list of things to do

[dan]

my car has a lot of things that i need to do first, the transmission is acting funny when it warms up, i would like too get that sorted out first.

i would like to get a nice set of springs and struts all around, the back springs about had enough and the car sort of sags in the back, it could use new suspension…

i have a bent lower control arm adjuster link, right rear track rod, what ever it is, but it causes my car to dog track just slightly… i want too replace that

the gas tank filler neck needs replaced and is turning the engine light on beacuse its probably rusted too peaces.

once i get all the suspension components replaced i want to get a set of new tires for the car… P225/60R16s… maybe some more performance oreanted tires

get the wheels painted a more gun metal finish or just black.

as far as costomization i want to do a L-67 throttle body and fuel injector swap and possibly swap for a series III upper plenum as they are made of aluminum rather than plastic if its swappable, get some high performance wires and ignition coils… a K$N cold air intake and all that fun stuff… maybe even some performance rockers and pushrods…

Topic

[Matthew Sumrada]

I have a lot of work to do too, man. My mind sets an order for things, but the importance levels jump all over the place really quickly. :pinch:

1. Replace fluids; !!!!engine oil!!!, manual transmission oil, brake, haldex. .
2. Find and install wheel adapters so I can finally put on my favorite wheels and sell the alloys which came on the car.
3. Filters; cabin, clean my K&N cone (going back to wak box), fuel filter, oil filter, haldex filter ( 👿 )
4. Prepare :sick: , prime :whistle: , paint B) roof
5. Other; buff out key marks/love swirls, spark plugs in 5k (thanks, ethanol-infused gasoline), Lysol HVAC system, clean MAF frequently
6. Parts; replace rear calipers/rotors with refurbished ones/stainless brake lines, rear drive axles, silicone hoses/vacuum lines, wiper blades, O2 sensor (upstream on DP and impossible as of yet), front and rear struts/shocks :angry: ,
7. Fix; automatic window mechanism (auto-lowers when door is opened/closed to avoid extreme pressure in cabin), passenger window tint, big passenger side dents (one in door, one in rear fender). :unsure:

Suggestions concerning the upgrades you suggested you may add..

Before anything else, find a great transmission place, and get to know the owner.

Second, sort out any possibility that your car is not in a condition to be aligned.

Check engine lights can keep you from passing even a basic inspection, so work out the most important issues utilizing codes rather than tossing parts like a darn salad.

Don’t waste money on “performance” tires. Buy some decent used rubbers ($160 for a set of four perfectly decent tires with more than ample tread left), and drive like a drugged moose (no burnouts). Too many manufacturers get away with our hard-earned money, and in return you get a set of tires which your car may or may not be able to take full advantage of. Will you be doing any track driving? If not, I’d stick to ecos for a while and budget for the important stuff – it’s just smarter, and you can’t regret it. Two, or even three, sets of cheapos costs less than one set of retail rubbers (and I betcha you could make them last longer, too). Not all used tires are generics either 😉

Don’t replace stock ignition wires unless they’re falling to pieces. Most factory wires are bulletproof unless physically compromised, and far too many ignition problems actually start appearing. They might seem ugly on the outside, but the car was made for them in particular and vice-versa. There are many sealing agents that can be applied to spark plugs if the connection isn’t perfect (ask any auto tech). It’s a bonding experience :blush:

If you are serious about power and reliability, opt for a crate motor with a warranty. Do it by the book and the book will be there to back you up.

K&N filters are more like K$N after all is said and done. One must purchase countless sprays and oils for an already outlandishly expensive device that decreases engine output. K&Ns must be maintained not just set it and forget it. Save yourself and stick to modifying your stock box (unless you’re doing a full-on induction hose). There are countless DIY performance forums for any given vehicle – especially domestics.

Coilovers are also a waste frankly. Lowered cars are automatically rejected by many buyers, and many car lovers don’t want the headaches of spring adjustment. Locate a low-mileage OEM set at a salvage lot, and make a road trip out of it.

My mantra: if there’s any substantial rust, there’s nothing to upgrade inside the engine yet
I’d try SeaFoam before even touching a valve cover. That’s the smoke you want to see. banana:

Take your time with the wheels, and it’ll help the car. That means taking them off of the car for prep/paint, and working towards finish evenness at all costs. Kbb.com will thank you.

[Author]

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