happens Done it.
Both cases happen very easy, if you rush releasing springs from spring compressor. Torque applied shifts springs/rubber, so it needs to be continuously checked upon.
Also, if you did NOT replace those pads, they simply might – and likely did – compress, and now you have loose spring.
Basically, it’s not disastrous, but quite annoying. Easiest is to get to spring pads, and spray ends+rubber with some good thick grease. It’;; work itself into the rubbing parts eventually. But then dust will collect on them again and squeak will return.
Right way is to replace pads and reset everything. Struts ALWAYS have alignment marks for spring ends, or recesses to fit them in.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Sounds like the noise might be coming from the brakes. You might want to take a closer look at them. Information on servicing brakes and solving brake noise problems can be found here

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Justin]

Thanks eric the car guy. I can see with my eye’s the sring moving either the spring isn’t seated right like you said or they need replaced just like you said. It looks to me the rubbers need replaced it’s a 01 with 148k they seem smashed. So I’am going to replace both rubbers upper and botton and also mount with new bearing. Rock auto has the best prices as for the rubbers I might have to get it froma dealer. The spring seats have recesses on the bottom on the strut and rubber on the strut same as top. I will keep you posted

thanks alot

Oh yeah I checked sway bar bushing there good and I replaced the end links . I wish they would still make everything greaseable.

[Ingvar]

Well, I am not Eric, ^^^^^ but I’ll say – you welcome. You basically saw answer to your question with your own eyes, you know. This is why Quick Strut by say Monroe is such a great option.

[Author]

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