Leaking Break Booster

[Brendan Morgan]

I have a leaking brake booster with the air escape from behind the master cylinder on my 2003 ford escape. Please see video through this link and read details below. Feel free to elaborate. Thanks!

About 99% sure it is the seal on the front side of the booster where it connects to Master Break Cylinder and yes i did try to stop it with aluminum tape while i wait for a replacement booster that I have just purchased. So far this is my only serious issue because when idling the RPMs drops and on 2 occasion so far, stalled the engine. I have ordered a replacement booster but would like input from others on diagnosis. See below for more details:

1- Carfaxed the car before I got it and the master cylinder was replaced last year but not the booster. You can see where the old master was leaking onto the front of the booster. i am thinking that the old booster is leaking due to the fluid ruining the seal around the rod.

2- When idling or at a light the rpms have some movement and i keep thinking it is going to stall. I am thinking this because I have read that when idling the car demands more vacuum, true?

3- Brake pedal is not hard to push and if anything it is soft. Also the brake fluid is not leaking. I have been checking the level daily.

Stay Dirty!!!!

Topic

[college man]

What you could do is pull the vac booster line and cap it
with your finger to see if idle returns to normal. If the
noise in the video is the vacuum leak I was hearing. its
pretty big.

[Brendan Morgan]

OK thanks I will give that a try, drove it for a short distance and i think the leak is getting worst because it stalled on me twice, hoping now it is just the leak

[EricTheCarGuy]

You may not even have to remove the line and cap it. You could also just pinch it with a set of pliers to do a similar test.

It’s not common practice to replace a booster with a master cylinder replacement. You usually replace just one or the other.

The symptoms you describe do sound like an issue with the booster however. Try to verify that before you dive in to replace it though.

Keep us posted.

[Brendan Morgan]

I am back again with no solution in sight. I have a video of the idle issue please watch below and see the description below:

extended idle rev and drop before check engine light came on

2003 Ford Escape

I am having an issue with my escape at idle. I have done several things to try and fix this:

1- Changed the brake booster, though I had a serious vacuum leak but I think the booster was only part of the problem.
2- Removed the IAC and cleaned it with carb cleaner. This did not help.
3- Removed the air intake and cleaned the throttle body. This also did not help.

I have sprayed both soapy water and carb cleaner around vacuum hoses and intake gaskets trying to look for hissing sound I keep hearing, with no luck. I also tried to feel around the top of the engine for air leaks with no luck. Finally the check engine light came on with the codes shown in the video. I feel like the air leak sound is coming from the back of the engine, possibly an exhaust manifold, pcv issue, bad O2 sensors, or lower intake?

[Brendan Morgan]

Edited my last post and added new videos, please let me know what you think!

[college man]

see if this helps.

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/6urf5-getting-codes-p2195-p2197-2003-ford-escape-do.html

http://www.justanswer.com/car/4082r-diagnosis-p2197-trouble-code.html

[Brendan Morgan]

Thanks again, anyone know where I can get a repair guide for the intake gaskets if I do need to replace them? I didn’t want to buy the books or online subscription and autozones info is not that detailed

[college man]

[quote=”T.Dallas1215″ post=88615]Thanks again, anyone know where I can get a repair guide for the intake gaskets if I do need to replace them? I didn’t want to buy the books or online subscription and autozones info is not that detailed[/quote]

Try ebay. I have had good luck with the cd version.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2053587.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X2003+escape+service+manual&_nkw=2003+escape+service+manual&_sacat=0&_from=R40

[Brendan Morgan]

Ok, I will look into those. I did find a decent “how to” for the manifold gaskets. The is below but you may have to create a username to view it. I also included the directions but the photos did not copy over. Very detailed with the photos!

http://www.escape-city.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=9143&p=161475&hilit=lower+intake#p161475

Upper Intake Manifold

Removal
1.Remove the air cleaner outlet tube.1.Remove the crankcase ventilation tube.
2.Loosen the clamps.
3.Remove the air cleaner outlet tube. You may need to disconnect the MAF and loosen the airbox clips in order to remove the tube.
Image

2.Remove the three nuts and the engine appearance cover. (8 mm)
Image

3.Disconnect the cables.1.Disconnect the throttle cable.
2.If equipped, disconnect the speed control cable.
3.Remove the bolts (8 mm) for the throttle cable brackets.
Image

4.Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) electrical connectors.
Image

5.Disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve vacuum hose and EGR tube nut (1-1/16″).
Image

6.Disconnect the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid electrical connector and vacuum hose.
Image

7.Disconnect the three vacuum hoses on the back of the intake manifold.1.Disconnect the chassis vacuum hose.
2.Disconnect the engine vacuum hose.
3.Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
Image

8.Disconnect the vapor management valve (VMV) hose.
Image

9.Disconnect the two electrical connectors attached to the left side of the upper intake manifold.
Image

10.Disconnect the power steering pressure (PSP) sensor electrical connector.
Image

11.Remove the bolt (8 mm) and position the transmission vent hose and bracket aside.
Image

12.Remove the nut (8 mm) from the main wire harness.
Image

13.Remove the eight bolts (8 mm) and the upper intake manifold.◦Remove and discard the gaskets.
◦Clean all sealing surfaces.
Image

Lower Intake Manifold

Removal

1.Disconnect the fuel hose spring lock coupling. Using a Ford fuel and A/C line quick connect tool, find the configuration that snugly fits around the fuel line. Press the flange into the quick connect and pull the male end (driver’s side) out of the fitting.
Image

2.Disconnect the fuel rail.1.Disconnect the six fuel injector electrical connectors and wire harness locators.
2.Disconnect the fuel pressure damper vacuum hose.
3.Release the wire harness retainers from the fuel injection supply manifold.
Image

3.Remove the bolts and the lower intake manifold. Remove and discard the gaskets.
Image

Installation
1.Clean and inspect all mating surfaces.

2.Install new gaskets in the lower intake manifold. To aid in fitment, use a small dab of grease on your finger to run over the gasket. The grease should go on invisible aside from making the gasket shinier.
Image

3.Install the lower intake manifold assembly and tighten the bolts to 10 N-m (89 lb-in) in the sequence shown.
Image

4.Connect the fuel rail.
◦Position the wire harness locators and connect the six fuel injector electrical connectors.
◦Connect the fuel pressure damper vacuum hose.
◦Connect the fuel injection harness to the fuel supply manifold.

5.Connect the fuel hose spring lock coupling.
Upper Intake Manifold

Installation

1.Install new gaskets in the upper intake manifold. To aid in fitment, use a small dab of grease on your finger to run over the gasket. The grease should go on invisible aside from making the gasket shinier.
Image

2.Position the upper intake manifold and tighten the bolts to 10 N-m (89 lb-in) in the sequence shown.
Image

3.Connect the PSP electrical connector.

4.Position the transmission vent tube and bracket and install the bolt to 10 N-m (89 lb-in).

5.Position the main wire harness and install the nut to 10 N-m (89 lb-in).

6.Install the two electrical connectors on the left side of the intake manifold.

7.Install the vapor management valve (VMV) vacuum hose.

8.Connect the three vacuum hoses on the back of the upper intake manifold.◦Connect the chassis vacuum hose.
◦Connect the engine vacuum hose.
◦Connect the PCV hose.

9.Connect the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid electrical connector and the vacuum hose.

10.Install the EGR valve vacuum hose and EGR tube nut.

11.Connect the TP sensor and IAC electrical connectors.

12.Connect the throttle cables.◦Install the throttle cable brackets to 10 N-m (89 lb-in).
◦Connect the throttle cable.
◦If equipped, connect the speed control cable.

13.Install the air cleaner outlet tube.◦Position the air cleaner outlet tube.
◦Install the crankcase ventilation tube.
◦Install the clamps.

14.Install the engine appearance cover, and you’re done!
Image

[Bill]

Be sure that the EGR valve is not stuck open before you tear into the intake gasket.

[EricTheCarGuy]

Keep us posted on how the gasket replacement goes and if that solves the problem.

[Brendan Morgan]

I will definitely keep you post, here are my latest videos. I clamped off the brake booster line and started the engine. It sounds more quite but the idle is still poor and now the rpm’s when reved up stay high for an extended period than normal as seen in video. Definitely frustrated, i don’t want to throw parts at it but i think the gaskets maybe a good place to start even though i do not think there is a leak after I basically soaked the engine in soap water with no idle change.
If there is no vacuum leak and I still have the P2195 and P2197 codes, is there a usually suspect?

[EricTheCarGuy]

The codes are for a lean condition and you still hear what sounds like a vacuum leak at the back of the engine. You may have to do an exploratory on the back of the engine to see if you can find the problem. Everything at this point seems to lead toward a vacuum leak issue.

Keep us posted.

[Brendan Morgan]

Hi I am back again, today I pushed my automotive abilities and believe I have changed the upper and lower intake gaskets, iac gasket, and all 6 spark plugs. The bad news is that once I was, I still had the low idle issue. Here are a two short videos of my first attempt at opening up the engine (see below). After i got everything back together the engine sounded like a compressor with a hiss then cut-off then slow his again (eventually died at idle). See the prior video for low idle issue. Not sure what there is left to do, I might end up taking it to an experienced mechanic. Also wanted to add that it looks like the rear three coils looked to be after-market compared to the front three.

Also see attachment for pic of sparkplugs two had small amounts of oil (a few drops) in the spark plug chamber #4 and #5 spark plug to be exact.
Firing Order
123
456

Attachments:

• sparkplug1.jpg

[Brendan Morgan]

Ok it has been some time but between the weather and work, I have not had a lot of free time. Some to keep this short and sweet see the list of repairs I have made with a brief description:

1)I threw a used brake booster on trying to get rid of a big leak, causing me to removed the master cylinder (which was only a year old). Mind now that I had no brakes after and still had a stalling issue.

2) I decided to change the upper and lover intake gaskets along with all new motorcraft spark plugs. I believe cylinder 4 had a small amount of oil in the SP well. Upon inspection I also discover the three rear coils were aftermarket. after this small tune up I still had the issue of rough idle and stalling while in park because I had not had a chance to bleed the brakes.

3) I go to bleed the brakes one night, starting with the rear passenger, much to my dismay snap!, the brake bleeder broke flush with the wheel cylinder.

4) Car sat for some time, I did some more research, and decided to replace the iac valve after I had cleaned it because it still looked gunked up. I went the affordable route and purchased an aftermarket AZ iac valve. After comparing both parts I noticed the aftermarket iac had a spring on the interior rod and the one I took off did not, normal? This definitely made a different with the high idle issue when the throttle was applied but not the low rpm, caused by a vacuum leak.

5) After some more time I started to attack any vacuum hoses. I replaced the pcv valve buried in between the lower intakes, along with the pcv hoses that connect the plastic elbows and after running the car I realized the only part of the pcv hose I didn’t change was the connection with the upper intake, and that was collapsing after warming up.

6) I then discovered that the crank case ventilation hose also had bad rubber elbows where it meets up with the valve cover. Had a hard time locating aftermarket replacement and the ones I did find were in the same range as dealership so I went and replace that.

7) Now to address my brakes I had neglected to bleed I need some help. My Uncle has a mechanic neighbor that came to my car and replaced the two rear wheel cylinders ($14.00 each). I now had brakes again!!! but still a low rpm at idle issue.

8) After racking my head, knowing the leak was related to the brake booster area and stopping the leak after plugging the vacuum line, I looked at a new booster and master online and then it hit me! many of the masters online had an approx 2 inch o-ring sealing the master to the booster. I went out the next day and unbolted the master and eureka!!!!! NO o-ring present. I did hear some say it doesn’t need it online but I know this was the issue all along!! I couldn’t find an the o-ring in the three major auto parts stores but did find an assortment pack in one with an o-ring that fit perfectly. I installed it and leak was finally GONE!!!!

9) Current issue is now a misfire in cylinder 4 which was the one that had some oil in it. I am planning on replacing the valve cover gaskets soon, I haven’t inspected the well but I am thinking it may be oil or a bad coil. To be continued………… Have any questions let me know!

[Author]

Replies