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What vehicle are you planning on using it on?
For a decent budget tool i’d say consider the autel ms509. It supports the CAN (Controller Area Network) protocols and all other current OBD-II protocols. If you’ve really got some cash to spend grab the MD802The MS309 will read/clear your CEL, show whether your ECU component tests have passed/failed/pending/NA but will NOT show you live data.
I believe the MS509 is the most inexpensive version that will do the previously mentioned and show you live data/allow graphing/and supports certain component trigger tests.
You can easily find it for ~50USD on ebay anytime.Some info about eobd,obd,can can be read at
http://www.gendan.co.uk/article_5.html#what_is_eobd
http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13746_7-20002489-48.htmli dont dont really give 2 shits about live data i can get the MS509 on Amazon for the same price you mentioned however i do not need something that fancy i just want something i can clear the CEL every it comes on cuz its annoying to see it on all the time.
[quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=38264]i dont dont really give 2 shits about live data i can get the MS509 on Amazon for the same price you mentioned however i do not need something that fancy i just want something i can clear the CEL every it comes on cuz its annoying to see it on all the time.[/quote]
Rather then taking others posts in snide– how about you get a scan tool and take care of the problem properly to diagnose and remove the light.
Like Emphasis said – wouldn’t you be better off just fixing the problem rather than resetting the CEL every time the monitor runs? And depending on where you live, resetting the CEL can cause you NOT to pass the emissions inspection.
[quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=38264]i dont dont really give 2 shits about live data i can get the MS509 on Amazon for the same price you mentioned however i do not need something that fancy i just want something i can clear the CEL every it comes on cuz its annoying to see it on all the time.[/quote]
Pull the battery negative every time and there you go.
It sounds like you just want to avoid the problem and hold a blind eye at it though rather then find the root of the problem and fix it before it becomes bigger.Even if you have a scan tool it will take you a couple of minutes of effort to clear codes, so that’s not practical to just clear them just for the sake of not seeing a light. I would diagnose and then fix the problem. If the goal is to conceal a problem, you are not likely to find help here.
i know the problem it just does not fit the code it a P0342 Camshaft position sensor however i do not experience stalling that a bad or failed sensor will cause.
[quote=”001stunna” post=38306][quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=38264]i dont dont really give 2 shits about live data i can get the MS509 on Amazon for the same price you mentioned however i do not need something that fancy i just want something i can clear the CEL every it comes on cuz its annoying to see it on all the time.[/quote]
Pull the battery negative every time and there you go.
It sounds like you just want to avoid the problem and hold a blind eye at it though rather then find the root of the problem and fix it before it becomes bigger.[/quote]That i would do but then id have to reprogram the clock and stereo sound settings. I know the problem it just does not fit the code the cars throwing P0342 CPS i do not experice the symtoms of a bad/failing CPS.
The sensors are there to let you know of a potential problem before it becomes acute or catastrophic. This thread gave you some pretty good advise from others as to what should be done, and the likely causes.
You seem to have the misconception the links provided in the other thread are the only possible reasons and/or symptoms to this specific code. Your sensor can be bad and your car not stall out for instance. The one link in particular also doesn’t list some of the more oddball reasons, as it’s a magnetic field reading it’s susceptible in many cases to RFI/EMI. Which can have a number of causes, a bad ground, voltage regulator from the alternator spewing garbage out, voltage leak from ignition wiring, etc..
To verify the sensor you’d need to scope it, but you could still quite easily do basic readings by getting a simple wiring diagram and/or tracing the wiring to get readings from where they go into the PCM/ECU. Not verifying why this is on at the least is inviting a far greater set of annoyances.
Buying a scan tool so you can clear it at will isn’t going to make that light go away btw. This isn’t one of those sensors that gets checked every few drive cycles..
I bought a.novia.obd2.scan tool at.the local.parts.store.on sale was.197.00 paid.89.00 on sale i.have.not used it yet and.have. No coment.on which.is better but i will find.out i am sure good.luck.
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