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My buddy is saying that his car hesitates when you first pushes down on the throttle. Now I have done some researching and found that changing out the throttle positioning sensor might fix this. Is there anything else I should look at too just in case and so he doesn’t have to pay more for something that isn’t broken?
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It’s possible that the TPS is causing the problem but worn spark plugs, low fuel pressure, dirty fuel injectors, failing mass airflow sensor and I could go on and on.
The car needs to be diagnosed by someone knowledgeable to avoid throwing money at it in hopes of finding the correct faulty part(s)
Do you have a decent scantool that can read live data? Any Check Engine Light? Trying to diagnose without a good scantool will be next to impossible.
Thank you both and no I don’t have a scan tool and no check engine light. We are replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils since they have to be replaced anyway. Plus most of his fluids need to be replaced too. We’ll see if the problem is fixed with what has to be done if not then get it diagnosed.
You should do the easy stuff that don’t cost money first. Check for vacuum leakes (PCV system on Fords tend to break down and cause problems) Clean the MAF, Clean the IAC. You should always try to find the cause and not throw a bunch of parts at it. A scanner is a good tool if you know how to use it.
Sounds like a good starting point, basic maintenance, but don’t be discouraged if that doesn’t fully fix the issue. Proper diagnosis tools will be required to pinpoint the issue.
If you have a laptop running windows, you can get a fairly inexpensive scan tool to read live data. I would recommend http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-423001-ElmScan-Diagnostic-Software/dp/B002PYBZJO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1391118306&sr=8-5&keywords=obd2+usb
You can get cheaper ones, but they are generally not very good, it’s crap shoot with the copies in china. But that one comes with OBDWiz software that will allow you to view a decent about of generic obd2 data. You should be able to use it to view throttle position, and see if that is your issue. You will want to see a smooth increase of throttle position as you step on the accelerator, if you see jumpy readings, you will know your TPS is probably at fault. If not, you will have to dive deeper.
I would recommend looking at fuel trips, great video on that: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRX2V6_a3dc
You don’t want to start by replacing parts. If you do replace parts, start with the tune up stuff as suggested. The fact that you don’t have a check engine light means it’s likely something basic and does not involve the TPS. As for the scan tool, those are pretty affordable these days, it just depends on how many features you get. Just be sure to get one that can display live data as suggested. More info in this article.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues
Keep us posted.
Lol thank you again Eric. Can’t wait for my next project to share which is a chevy cobalt believe it’s a 2013 and the abs/traction control lights are already on. Instinct tells me it’s not the mechanical part itself and not the main computer. I’m thinking it’s the actual monitoring device but like everyone says and what I’m going to do is trust but verify.
So all I could get done was change the spark plugs and the oil. I’ll say this I hope I never have to change spark plugs on that car again. Pain in the butt just to get the covers off that seal up the ignition coils. On top of that who ever did his last oil change didn’t tell him his threads on the upper portion were gone plus no plug gasket. I have reason to believe there’s no gasket for the oil pan too seeing how there no space between the two areas.
Now question about spark plugs. Everything looked good for a used spark plug but there was this slimy oily looking stuff on the threads, I have never come across that any ideas? I thought it was oil or fuel but it’s too thick to be that.
It’s probably just anti-seize compound, nothing to be to worried about. Some people put it on the threads of spark plugs to make them easier to get out when they need to. The idea is that the steel that the spark plug threads are made of can chemically react with the aluminum head, causing damage on removal. If the manufacturer of the engine calls for anti-seize on the spark plugs, make sure to just put a very small coating on the threads, making sure not to contact the porcelain or electrode.
As for the oil pan, some cars don’t have gaskets, and just call for RTV. This is something you have to check for in the Factory Service Manual, or FSM. You can buy one from the manufacturer, or I recommend AllData (http://www.alldatadiy.com/). They have the FSM, but all online and searchable, and updated with the latest TSB’s, or Technical Service Bulletins.
Are you saying the threads on the oil pan drain bolt are gone? If so, how did the plug stay in?
EDIT: Also, if you do end up using alldata, you can get a year for $9.95 with the coupon code NEWDIY2013
The plug had some thread on the bottom so it basically sits in there. My friend is ordering a new one with the correct gasket.
I ask autozone a lot for items like this and don’t plan on getting any manuals at this time since I’m moving. Autozone and oreilly both say there’s an oil pan gasket. For now I am going to agree with that unless anyone else has ever worked on the v8 version of this car.
Parts guys are parts guys, they are not mechanics. Not to offend any parts guys, but it’s not their job to check for fitment or application of said parts, just to get you the parts. I still would highly recommend alldata, as for $10/year you can get a searchable online FSM that you will never loose/get dirty.
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