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K&N Intake & Engine Sputtering

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  • #506718
    Michael YanezMichael Yanez
    Participant

      Hello All,

      I just recently installed a K&N Cold Air Intake on my 1997 Honda Accord EX 4 Cyclinder. For a while there it was running like a champ, but recently, it has been sputtering during acceleration and cruising in the 1500 to 2000 RPM range. I’m not sure here to start to fix this problem, are there any suggestions out there?

    Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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    • #506746
      Sang Kimskim3544
      Participant

        Sounds like you fouled the MAF sensor with KnN oil. It is not recommend to use K&N if the filter is too close to MAF, excess oil would damage the MAF. You can try cleaning MAF, this is sensitive sensor so you would need to use the spray cleaner. If that does not work I would replace the MAF.

        #506799
        college mancollege man
        Moderator

          try removing the cold air intake and return the
          stock set up to see if the sputtering goes away.

          #507931
          Michael YanezMichael Yanez
          Participant

            Engine Sputtering Update:

            So I drove around for 2 days with this condition with the K&N Intake still on and conditions worsened slightly with a check engine light coming on. The codes were P0303, & P0304 (Cylinder misfire #3 and #4). Additionally, a phrase “DTC Not Defined” also was given. After this I promptly parked the car and began taking things apart.

            First I looked at the MAP sensor. I cleaned it up with the appropriate cleaner, then probed it with a multimeter and ran a test with a handheld vacuum pump to see if it was working. All voltages were good.

            Second, I removed the throttle body and cleaned that up really good with the approprate spray cleaner as well. I also tested the Throttle Position sensor with a multi-meter and all voltages came back good as well.

            With everything reassembled and cleaned up, I cleared the codes and test drove the vehicle with no improvement whatsoever in the engine condition. The sputtering remained at a particular throttle position for moderate acceleration in the 1500-2000 RPM range or with 5th gear cruising in the same range (roughly 40-50 mph).

            So, with all that work not being successful, I tried disconnecting the Throttle Position sensor and driving it around. I obviously got the check engine light for it, but the sputtering went away. The only other issue with it now is the higher idling speed due to the TPS being out of the loop. Where as it normally idles at roughly 700 RPM, it is now idling at 1200 RPM. At least the roughness is gone, right?

            Not being content with that condition, I head on over to the storage unit to dig out my stock air intake components and reassemble them this morning. I’m thinking this will surely do the trick and return the car to normal (with the TPS re-connected too). Unfortunately, the same sputtering conditions remain with the stock intake as they manifested themselves with the K&N Cold Air Intake. This sucks…………

            So I am just about out of ideas. The only other thing I can think of doing now is buying new spark plug wires, with a distributor cap/button (I already replaced the old spark plugs with new NGK’s no less).

            My car “drives fine” without the TPS in the loop, but idles high. Sputters on acceleration and crusing with the RPM in the 1500-2000 range, both with and without stock and K&N intake components. Someone, PLEASE HELP!

            #507932
            Sang Kimskim3544
            Participant

              I would pull the spark plugs on 3 & 4 and check the condition of the plugs and spark test them. How many miles on the car?

              #508365
              R .G.Young,JrR.G.Young,Jr
              Participant

                if you have a lab scope or can find someone that does, you may want them to chedck the signal on the tps. it could be dropping out at a certain position. you would not me able to see this with a dvom.
                good luck and keep us posted.

                #511164
                Michael YanezMichael Yanez
                Participant

                  Update:

                  So I just got the car back from the dealership, and the problem has not alleviated itself. But I they sold me a new battery and tried to sell me a new distributor cap in the process.

                  In looking for some more detailed info, I thought I would take my car to local Honda Dealer and see what they could find. They said that they hooked it up to their diagnostic machine and noted all normal parameters at idle speed. I told them that the problem isn’t necessarily at idle, but when underway in those previously mentioned RPM ranges.

                  The front desk guy told me that they have gone as far as they can go with my vehicle, essentially telling me that they don’t have the time to devote to trouble shooting/investigating the issue with my car. I guess the front desk guy felt bad for, because he gave me a $5 discount off the total charge for the new battery and diagnostic fee. He also sent me on my way with a phone number to a local shop owner who works on nothing but Honda’s and Acura’s and told me to give him a shot. I guess this new guy may have more time than the dealership techs do in dealing with these types of problems.

                  I probably should have mentioned this first at the beginning of this post, but I committed a cardinal sin by throwing parts at this car in an attempt to fix things before doing some serious investigation. Some new parts are spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor (Actual Honda Brand no less), new MAP sensore, and new Throttle Position Sensor.

                  I know I probably shouldn’t have done all that, but that was before I saw Eric’s post on diagnosing vs. throwing parts at a car.

                  I’m thinking if this local guy can’t figure out what I have going on, I might as well drive this thing up to Eric’s shop and drop it off. I’m in the process of moving to Detroit anyways, so I reckon it’s kinda along the way. Anyone happen to know where Eric’s shop is anyway? I guess I probably should have asked that question first.

                  #511444
                  Michael YanezMichael Yanez
                  Participant

                    Update #2:

                    So the local shop owner tried all his tricks and couldn’t figure it out, so he sent me on my merry way suggesting that I get a hold of a different throttle body from one of the local junk yards and give that a shot. Considering that everything else had failed up to this point, I didn’t think it was a bad idea, although I would be throwing even more parts at the car.

                    I eventually got a hold of a throttle body from a 1995 Honda Accord (mine is a 1997 EX VTEC). I noted some very small differences in comparing my current throttle body and that of the junk yard piece, but nothing I couldn’t work around.

                    Long story short, I swapped the throttle bodies and in the process, cleaned out the EGR passages while I was at it. I also put the K&N Cold Air Intake back in just for kicks to see if anything would happen.

                    After some initial rough idling, the engine smoothed out once it was up to temperature and when I test drove it, the surging and engine roughness was no longer present. So I am guessing that this issue is resolved due to either the junk yard throttle body, or the EGR Passage clean out. Maybe both? I’m not sure, but the only think I care about is that my car is back to normal.

                    Many thanks to all those who contributed to my questions!

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