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My keyless entry remote’s red light stays on and the buttons don’t work. It isn’t sending any constant signal as far as I can tell, unless it’s the trunk open signal (my truck obviously doesn’t utilize this). I’m not sure if the button is stuck, or if it’s an electrical issue. I replaced the battery, as on this remote a constant light is a sign the battery is too depleted to send a signal. I put one in and it worked as normal, but after moving it around a bit, the light came on and the buttons stopped working again.
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No, I’ve taken it out and replaced it several times and it’s in there snugly. The old battery was only a month old at most so it’s definitely being drained.
You may need a new key fob unless you can do some more dismantling and investigation as to why the buttons are sticking.
Keep us posted.
Yeah a new key fob for this system is almost $50, even used. Unless I can fix it, it’ll probably just go without for a while. Unfortunate to be going without remote start into the winter, but whatever.
Scratch that, I found some for $20. New problem being, this is an aftermarket system that was on the truck when we got it, so there’s no record of the model. I know it’s made by Bulldog security, but that’s all. I’ve found that a universal programming procedure is to unplug the module and plug it back it and then immediately press a button on the remote and it’ll link. I’m assuming this won’t work. Would’ve been nice of the previous owner to keep the manual for the remote system…
If you can find the control unit you may be able to get the serial number off of it which you can use to find the manual online. Most companies like that have their manuals on their websites as PDF’s. You may also be able to order replacement parts.
Bulldog…there’s your problem. 😉
These are the cheapy solution, and usually work fine for a few months, then become a problem, usually to the point that it gets pulled. As Eric already stated though, just flip the control unit over(usually mounted up under the driver’s side dash, just follow the likely zip-tied lines from the ignition column); it’ll have the model/serial listed on the back.
Check most of the car electronics install forums to see what I’m referring to, http://the12volt.com , etc..
Truck is 14 years old and we’ve owned it for almost 10 of those… this system has always worked fine. Except that one time the “stealership” “accidentally” cut one of the wires. Thanks for the suggestions guys. The remote is working for the moment but depending on how it gets shaken it comes on, makes me think that the part of the button on the circuit board itself is damaged.
Theres no module in the engine compartment or under the dash, above the footwell (which is where the company told me to look). If it’s inside the dash, it’s a no go, if you know anything about Dodge trucks you’ll understand that I can’t take the dash off without breaking it (it is in fact already broken…)
Are you sure it’s not strapped to the steering column or the like? This is from when someone else had the car, yes? All this is is a bulldog remote start? It’s only about the size (slightly larger) of a pack of cigs in most cases, and has to be tied into the ignition wiring, so you should see taps where it’s leading off to nearby.
Well I didn’t remove the steering column covers but I guess I could look there.
The ONLY thing under the dash other than the diagnostic port was the a junction/fuse box. I sent a picture of it to the tech anyway because I had no other ideas and he said that isn’t it. He suggested I remove the dash.
Removing the dash doesn’t sound like much fun. I wouldn’t think they would goto those lengths for installation. I’d be checking the column as suggested first. Keep us posted on your progress.
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