- This topic has 12 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 3 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
hi my car is a 98 olds cutlass 3.1l v6
today i took it to the garage so they could find my coolant leak and the reason the car overheats. The came back to me with the lower intake gasket needs changing and the temperature sender needs to be changed so my radiator fans would kick on at the proper time (they turn on now, just later than they should)
the parts quote for this is 180$ witch i can probably get much cheaper online but they hit me with 700 estimated labor costs. so this brings up my questions.
Can i do this myself with a few youtube videos and little more than 30$ worth of harbor freight tools? i have no torque wrench or much of anything besides a few wrenchs and a 1/4” and 3/8” ratcher.
Will i need to remove the push rods and do they have to go back at a specific torque/clearence setting.
will it take me more than 1 day alone? (i dont actualy have a garage, just a yard)should i considered scraping the car and looking for something a little newer? besides the ac theres not much else wrong with the car but this is a pretty big deal as far as i can tell
-
Replies
-
Can you do it? It all depends on your comfort level of taking a lot of stuff apart of you can do that then yes you can do it. Of you are not comfortable take a lot of pictures of each step so that you can refer back to them. It might help if you have a few small containers that you can put nuts and bolts in and then label them so you know where they go.
Now for the good stuff. Yes you will need to remove the push rods. Yes the rocker arms are torque down when you reinstall them I believe you also need to replace the manifold bolts but it has been a while since I have done one of these so don’t quote me on that.
The push rods are not all the same length. Some are longer than others I don’t remember if the long ones go to intake or exhaust valves but it does matter where they go. Also mark your sparkplug wires so you get them back where they belong.You will need a torque wrench. If you torque the manifold down too tight it will leak and you will need it for the rocker arms as well.
This engine has a 2 piece manifold an upper plenum and then the intake itself. Replace the O ring on the heater tube too. They always leak if you don’t you gasket set should come with it so make sure you don’t lose it. You will also be replacing the valve cover gaskets as well so the alternator and bracket will have to come off to get the rear valve cover off. This is a labor intensive job so take your time and if this is your first one plan on working on it all weekendThanks for the info, this job kind of scares me to be honest, not the taking apart and getting it back together but the torquing and resealing of the engine… im shopping around the local garages for pricing and also looking for 1 that might let me watch… if i decide to do it and do something wrong im assuming the result is a nuclear meltdown on the side of the road?
edit- Does this job “require” an oil change and coolant change? i just changed the oil like a week agoI would absolutely change the oil because some coolant will get spilled internally when you remove the lower part of the manifold. I would recommend a flush because you are going to be draining the cooling system anyway but that is not real critical if you have pretty fresh coolant in the system.
This vehicle does use dexcol,and if you have been adding another type of coolant and mixed them then I would give it a proper flush it is up to you if you want to run dexcol or go with the regular green now would be the time to decide if you need to flush the systemIve been adding the “you can mix this with anything” type for a while now, so much so that the leaks are the green color of the antifreeze i been adding. the longer this day goes on the more i think im going to have to do this myself. Had the wifes friend say “if you need work done my hubby will give you a famaly discount” now that we need something done its “boss says no side work” funny how that happens >.< Cheapest ive found to get the work done is 690 but im not sure that included changing the temperature sender and thermostat 0.o -do i have valid reason to be weary of doing this repair in my driveway?
This is one of those jobs that if you are not comfortable doing it then it might be more cost effective to have it hired out
to be blantantly honest this is 1 of thoese -is it time to say good bye – moments the garange wants more than the cars actualy value or close to it to do the repair and i still dont have a working ac… but on the other hand its currently our only mode of transportation. other than this and the ac i dont know of any other mechanical issues she has
Unless you are looking at replacing it with a brand new vehicle you may be buying a vehicle with worse problems.
This is not a major repair unfortunately it is a labor intensive repair and that is why it is expensive. Good luck with what ever decision you decide to make.Ok so the wife and i have decided that i am going to do the job myself.
I need to pick up a few tools from harbor freight including a torque wrench…. here is a question or 2 that i have about the torquing..
Im looking at this website http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx?KI=12-3.1L-191ci-V6 My engine is the 3100 Sfi v6, is it the same? i dont understand the extra numbers and letters between the 3.1l and the V6
am i going to far looking at the torque for the power steering pump bolts and the thermostat housing + other parts that i donot see people in the videos mentioning a torque spec for or using a torque wrench on.
does the 14ft-lbs +30deg have to be perfect? as in should i try an line up with a protractor?
I cannot find a torque rating of the plenum? does it go hand tight without breaking the bolts? will this crush the new gasket?
Can i use gas or mineral spirits and a clean rag to clean the surfaces where the gasket will sit? and will a credit card(library card) like plastic remove the old silicone?
to do this large of a job i intent to use lots of ziplock bags and painters tape with sharpie, and i may make a list of what im taking apart to check off as it goes back together + lots of cellphone pictures in case i have to call in a real mechanic…
i know i need to changed the oil and coolant after the fix so i am getting the tools (jackstands/filter wrench) for that job but is there anything else i am possibly missing in my search for information?
Also.. to bleed the coolant system in a car where the reservoir is pressurized, do i just run the car with the tank open and add as needed while it runs?
any help is greatly appreciated, Josh
The engines are the same. The extra numbers are what the engine displaces in cubic inches instead of liters.
Yes a protractor would help you on the torque angle part of the torturing sequence. You don’t want to go past the 30 degrees or the bolt might break.
The only part of this job that I use the torque wrench on are the intake bolts and rocker arms. Just don’t go crazy and over torque everything
The are a couple of bleed screws to open while filling the system
Ok so the wife and i have decided that i am going to do the job myself.
I need to pick up a few tools from harbor freight including a torque wrench…. here is a question or 2 that i have about the torquing..
Im looking at this website http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx?KI=12-3.1L-191ci-V6 My engine is the 3100 Sfi v6, is it the same? i dont understand the extra numbers and letters between the 3.1l and the V6
Here are the specs on your engine
http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx?KI=12-3.1L-191ci-V6am i going to far looking at the torque for the power steering pump bolts and the thermostat housing + other parts that i donot see people in the videos mentioning a torque spec for or using a torque wrench on.
does the 14ft-lbs +30deg have to be perfect? as in should i try an line up with a protractor.
A simple torque angle gauge will do the trick and not expensive
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/torque-angle-toolI cannot find a torque rating of the plenum? does it go hand tight without breaking the bolts? will this crush the new gasket?
See the above specs
Can i use gas or mineral spirits and a clean rag to clean the surfaces where the gasket will sit? and will a credit card(library card) like plastic remove the old silicone?
[color=#ffbb00][b]Better to use brake cleaner or carb cleaner (leave no residue.)
As to removing the silicone… plastic scraper of any type will work, just try not to scare the metal surfaces[/b]
[/color]
to do this large of a job i intent to use lots of ziplock bags and painters tape with sharpie, and i may make a list of what im taking apart to check off as it goes back together + lots of cellphone pictures in case i have to call in a real mechanic…Pictures or taking step by step video will be quite help full
i know i need to changed the oil and coolant after the fix so i am getting the tools (jackstands/filter wrench) for that job but is there anything else i am possibly missing in my search for information?
Spill free funnel will be a good investment:
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/torque-angle-tool[color=#ffbb00]Also a load of shop towels for blocking any intake openings and cleaning up messes
A catch can for oil and antifreeze[/color]
http://www.walmart.com/ip/20440558?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227017003632&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=59234294688&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=84276145488&veh=semAlso.. to bleed the coolant system in a car where the reservoir is pressurized, do i just run the car with the tank open and add as needed while it runs?
Yes, using the spill free funnel
any help is greatly appreciated, Josh
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.