- This topic has 10 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 5 months ago by
.
-
Topic
-
Hi, I’m new here and I hope I’m posting my question in the right place. I’ve been having a vibration issue with my 2005 Land Rover LR3. When I’m in reverse and turn the steering wheel to the right I start to get a vibration and “chattering”/”grinding” noise about 3/4 of the way into the turn. Now the grinding noise isn’t like a gear grinding but more like a groaning “metal on metal” sound. Along with that I get a very slight noise like the a fore mentioned just to a lesser degree when turning to the right in forward i.e. pulling into a parking spot. Also, when I turn the wheel completely to the right, instead of getting that spongy sort of rebound and wheel return, the wheel just sort of wants to keep turning right like it slipped into a slot. So far as a point of needed maintenance I’ve replaced the tie rods and ends on both sides, replaced the front brake pads and rotors, replaced the right hub/bearing assembly and got 4 wheel alignment. I’ve checked the upper and lower control arms to the best of my ability and have found just very slight play. Stabilizer links look o.k. and feel pretty stable. I’m thinking CV Axle but I don’t know how to check it for failure and there is no mention of a CV Axle causing vibration in anything I’ve read on the interwebs. If anyone can help me diagnose this it would be greatly appreciated.
-
Replies
-
I think you’re on the right track for suspecting the CV joints. It seems like one of the most logical explanations. Unfortunately, they are very difficult to check. You can sometimes get some movement out of them if they’re bad. Grab the axle and see if you can move it around. You should have a little up and down movement, but not much. There should be no lateral or in and out play in the axle. If there is, then it’s likely the ‘c’ clip is bad and it’s probably a good idea to replace the axle. Another thing to check is the steering stops. These keep the wheel from turning too far. I often add a little grease to them to prevent noise. Here’s an article on finding noises that might also help.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-electrical-problems
Here’s on on vibrations.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/determining-the-causes-of-vehicle-vibrations
Here’s a video that shows the steering stops.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Thanks Eric, I’m going to check the stops and the CV axle for play tomorrow. I’m just going to ask in advance, as being a professional, do you have a preferred brand of aftermarket axles? If it needs to be replaced I’m considering going with aftermarket because a Land Rover OE will run me around $350.
OK, I took the wheels off and here’s my report. No vertical or horizontal play in the wheel, upper and lower ball joints look OK very minimal play rubber boots are good but “deflated”, upper and lower control arm bushings are good, stabilizer arm bushings look ok but need replacement in a year or so, Right CV Axle is solid as a rock, the left CV Axle has no up and down play and no rotational movement (by hand) but I do have in and out movement of about 1/8 inch. Also there seems to be some rubbing on a “bracket”??? I don’t know if it’s the right term, on the right side. It’s about mid line with the tire looks as if the tire is coming into contact with it because it’s polished. I’m going to take a picture and post it tomorrow because it started to rain and i’m in the driveway.
I’ve been doing some research and have come to find that the U-Joint on the lower steering shaft tends to seize. So I gained access to it and it does look rusty and worn. I turned the wheel without jacking it up and I couldn’t see anything wrong. Lately the steering has been starting to get real heavy with decreased wheel return in turns. As I mentioned before, the steering wheel turns about a 1/4 turn too far to the right and results in the wheel assembly coming into contact and resting on the stops. Could a seized U-Joint be causing my problems?
A worn steering shaft would cause rattling noise when turning the steering or going over bump. That would be the spline part of it that is causing the noise.
A seized steering shaft tho (the u-joint section of it) would cause a hard steering has you will fight to turn the steering and would cause the steering to stick as well. You may hear some cracking noise also when you attempt to turn the steering.
It would be worth it to remove and inspect for proper movement. The fact you said there is rubbing mark where you inspected the front end tend to say there is something happening there also.
I think I have the vibration figured out. I don’t know what this “bumper” is for but when compared to the left side it is pushed a good 2-3 inches forward. When the wheel is turned all the way to the right it slips behind the outside edge of the “bumper” I don’t know why I didn’t see this before. I guess i was focused on a mechanical issue causing the problem. It’s just held on by some bolts so I’m going to remove it and see what happens. Still going to check the steering shaft and U-Joint. Thanks!
That is odd. Let us know what happens after you remove it. As for the steering shaft, don’t worry about that until you’ve addressed this issue. For all we know that could be the cause of the heavy steering. As for the axle, I like Mevotech. You might just have a broken C clip however, meaning you may be able to repair the one you have instead of replacing it.
Keep us posted.
Is a p255/60 tire size the same as oem? Check the driver’s door sticker to see the original factory tire size. Tire rubbing is usually caused by oversized tire clearance issues.
The tire size I have is 255/60/18. The size from the factory is 255/55/19. Down sized for fuel economy, off road capability and comfort/drive-ability. I’m not a soccer mom so I really don’t need the 19″ for aesthetics. Talked to my parts manager. Top tip, if you are dumb enough to own a Land Rover, be sure make good friends with your parts manager. He say’s that the offending part in question is a wheel stop. It’s supposed to stop the wheel from being ripped off the truck while severe off roading. I think that if the wheel travels 3 inches off it’s operating axis to the aft it doesn’t really matter if it comes off or not.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.