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I’m hoping I might be able to get help here. I got a question regarding a manual 2005 Accord that I own.
Last couple of weeks I began noticing a peculiar sound when I change gears, it only happens some times it seems and is more pronounced from 1st to 2nd, now and then to 3rd and 4th and rarely to 5th but I HAVE heard it.
Basically it is like a click or somewhat of a clunk after I have changed the gear and the weight/power is transferred to the drive shafts or wheels (not sure). I’ve noticed it happens more when I have changed the gear at low rpm’s (2k-2.5k) for the 1st to 2nd. There is also a bit of jerkiness felt, almost like when traveling on 1st or 2nd in a parking lot and pressing and letting off the gas.
I know I have a loose lower right ball joint and loose both front upper ball joints. Could they be the reason for the sound? I feel the vibration from the sound when I have my foot on the clutch but every other aspect of the tranny feels fine. Please help me out with any input or advice you may have.
Thanks much.
Best regards,
Pablo
:unsure:
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In addition to addressing the suspension parts you mentioned I would also check the engine mounts both front and back.
Less likely as to what you are describing, but putting it out there anyways.
A dirty MAF or any other thing that makes the engine run irregular can translate into jerky, rough gearchanges with slight teeth grinding. I am not exactly sure if that fits your discription but a transmission clunk can create that sound and feel. I believe it is due to the engine and transmission synchronization being off as the engine adjusts revs too slowly.You know, that seems to be more bang on! Not only do I have that sound, but the description of slight teeth grinding made me have an aha moment. I do on occasion feel that; it does not quite grind but the feeling of the teeth sliding before slipping through can be felt on my gear shifter. Sometimes it’s a nice smooth engangement, other times rougher with hesitation and a click almost. Wow… I had never thought of that, my car IS at approx 210K.
I will do some fiddling around and post anything I come up with.
Thanks again!
One thing, I just looked this up… Is it something I can clean myself or does the sensor have to be replaced? Is it the same thing as the MAP? I saw it on the Rock Auto website while trying to get an idea of what it would look like on my car.
MAF? Yes. Grab “specific” MAF cleaner at any nearby autoparts store. Usually made by CRC. It’s measuring airflow, follow just beyond the airbox where the filter goes, it should be attached to the “snorkel” hose leading to the intake from the airbox and have an electrical connector going to it.
Part # 15 in above. You may or may not have a separate IAT sensor as well. In either case just be cautious when handling and don’t try to wipe it down near the openings on the end when you spray the cleaner in there.MAF – Mass Air Flow Sensor
MAP – Manifold Absolute Pressure SensorDid you try changing the transaxle fluid with OEM Honda fluid?
You can clean it yourself using brake cleaner or MAF cleaner. Spray it good from all directions BUT DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE! The break very easily and are somewhat expensive.
Don’t be deterred however, it takes 5 minutes and might save you a lot of money. Follow the breather hos from the filter towards the engine. If there is a MAF it usually sits in a plastik part of the tubing and has a connector going to it. Disconnect the wire and the top of the filter and loosen the clamp holding the pipe to the intake manifold. Spray wire and put back on.A sensor isn’t going to create a grinding noise or any funny feeling in the shifter because when you are shifting the clutch has seperated the engine from the trans. You may just want to change the trans fluid (I’m guessing it has never been changed.) But because of the mileage and it is more pronounced between 1st and 2nd you probably just have some worn out syncronizers.
Well I said I would post what I figured out once I tampered with things. I purchased the MAF cleaner and an injector cleaner just to add some benefit (thought it would be good). After I did all that AND forced on the idle learn procedure it seems my ride is driving smoother. Could be in my brains (you know – like a placebo effect). I haven’t got any grinding or such, I have noticed the climate is nicer though. When I first noticed the issue it was -30 celcius. Now it’s -10. Still sometimes when clutch engages I feel that clunk, like I had described, almost like a jerk when the rpm’s are low and the torque affects the drive. Wondering if it is my clutch that is failing, but I did some tests (second gear start – will stall if I don’t push rpms. 1/2″ pedal raise with e-brake engaged and shift from 1st to reverse back and forth with no grinding, in idle speed disengage clutch and place in reverse – tests spin down time apparently – and works fine). I have my parts on order (lower ball joint and both upper control arms), having them replaced on the 9th. Maybe the looseness in the front suspension components is making the clunk sound and jerk feel when torque is applied less than smoothly. Will Let y’all know. Sorry for the lengthy post but thought the progress was worth posting. Thanks again for everyone’s input this far.
OK lets back off from the engine sensors we have no codes for causing the problem theory. Let’s focus on a more practical approach. That said based on your more detailed description I would be looking for a clutch release problem. That runs a hydraulic clutch so if the hydraulics are leaking it can cause clutch release problems. This video should help you find and repair those if you have them. Save the other theories till after you take a more practical approach.
Eric you should do a video on how many problems can occur without any error codes showing :).
Your advice is good, however way too often can you take your car to the dealer with a problem and they can’t reproduce it or fail to acknowledge it is there as no errors are being produced. I just had my dealer do a service, they gave it back and it was skipping a beat once in a while and popping from the exhaust. I took it back and they declined that something could be wrong due to no codes. They had put in new spark plugs which I told them to check (gap and heat range). It got worse and I went back and still no codes. I stayed however and forced them to look over everything they did and behold, after 20 minutes the manager presented the spark plugs of which one had been dropped on the floor before being put in so the gap was significantly smaller than the others *sigh*.
Error codes are not the holy grail and customers don’t spend time off from work to mess with their mechanics 🙂 /end rant
Again this is not a reflection on you, just a story that fit the context :).
[quote=”thisisbuod” post=40104]A sensor isn’t going to create a grinding noise or any funny feeling in the shifter because when you are shifting the clutch has seperated the engine from the trans. You may just want to change the trans fluid (I’m guessing it has never been changed.) But because of the mileage and it is more pronounced between 1st and 2nd you probably just have some worn out syncronizers.[/quote]
I did say that it was was less likely, but yes it can. A slightly sticking throttle cable can do the same. I’ve only seen this in manuals however as this is all I drive (might be why you haven’t heard of it?).
It creates the same speed mismatch as pulling the clutch, revving slightly and trying to change gears. It will be hard to shift, make a clunk or a slight grind. I had a faulty MAF sensor replaced under warranty due to this issue. It was still working, but apparently off a little, hence the troublesome shifts.
It is actually also a problem on some cars that over-rev a bit when clutched, that you can’t get it into gear until the engine revs drop again.BTW isn’t there so many synchro’s in modern auto’s that transmission-engine rpm mismatch is unlikely to cause an issue?
/correction
Just read up on auto transmissions and I see that the regular version works by planet gears and torque converters and has no synchros. The common European auto’s are automatic manuals, automatic sequentials and similar advanced constructions, however not close to American prevalence.
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