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Major timing issue need help

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  • #593934
    rayray
    Participant

      I have a 2001 lexus IS300
      engine: 2jz ge

      today I replaced the cam and crank seals and put in a new adjustable cam gear
      so we put everything back together and tried to rotate the engine but it wasn’t turning so we left it right now I have the two cam gears set to 60 degrees BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER but the crank pully went out of time how do get it back on time with out bending the valves and taking of the head .
      in the pictures the dots are 60 degrees before TOP DEAD CENTER and the next marking to it is top dead center ?

      [IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/2zykl6h.jpg[/IMG]
      [IMG]http://i62.tinypic.com/210j19t.jpg[/IMG]
      [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/1zybnh0.jpg[/IMG]
      [IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/2ue0f3l.jpg[/IMG]

    Viewing 5 replies - 31 through 35 (of 35 total)
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    • #594203
      DanielDaniel
      Participant

        Not 100% sure there, thats a question for one of the more advanced guys on here to answer! I Just try to go by the books as much as possable. Get a filler gauge And check the clearance before and after you do the job. And make sure everything you remove is all tightened to spec!

        #594208
        rayray
        Participant

          This part im not really comfortable with as I never done valve measuring or adjusting . maybe you know some body on the forum that can chime in and give us a answer or msg . Im trying to go by the books as well but the way I am looking at it is if I am taking out the cam shafts that are already @ 60 DBTC and rotating the crank pulley to 60 BTDC and then reinstalling the same cam shaft since there already at 60 BDTC I cant see any reason to measure or adjust . maybe I am missing something

          question if I have both my cam gears @ 60 BTDC does that mean there open or closed ?

          #594225
          A toyotakarlIts me
          Moderator

            You are completely over-thinking this… I have already told you how to do this.. I can’t make it any clearer than I already have… You can go through the effort of removing the cams, or you can just spend 10 minutes and just move everything back into place…

            So for the last time…

            Ensure the spark plugs are removed.

            Re-install the cam sprockets.

            Re-install the crankshaft sprocket.

            Turn the Crank (any direction clockwise or counter-clockwise) to turn it to the sub timing mark… then at the same time, turn the cam sprockets clockwise toward their proper marks…… If some resistance is felt then stop.. You will not damage the valves if you just slightly come in contact with them… As a matter of fact, since you cannot turn the crank anymore, you already have hit the valves…

            As I said before, simultaneously, move the cam sprockets. They may have to completely be turned 360 degrees again… What you are doing is just putting everything in place since you are figuratively in a hole… You just have to re-set everything…

            This is not “Trial and Error” this is just moving the cams and crank back to proper position….

            I suspect you have not done many timing belts, and I am trying to assist, but I keep on repeating myself here and it does not seem to help…

            Stop talking about 60 DBTC… JUST STOP! At this point, it is irrelevant… All you need to do is just line up the marks… When the marks are lined up, then the crank will be at 60 degrees DBTC and the cams will be at 30 degrees BDTC…..Because the camshaft marks are at 30 degrees BDTC and the Crank is at 60 DBTC only when matched with their marks…… JUST MOVE THE MARKS BACK TO THE PROPER POSITIONS…. IT IS THAT EASY…… Those positions are only accurate when the marks are aligned….

            Also, you don’t have to worry about setting the clearance of the cams if you remove them…. Toyota uses buckets and these are non-shim versions, so the only way to change clearance is to get different sized buckets… each have a number according to their size….

            So with that being said… You need to move everything back to proper position, remove the lower cover and remove the crankshaft pulley, line everything up, re-set the tensioner, re-install the belt and remove the pin from the tensioner and re-install everything you have take off…. Simple… This is an easy job…

            I wish you good luck…

            -Karl

            #594288
            DanielDaniel
            Participant

              As long as your moving them by hand slowly there is no damage that can be done…just dont get a breaker bar and start prying on anything! Remove plugs so its easy to move crank, and you can see which piston(s) are coming to their tdc point. Move the crank slowly torward the correct timing mark, and if you hit a snag, look into the plug hole, and see which piston could be hitting a valve….and keep doing this untill all 3 are in correct place, and again if this seems to fail, just remove the cams put it all back in time, and replace the cams! You should not have to worry about the valvs needing to be adjusted, but it never hurts to check your work! If this is a customers car, im sure they want it back lol

              #594457
              EricTheCarGuy 1EricTheCarGuy
              Keymaster

                Toyota Karl is right, I think you’re over thinking this. You don’t need to remove the cams, and you don’t need to adjust the valves. In fact, I don’t think they’re even adjustable in the same way as they are in the honda video.

                A 4 cylinder engine fires every 180º. This means that every 180º there are 2 pistons at TDC. If you rotate the crank 90º from TDC in either direction, all the pistons will be in the center of the cylinder. This leaves plenty of room to move the camshafts because the valves will never come into contact with any of the pistons because all the pistons are half way down inside the cylinder. If you’re still unsure, remove the spark plugs and put a long screwdriver into the cylinder. This way you can watch the position of the screwdriver which can give you a relative position of the pistons.

                What Karl is saying is to position the pistons in this position, rotate the cams into the correct position for belt installation, THEN move the crank to TDC and install the belt. In my opinion, removing the cams is a waste of time and could possibly open up other issues.

                Lastly, seeing that you’re using a chain wrench on the crank is somewhat troubling. I see you have a belt there which is a good thing but know that the metal that pulley is made out of is very brittle. Use of that tool can actually break or chip the crank pulley. You’re much better off with a long breaker bar and a socket on the crank pulley in my opinion.

                Good luck and keep us posted.

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