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Good Morning,
My Mazda 3 S Touring 2.3L 4-door sedan (automatic) Year: 2008
NO CEL, but it had a stored P0126.
That said, 1) the engine properly comes up to temperature and 2) does NOT overheat.
From what I read, it might be smart to change the thermostat and possibly the temperature sender (in addition to the coolant, obviously) to address this code…
That said, the car has 87,000 and the coolant was changed at 60,000 with Mazda’s FL22 pre-mix (120,000 Coolant)… Of course, this was done as preventative maintenance in an attempt to prevent something just like this… :woohoo:
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Regardless, being I have NEVER had any trouble with that car, and the thermostat is hard to get to (under the belt tension-er), I just reset the code in hopes it won’t re-occur. Obviously, it it blows another P0126 (or similar), I am going to have to assume it is not a fluke and fix it.
That said, I have one problem.
The EV Monitor will NOT become Ready. It stays incomplete per my Innova scan tool.
I have tried several different drive tests, including from cold, different speeds, stop/go, freeway driving, etc. Different fuel tank levels… This includes cold starts, idling it at 3500 RPM to warm it up for about 200 seconds, idling for a half hour, blasting off like a rocket full-throttle, gentle acceleration, driving at 5-20 mph, gently stops to simulate city driving…
I CANNOT get the EVAP Monitor to go “READY” Before clearing the P0126, it was NOT ready, either, and I drove the car 2,600 miles across country!
What I want is either A) the Car to bring all monitors to READY with no codes or B) Blow a code, so I can fix the problem, reset the DTC and drive until condition A is met.
Any way to force the monitor to the EV monitor to do whatever tests it needs to do to enter a ready state?
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Try this… It may work for your model..
http://mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123759295-Found-a-successful-Drive-Cycle-formula!
It wont run the drive cycle due to the set P0126 code. It can not run the Evap test, to set the monitor untill the engine is up to operating temp.
A P0126 means the ECT has not seen the coolant temp go over 160F. You need a scan tool to monitor engine temp and see what it gets to.
You could have a bad thermostat or a bad ECT sensor.
Given that you just did cooling system work, I think it’s a good idea that you purge the air from the cooling system. Air pockets in the cooling system are very common after doing work on them so you must purge the air after any cooling system service.
As for the evap monitor, sometimes you need to use a scan tool to force the monitor to run. In the end if the above methods don’t work, you may need to find someone with a scan tool capable of running the monitor.
Keep us posted.
Fair enough, but isn’t it a different process with a pressurized Radiator system that doesn’t have a fill cap on the radiator?
Also, I cannot find a coolant bleed screw on my Mazda 3.
Next question is what type of Scan tool can force the monitor to run?
[quote=”NETWizz” post=82809]
Next question is what type of Scan tool can force the monitor to run?[/quote]
Bi-direction scan tool with manufacture information loaded,
but not sure if it will with that code set.That test has parameters that have to be met before the ECM will begin the monitor test. Even if you initiate a monitor test on demand the ECM is likely to fail the test due to insufficient engine temperature. One parameter is that there are no temperature related codes. Since the ECM believes the engine has not come up to operating temperature it is delaying the test till that code is cleared.Also remember a functional test and a monitor readiness test have separate testing criteria.
You could run a functional test on the Evap system, but it will not set the monitor. This is actually intentional to keep shops from “faking” a monitor test to pass a car for emissions.Okay, a correction. You can do a functional test with a bi-directional scan tool and the ECM will use it as a monitor test at the same time. But, part of the on demand test is the engine has to run for 20 minutes and reach operating temperature.
The engine IS reaching temperature as far as I know. The P0126 code was a one-time fluke… If it would re-occur, I would replace the thermostat and possibly the temp sensor.
Would an Actron CP9580(A) do the job if I buy one?
I have a scanner very similar to that one, it is not capable of what they’re talking about. While advanced that is still essentially a one-way scanner and can’t send commands to the computer. I don’t know a whole lot about Mazdas, my Millenia was too complex for me to do my own work, but a lot of times the bi-directional scanners are manufacturer specific or very high end. I’d monitor the coolant temp and open/closed loop operation with a basic live data scanner and go from there. I had to drive a car 2000 miles to set a monitor once, I’m sure there was something wrong with it but oh well it finally passed state OBD!
Took it to my Mazda dealer and they checked the temp and said everything is fine. They also said the system is not in need of bleeding air as they squeeze the lines with the reservoir open and no bubbles come up. They said there is no bleed screw on the Mazda 3.
Their computer scan tool shows perfect temps.
They replaced L34R-1881-H (The ECU/ECM, which Mazda calls a PCM)
They reflashed (called a PCM Calibration)
SW-L34REH000
U2023-A0-ABS
U2212-OF-GEM
U2064-FF-1C
U2516-FF-1CApparently these are the OEM, Factory TUNE profiles…
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Fast forward… It still will NOT pass SMOG nor run the EVAP test. Mazda’s Engineers say it might run it when powered off and left to sit overnight…
Took it in to get Smog Checked:
Comprehensive Vehicle Inspection: PASS
Functional Test: FAIL
Emissions Test: PASSEmissions Test Result (dyno):
15 MPH CO^2, O^2, HC, CO, NO = PASS
15 MPH CO^2, O^2, HC, CO, NO = PASS^^ That’s right folks. This vehicle has NO aftermarket parts, has no check engine light, original fuel cap, had ALL the maintenance done, and EVEN passes “Emissions” part of the test (the measured amounts are well below the MAX allowed for each, even below AVG for this car), yet California still won’t pass it.
The only thing wrong is:
Fuel Evaporative Controls Functional: FAIL
Fuel Evaporative Controls: FAILThey told me that quite simply that monitor needs to come up.
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Took it BACK to Mazda (Again) and they are actually starting to feel a big guilty on this one. They told me they are NOT allowed to force the car to run a specific test though even if someone did, it would still ONLY pass if the system worked right.
They updated the PCM Software Firmware to the LATEST revisions (free of charge to be nice); apparently, they routinely charge for that and Mazda America charges them each time, too! Oh, and of course, they cannot guarantee it will fix anything because they cannot find ANYTHING wrong with the car!
The tech said he scanned a handful of them in the garage and like half of them had the EVAP sensor down. :dry:
He said he then tested a few new, unsold cars that just came in for their first oil change and a couple of them would NOT pass, either.
Mazda told me to drive it around until I see all the monitors come up with my scan tool but to keep the fuel tank EXACTLY half full and that it might in 2 or 3 days run the EVAP test when powered off…
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I came across this PDF for the Actron 9580(A) and on page 87
http://www.etoolcart.com/manual/9580.pdfPage 87:
Diagnostic Menu > On-Board Systems > EVAP TestDoes anyone think maybe… just maybe this tool could tell my blasted car’s ECU to run its test(s) and set the EVAP monitor?
If I cannot do it, I am going to simply give up. Right now this car is resisted in SC, and I am TRYING to do the legal thing and register it in CA, but I am getting to the point of “it would just be easier to break the law and not register the car in CA..”. It’s got plates (in a different state)… and that other state might be getting a registration renewal, real soon… and California might not see $1 in registration fees.
The vehicle is the manufacturer’s responsibility to ensure the emissions system is functioning properly under federal law, especially in commiefornia. Had a similar problem with an 07 Honda with screwy electronics. Kept calling corporate Honda everyday and threatening to report them to the EPA, sue them, contact the media, etc. Eventually they spent 3 weeks and $3000-4000 and gave me a new Accord EX-L to drive while they were monkeying around with my car…
[quote=”stiv625″ post=82896]The vehicle is the manufacturer’s responsibility to ensure the emissions system is functioning properly under federal law, especially in commiefornia. Had a similar problem with an 07 Honda with screwy electronics. Kept calling corporate Honda everyday and threatening to report them to the EPA, sue them, contact the media, etc. Eventually they spent 3 weeks and $3000-4000 and gave me a new Accord EX-L to drive while they were monkeying around with my car…[/quote]
http://www.epa.gov/obd/pubs/420f09048.pdf
8 years or 80,000 miles.
Sounds like a design flaw in the emissions control system.
They “should” be able to tell with Mode 6 exactly what is not allowing the monitor to run. You might end up having to call Mazda directly and asking for authorization to take it to another dealer. Sometimes you get an “incompetent” dealer.
I didn’t know you needed authorization to go to another dealer.
BTW, did this car ever get a new thermostat?
[quote=”barneyb” post=82916]I didn’t know you needed authorization to go to another dealer.
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If he wants to try and push a emissions warranty claim it goes better if he goes directly to Mazda and asks for a second opinion by another dealer.
Took it BACK to Mazda (Again) and they are actually starting to feel a big guilty on this one. They told me they are NOT allowed to force the car to run a specific test though even if someone did, it would still ONLY pass if the system worked right.
They updated the PCM Software Firmware to the LATEST revisions (free of charge to be nice); apparently, they routinely charge for that and Mazda America charges them each time, too! Oh, and of course, they cannot guarantee it will fix anything because they cannot find ANYTHING wrong with the car!
The tech said he scanned a handful of them in the garage and like half of them had the EVAP sensor down. :dry:
He said he then tested a few new, unsold cars that just came in for their first oil change and a couple of them would NOT pass, either.
Plus if he is paying out of pocket for this and NOT getting a repair, he needs to go somewhere else, but why pay the same cost again when he has already paid for work he did not get?
I haven’t been that luckey. I have 87k, and a PZEV warranty on the car through 150k/15yr
Mazda BARELY warrants anything. They are FAR worse than Hyundai when it comes to warranty and would rather blame me, the driver. Case and point, I had an exhaust heat-shield dragging on the ground because the plastic clips melted (design defect), and it was within warranty. Mazda wanted ALL Oil Change receipts, wanted me to prove I never drove a Mazda 3 “off-road” etc…
Thus far, I have had to pay a couple hundred dollars out of pocket because the dealers claim, there is NO warranty unless they have to change a part out. The book, in contrast, says “should a warrantable condition exists, Mazda will pay for service including: diagnostics, parts, and labor.
The dealer says NO, all those things come together or not at all. As far as I can tell they are in a list and in my opinion a PZEV warranty means teh car damn well better pass for 150k. I am NOT too happy to be out-of-pocket for labor and diagnostics. As far as I am concerned, not passing SMOG is a warrantable condition (or should be).
The whole thing is complete B.S., and the Dealer is the agent. That said, I fully intend to submit a BBB complaint because I can EASILY define my problems, substantiate them, include parts numbers, exhibits, text from from their own warranty manuals, examples/explanations, point out that no exclusions apply, that it failed two smog checks.
The problem is the dealer has been good about it, and I don’t want to burn any of the people whom I worked with. I have been in tech/customer service jobs, and it is NEVER a good idea to bite the hand that feeds you, lol.
Don’t get me wrong, if I brought a vehicle to them with nothing wrong with it, that would NOT be a warrantable condition, and I would expect to get hit with a 1 hour diagnostic fee. In contrast, if a vehicle is warranted to pass smog for 150K/15yr and it can’t be tested (isn’t ready) that seems like a defect. It is NOT like I have disconnected the battery on that car in 13 months! I also tried every Drive-Test I could find on the Internet even those for different cars.
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Should I launch the complaint against the motor company vs. the Dealer? I totally believe them that they only get paid for warranty work when they are paid to replace parts, and no way in “tar-nation” should a tech or mechanic be the one to take any heat over a complaint like this.
How would you guys handle a complaint? and against whom should I make it?
The only advice I can give is to contact the manufacture directly and see what can be done.
Hopefully Eric chimes in, his dealership experience might offer a solution or suggestions.
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=82930]The only advice I can give is to contact the manufacture directly and see what can be done.
Hopefully Eric chimes in, his dealership experience might offer a solution or suggestions.[/quote]
+1
It won’t reflect badly on the dealer if they’ve tried what they were authorized to do and they shouldn’t catch heat if the car really has serious problems. My service writer at Honda was actually the one who encouraged me to take it up with corporate Honda in my case in the first place. Yeah, their tech dumped crazy hours into the car for probably crappy warranty pay but that’s the company/system’s fault not mine. I would hound corporate Mazda and see what they’ll do. If they won’t budge I can give you the contact info for the guy I talked to at the EPA about warranty concerns.
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