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’70 Chevelle 350 2bbl
-surging on acceleration
-left front tire wore out on the outside in less than 5000 miles
Neither the numerous mechanics nor the GM Engineer that looked at it could fix either problem.’90 Taurus
-stalling and rough idle
-on long road trips after about 2 hours of driving, a damper inside the dash would close and then no more AC until the car cooled down completely
Numerous mechanics tried and failed to fix these problems
-AC compressor failure
-numerous CV joint replacements
all w/ less than 70,000 miles
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Do you still own the chevelle and are you still trying to fix the probs ? I have a ’69 chevelle. I shudder anytime I see a taurus .. lol.Quoted From mkc:
’70 Chevelle 350 2bbl
-surging on acceleration
-left front tire wore out on the outside in less than 5000 miles
Neither the numerous mechanics nor the GM Engineer that looked at it could fix either problem.’90 Taurus
-stalling and rough idle
-on long road trips after about 2 hours of driving, a damper inside the dash would close and then no more AC until the car cooled down completely
Numerous mechanics tried and failed to fix these problems
-AC compressor failure
-numerous CV joint replacements
all w/ less than 70,000 milesall pontiac brands suck, chevette, all late 80’s chevy=beretta, etc,,,ford tauras, keep it simple=honda for life….
I don’t have a “least favorite car” just “least favorite car owners.”
I guess if I had to pick a least favorite car, I would pick VWs.
I hate working on rust-buckets, regardless of brand. Unfortunately, I live in northern Virginia, where they salt the Earth at the first hint of snow, regardless of if the weather is below freezing or not, so of course everything I work on is a rust bucket. Here are some of the rust-related problems that I’ve run into in recent memory.
2000 Ford Tortise, New York car, made almost entirely of rust, came in needing struts all the way around, rear swaybar endlinks, and a front swaybar. To replace the front swaybar, I don’t know any other way to get it out beyond lowering the subframe. The first subframe bolt I put a wrench on sheared off. After the customer heard how much it was going to cost to fix that problem, he decided to just replace the car.
1997 Ford F-250, spends most of it’s life sitting in someone’s lawn until he decides to use it to tow his boat down to the seashore. Also a rust bucket. Customer complaint of a gas smell. The bottom of the gas tank was perforated with rusty pinholes, and of course the tank was 7/8th full. I recommend to the manager that we send the truck down the road, because we really don’t want to get into dealing with all the under-carriage rust. Manager sells the job anyway. Long story short, We now have to replace the bed and weld new braces into the frame where the gas-tank straps used to bolt on, due to everything that broke during removal.
1990 Mercedes-Benz 240D. Came in for an alignment. Both tie-rods sheared off when I tried to loosen the jam-nuts, and I wasn’t even using any of my long tools, just my standard length 22mm wrench. Had to replace most of the steering components when I tried to replace the broken tie-rods, due to otehr things breaking.
1983 Volvo. Came in after sitting next to a pond for 4 or 5 years, the owner had decided that he wanted to start driving it again. The seat fell through the floor when I got in the car to bring it into the shop. Apparently automotive carpet isn’t strong enough to hold up a man that weighs 300 pounds all by it’s lonesome. The metal part of the floor had completely rusted away.
2005 Chevy Silverado 2500, needed fuel lines from the tank all the way to the fuel rails. I needed to cut the old lines to get them off without removing the torsion bars. I normally would have just pulled the torsion bars out, but they were rusted in place and nothing would budge them. There is literally no way to replace those fuel lines in one piece with the torsion bars still in the truck, so i had to cut the new lines and splice in my own rubber tubing.
There’s more, but I think I’ve typed enough for right now.
Anything European sucks. Anything. Why do they have to make everything ass backwards? Why are Audi tie-rods connected at the top of the steering knuckle, making alignments a HUGE pain in the ass? Why do all European cars have a 14 step process to reset the oil light? WHY DONT LATE MODEL BMWS HAVE DIPSTICKS????!?!?!?! AAAAAAHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I HATE EM ALL
Easy. Anything made by GM after 1972. I hate ’em all. I owned a 1979 Chevy Malibu, a 1986 Chevy Spectrum (aka re-badged Isuzu) and a 1995 Saturn SL-1. They were all made by fingerless monkeys on a Friday. Seriously, they got more mileage going up and down on shop lifts than they got going foward or backward.
Not a big fan of Volkswagon either since you need to buy expensive proprietary tools to do something as simple as a brake job.
My wife’s minivan (Caravan). Not only has it gone thru 2 water pumps, a fuel pump, the rear brake wheel cylinders, 2 sets of stabilizer bar links, and the alternator before 85,000 miles but she’s got it all decked out in Tinkerbell to add insult to injury. Nothing like pulling up with Tinklerbell floor mats, seat covers, license plate, and steering wheel cover!!!
Quoted From hondaslave1342:
all pontiac brands suck, chevette, all late 80’s chevy=beretta, etc,,,ford tauras, keep it simple=honda for life….
Agreed on the Honda. My Civic is about to hit 100k miles and I have spent ZERO dollars on any repairs. Only done brakes, oil changes, and ATF changes.
Just about any American made car and some of the European’s
I’m a jap man! I love Honda’s, Toyota’s, Nissan’s, ect.
Couldn’t agree more with Misterericsir. I did the dumbest thing in 03 when I traded in my very reliable 99 Subie Outback for a Grand Caravan Sport. With kid #3 coming we needed something with more room.
1. Bought in Jan of 03, from the get go the AT shifting from 1st to 2nd is rough (clunks each time) told by dealer the AT electronics are simply learning my driving style and it will lessen with time. Never does.
2. Jan – By second week, main power steering hose had a fissure and leaked AT fluid all over my driveway.
2. Feb – same thing but this time the second hose went.
3. Feb – Main serpentine belt gets pushed off of pulleys because of ice. Major design flaw with the windshield weeping holes draining onto the AC compressor pulley which caused the belt to fall off (at 8 pm Friday night with the van filled with all the kids and gear ready to visit grandma for the weekend) needless to say we didn’t get any of grandma’s cookies that weekend.
4. March – Power steering hose failure AGAIN.
5. April – Actuator in rear door fails opening tailgate while driving in so bombing the car behind with a bag of groceries.
6. April – Power steering hose failure one more time.
7. June – Get recall for tailgate actuator and they also do the recall for the power steering hoses.
8. August – Front bushings are shot and need replacement. Chrysler tech tells me that it’s normal, that some of their cars need to replace the bushings 2 if not 3 times a year. WTF?
9. Nov – Told by dealer van needs full brake job on front wheels and pads on rear (with 25,000 KM on it). Kindly suggesting I get the Chrysler 5 star pads for $395 CAN for the front. When asked how long I should expect $395 pads to last I’m told “oh about the same as the originals on the van.” I fall on floor laughing.10… water pump, AT drive train sensor failed, driver side electric window motor wearing out (in 2 yrs!!), parking brake linkage, rust under the whole hood (even though I got the car spray oil weatherized), rust coming through paint on tailgate and windshield A frame, spare tire lowering mechanism seizing from rust, more front end bushings (replaced 3 times in 4 years), front stabilizer linkage, rear tail light assembly.
I probably paid more in repairs then what the van was worth. Needles to say, I don’t care what people tell me about Chrysler as a brand, I will never touch that POS brand ever again.
On the up side, TInkerbell wasn’t on my floor mats.
Junk @$$ foreign sh1t! STOP flying my country’s flag on your foreign, cracker-jack cars!
Wild dream car: 1932 Ford 3 Window Coupe ‘glass repro body on ’32 frame. Rear fenders bobbed, no running boards or front fenders. Grille Chopped 2″ Nose, deck, and top chopped. Open engine, zumies. 565 CID Chevy pumping 2500BHP on Alcohol with Blower. Sloburated. Goals/reason why? 1/4 mile ET. 6.00
Honda and toyota owner here!!!
Owned a ford and still own a chev, but will never purchase either again, over priced under engineered junk…
None of the big three should even be in business, if anyone ran their business like those are run they would be bankrupt and would never get a cent of our tax money to help them out!
My toyota 350 000km still going strong
300 000km on my accord runs great all original engine and powertrain!!!One word summarize this this reply: VOLKSWAGENHA … Anything German Engineered. I am German and I hate the junk. I have owned six cars since 2003. I personally believe in Honda. I am on my second one and love it dearly. Three.. yes THREE were VW. . If it wasn’t for my wife I would have burned my Jetta by now. Bought it for her as a anniversary gift last year. Honda from 2007-present: Cost!? oil, brakes and one hub…”Yeah Baby”
VW: in one year I personally rebuilt/replaced myself, the alternator, power steering pump, battery, cleaned and adjusted throttle body, all new gaskets for intake, valve cover, tons,,, TONS of electrical problems.. replaced rear axle bushings, all new brakes, window regulator, radiator, Starting issues, Exhaust ….etc… basically every week something new went, and still does. LOL ah I hate that car… wont bore you with a huge list of everything here!
Thanks to Eric and many others on here I can positively say I spent only 500 bucks in parts on a car that priced at the dealer would have been over $3000!
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