Loose front wheel

[Torbjörn Hedman]

Hi

First of all i just have to say that i’m a NOOB here and in the garage.
I have a Chrysler Voyager 2.4 2000.
My prolem started 2 – 3 days ago (after been driving on a gravel road for about 2 months.
When jacked up the left front wheel is loose/ wobbles and firm when on a flat surface.

What can it be?

Topic

[Its me]

How does it wobble?

If there is play from 12 to 6 it is generally a ball joint, 3 to 9 wobble is generally an inner tie rod… other things such as completely worn wheel bearings can also have that effect….

Best to jack it up and visually inspect those items…

Karl

[Ingvar]

Interesting. I was taught that wobble at 12 and 6 is hub bearing and to check ball joint you need a pry bar in strategic place, to pry control arm from hub.

[Its me]

[quote=”ukrkoz” post=110656]Interesting. I was taught that wobble at 12 and 6 is hub bearing and to check ball joint you need a pry bar in strategic place, to pry control arm from hub.[/quote]

It depends on whether the lower ball joint is load carrying or non load carrying.

With a McPherson strut the strut carries the load not the lower ball joint, and the lower joint is checked by the lower control arm hanging free. The lower ball joint is an unloaded follower… This being a FWD unibody Chrysler I am reasonably certain it has McPherson struts… but I was remiss in not saying that chrysler vehicles should have a wear indicator…

Karl

[Torbjörn Hedman]

Thanks alot for the answers.

As i wrote in the topic i am a NOOB in the garage but when seeing ETCG on YouTube i was hooked on trying to get things fixed by myself (Damn you Eric 😉 ).

When bleeding the brakes i just wobbled the tire 3 – 9 and have to jack up the car again to test the 6 – 12.
Will be back with a conclusion. 🙂

And again Thanks for the answers.

// The Swede

[Bryan Carter]

[quote=”ukrkoz” post=110656]Interesting. I was taught that wobble at 12 and 6 is hub bearing and to check ball joint you need a pry bar in strategic place, to pry control arm from hub.[/quote]
I’m with ToyotaKarl on this one.

[Torbjörn Hedman]

Back again.

Just got in after jacking up the car and tested 3 – 9 and 6 – 12. No movement on 6 – 12 just on 3 – 9.
Now to the fun stuff. Order, wait and installation :woohoo:

[EricTheCarGuy]

With that information I’d be looking at the tie rods both inner and outer. More info on this here.

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/determining-the-causes-of-vehicle-vibrations

http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

[Mike]

Do you hear a clunk or noise when moving the tire? Is the steering wheel locked? If not, it could just be steering movement.

Ensure the steering is locked, get an assistant if possible, and wiggle the wheel back and forth while looking at all the components behind the wheel. See if a tie rod, control arm bushing, ball joint, sway bar link, or something else I didn’t mention is moving. Finally, sometimes the CV axles will have a small amount of normal movement at the transmission. I would not be concerned with that either.

I wouldn’t replace anything without verifying what it is. Guessing is very expensive and often a big waste of time. Watch Eric’s video on diagnosing noises, too.

[Torbjörn Hedman]

Hi again

As the post before i jacked up the car yet one more time.
Checked once again 3 – 9 and 6 – 12. Just movement at 3 – 9 (on driverside).
Removed the tire and looked over all components. Felt the tie rod both outer and inner and i have movement there. So i can say to 99% that it’s the outer tie rod.

But should i change them both?

Yet an other time thanks for the answers.

// The Swede

[Mike]

Change the outer, then just snug up the castle nut and check again. Shake the hub back and forth (3-9) and also pull up and down up on the rod up towards the boot and make sure that doesn’t move either. Process of elimination. It’s most likely just the outer. Usually when you hit a bit pothole or something one of the two get damaged. It’s possible both are bad but check first before replacing parts that aren’t broken.

Either way, don’t forget that you need to get an alignment when you’re done.

[Torbjörn Hedman]

And once again i am back 🙂

Have the car jacked up and have looked at everything. Grabbed a hold of the tie rod and first tried to twist it, and then pulled it back and forward.
Twisted it without any problems :S
and it pulled it back and forward and it moves :S

So as it looks like now i have to order both outer and inner tie rod.

And once again thanks, for all the information for leading to finding the “problem”.

EDIT!
Forgot to mention that the road i have to drive everyday is full of potholes (due to road work) and i have driven down in (without lying) 100 big potholes under the summer. 🙁

// The Swede

[Lorrin Barth]

Well, only one is bad so you only need one. How long the other side will last is unknown. Personalty, if I have to get the tools out I want to do both.

[Mike]

Yup. Fortunately they’re not that expensive. (Get Moog or a decent brand; skip the super cheap ones).

Don’t forget to drive straight to a shop for an alignment when you’re done!

[Torbjörn Hedman]

Thats the “shity” thing. Just changed front wheels due to wear. and made a alaignment just 2 weeks ago :S

[Mike]

Most places will redo it for free within 6 or 12 months.

[Author]

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