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That car uses a cartridge filter. You should use the correct tool to remove the plastic cover. Where you get your oil change supplies should have one and are not expensive. You can remove the drain plug in the center first but I seldom do. Once you have the cover removed you just clean everything well and replace the O ring with the one supplied and install the new cartridge. Oil the O ring and reinstall the cover being careful to get it straight. Snug it up well but don’t go crazy. There is a torque spec but I don’t have it handy.
Refill the oil and start the engine and inspect for leaks.
I used to have 2.3l Mazda 3, which had the same engine and cartridge.
I ALWAYS bought the cartridge from the Mazda dealership for about $10. It came with two O-rings, which you will replace and oil with some fresh oil on your finger.
You should also replace the crush washer… the dealer will give this to your or throw this in for maybe a $1. Just make it known you want it.
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Drain Plug 22 ft lbs
Filter Housing 22 ft lbs
6mm Filter Drain Plug 8 ft lbsThis is the oil I always used in that engine:
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-5W-20-Motor-Oil-5qt/17018132Okay, fill it to around 4 quarts and make sure it is on the dip stick… You have to look at the back of the stick because the front of the dipstick is useless, but you can still easily tell the oil level.
Then back it off the ramps!
Finally, shut it down and adjust the level. You should be right around 4.25 quarts.
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This is the oil filter tool I got:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NBYDWW/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1It was black though… who cares what color it is.
Where do you live by the way? Are you by chance around the Savanna, GA or Beaufort County SC area?
If yes, let me know. I will totally walk you through it the first time.
No sir, in Northern Canada. It is well below freezing where I am, so I will be doing this in a friends garage after hours to avoid the issue of fasteners freezing to the splash guard. I have limited access to the facility, and didn’t want to be stuck mid job when no parts stores would be open to get me out of a jam. In your experience have you had problems with the filter assembly (or filter cover, I’m not familiar the correct name) getting damaged in the process?
No, you have absolutely nothing to worry about provided:
1. You work on it in a heated garage. (i.e. -40C will make the plastic more brittle)
2. You use the proper Mazda/Ford Filter wrench. Do NOT try to use something generic as you will likely break the cartridge.
3. Use hand tools only. The filter socket is 1/2″ drive, but I wouldn’t put it on an impact.
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No part store is going to have another plastic filter cartridge… That is a dealer only, proprietary item, so just don’t break it.
Being you are so far up north where it is so cold:
1. I would park the car in the heated garage overnight.
2. I would run the engine at idle for probably 10 minutes to get the oil somewhat thin without making it so hot it burns you.
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In those terrible Canadian temps, I strongly believe you would be best served with a quality 0W-20 Synthetic as it will be much more likely to be liquid at startup vs. a honey that won’t flow!
This is what I would personally use (have used this 0W-20 when I couldn’t get 5w-20 for the engine on my Mazda 3):
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-20.aspxBeing it is so cold, 0W-20 is better in your area vs. 5W-20 in my area… In your temps the 5W-20 probably would pour very slow!
1. I really like Mobil, Ams, and Royal Purple… (Mobile is the least expensive and still a great synthetic)
2. Mobil recommends their 0W-20 for all engines calling for 5W-20 and 0W-20 specifically stating: “Mobil 1™ 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy synthetic oil is engineered to help improve fuel economy in vehicles where SAE 0W-20 or 5W-20 motor oil is recommended.”
It meets/exceeds:
ACEA A1/B1
API SN, SM, SL, SJ
ILSAC GF-5
Ford WSS-M2C945-A
Approvals:
General Motors Service Fill
dexos1™
Following Quality Levels:
Ford WSS-M2C930-A
General Motors GM 6094M
API CFIn those Canadian temps, other than parking it in a heated garage, there is nothing you could do that is better than using a Synthetic Winter oil that will stay liquid in the freezing cold.
If I were you I would also check your engine coolant’s specific gravity to ensure its freezing point is reasonable with regards to your weather. If there is a problem, you will want to buy some new coolant an drain/re-fill it. Personally, I always used Mazda’s FL22 (Pre-Mixed Green), but refer to the stickers under your hood and be aware there ARE plenty of great parts-store coolants if you need one. Also check that the coolant you use is appropriate for your climate. The coolant in my area doesn’t need to withstand such harsh cold temperatures being it gets to be below freezing maybe 36 hours all year.
If you do change the coolant, you don’t want to be messing around diluting it… best just to buy one professionally mixed at the factory with quality, laboratory-grade water vs. hard-water, minerals, etc. Whatever you do, phosphors and silicates are BAD news… Also don’t even consider using DexCool… Just get something that is compatible with what is already in the car, so you don’t have to flush every last drop of the old stuff out.
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