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Hi Eric, I want to ask you about a strange issue that I have with my 2000 Hyundai Elantra.
It’s a 2.0 L engine, automatic transmission by the way…
Ok, so basically, every single time I fill up the fuel tank, the car takes a long time to start. I’m always cranking up like a minute until the engine stars. I’m not sure if it’s the pump, because it works just “Ok” when i use it normally, son… any clue?
Thanks, and You’re Awesome… thumbs up.
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I believe there is a TSB on that problem. I’ll try to find info on it for you. Fuel vapours are filling up the intake manifold when refueling giving you the hard start.
Yeah…. the purge control valve in the tank evap system is stuck open. They can stick from age or can get a piece of charcoal stuck in it from the charcoal canister. It may also need replacing.
I’d defiantly look into that TSB. You might also try starting the car with your foot floored on the accelerator. When you do this it shuts off fuel to the injectors. Or at least it’s suppose to. It’s called ‘clear flood mode’. If the engine starts right up when you do this, there may be some credit to the theory that the purge solenoid is allowing fuel vapors into the intake during fueling. Keep us posted on what you find.
Well, having the gas pedal to the floor did somewhat helped. In fact, the time it took to start was quite lower, but still longer than expected. Curiously, the car responded a bit better during normal circulation, so I guess it helped. Thanks. I was about to get the code for my “Check Engine” light, but my tester died months ago. Was bluetooth, and got burned up. If I guess properly, it may probably be something with the evap system. It makes sense to me…
About a year ago my fiance’s 2008 Saturn vue had this very same problem. After fueling it would take 2-3 tries for the car to start, and she would sometimes have to push the gas pedal a bit. I think she also complained of a gas smell inside the car from time to time.
I believe there was a engine code associated with the problem (I forget it), but the problem was a bad EVAP purge valve. I replaced the unit, and the problem was gone at the next fill up.
As a simple test – you can pull the evap purge valve off of the car and see if you can blow any air through it with your mouth. If air goes through, the valve is leaking, and it needs to be replaced.
Another update:
I fill the tank again, just to see how much improvement holding the gas to the floor did. So, today the problem insisted, in fact, the pedal trick didn’t help. I guess I’ll change the EVAP valve, but I’m a bit confused… looking for some pictures of it, I figured out that the valve in my model is at the engine compartment, near the brake fluid canister. Google says it’s at the back, aside the replacement wheel, behind the left rear tire. So, which one is for my 2000 Elantra? Is there two of these valves? If so, which one should I replace? It is true that these cars have a disfunctional EVAP system that cloaks easily?
In fact, how does the EVAP Evaporative Emission Control System works?[quote=”TheXDS” post=71713]Another update:
I fill the tank again, just to see how much improvement holding the gas to the floor did. So, today the problem insisted, in fact, the pedal trick didn’t help. I guess I’ll change the EVAP valve, but I’m a bit confused… looking for some pictures of it, I figured out that the valve in my model is at the engine compartment, near the brake fluid canister. Google says it’s at the back, aside the replacement wheel, behind the left rear tire. So, which one is for my 2000 Elantra? Is there two of these valves? If so, which one should I replace? It is true that these cars have a disfunctional EVAP system that cloaks easily?
In fact, how does the EVAP Evaporative Emission Control System works?[/quote]Please don’t go blindly replacing parts. Especially on a system you don’t understand. Look up the TSB, read what it has to say, and see if it applies to your vehicle. Diagnosis is NOT a guessing game. You can win if you put in the time and effort. If you don’t want to take the time to diagnose the problem, feel free to throw all the parts at it you like. I’m sure your parts provider will be happy to see you. BTW, they don’t take returns on emissions or electrical parts.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=72102][quote=”TheXDS” post=71713]Another update:
I fill the tank again, just to see how much improvement holding the gas to the floor did. So, today the problem insisted, in fact, the pedal trick didn’t help. I guess I’ll change the EVAP valve, but I’m a bit confused… looking for some pictures of it, I figured out that the valve in my model is at the engine compartment, near the brake fluid canister. Google says it’s at the back, aside the replacement wheel, behind the left rear tire. So, which one is for my 2000 Elantra? Is there two of these valves? If so, which one should I replace? It is true that these cars have a disfunctional EVAP system that cloaks easily?
In fact, how does the EVAP Evaporative Emission Control System works?[/quote]Please don’t go blindly replacing parts. Especially on a system you don’t understand. Look up the TSB, read what it has to say, and see if it applies to your vehicle. Diagnosis is NOT a guessing game. You can win if you put in the time and effort. If you don’t want to take the time to diagnose the problem, feel free to throw all the parts at it you like. I’m sure your parts provider will be happy to see you. BTW, they don’t take returns on emissions or electrical parts.[/quote]
+1 to what Eric said. You can’t go about trying to do a repair when you don’t even know what/where the components are on your vehicle. Spend the time to get a working knowledge of your specific vehicle…it will save you time in the long run.
Thanks for the support… And, yes, I know that I have to get the experience, but I’m a driver, not a technician, and I was seeing it from the do-it-yourself perspective. Anyway, I’m seriously consireding sell that poor car and use the bus a bit until I can buy something else, probably a Subaru Impreza… hehehe Gotta love that car.
Now, back onto the theme, right now, my car is on a shop for a diagnosis for that problem. As you said, I should not “guess” what the failure is, so I’m leaving it to the technicians.Well, as all of you suspected, the EVAP purge valve was stuck open, but by electrical problems. The pressure sensor was also misreading fuel gas pressure, and letting the tank fill up with it. so, sometimes, the gas escaped trhough the cap when refueling (stopping the gas station pump constantly). It will stay a bit there, because the guy has to make another cars, and finding that particular fault in the electrical systen will took a while.
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