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When I’m driving about 70MPH my jeep overheats. I can drive around town all day and go 55-60 on the highway with no problems (temperature stays just about 210, just under 210 is normal for a Jeep, so a little hotter than normal but will never overheat.) This is what I’ve done so far…
New radiator cap.
New Thermostat.
New water pump.
New catalytic converter. – Did help my hesitation problem though.
Top notch tune up.
New temperature sensor.
Flushed the living daylights out the system. No ickyness to be found.
I’m confident that I got all the air bubbles out.
Coolant color seems normal, oil is not milky and seems normal as well.
Radiator seems fine to me, it’s about 5-6 years old.
Fan clutch seems to be fine as well.Where should I look next?
I’m tired of throwing money away at guesses.
Please help and thank you.
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Jotmon,
You don’t even think the prestone radiator cleaner would be ok? That’s what I was going to use. Not Bleach, CLR or acid like I’ve read some people trying.After I put it back together I will use your suggestion for measuring the temp as well.
I worked in a radiator shop in another life. The only way to remove deposits is to remove the top tank and “ROD OUT” the flues. Chinese radiators are so cheap now that it’s not cost effective. I don’t think you will hurt it though.
Sorry, I’ve been meaning to give an update. I have tried cleaning out the radiator with prestone flush and clean. It worked a little bit but not enough to make a difference. I had quite the contraption going with my pool pump (utility pump for removing water from the cover) and a couple hoses to circulate the cleaner. I have been researching radiators and plan on just buying a new one. I think I’m just going to spend the money and get oem. All the other options just don’t sound good to me. Unless someone knows of a good brand and place to buy one from.
rockauto.com has an OSC 1682 radiator for under $100; automatic & transmission
OSC does not deviate from the OEM design on radiators unless it provides more cooling capacity.
It also includes the transmission cooler connections and I think new cap.
The other one to consider is a Spectra Premium CU2101 also under $100; automatic & manual transmission
The Mopar parts website does not even go back to 1999 to look up the radiator
If I had to replace the radiator in my car I would go OSC.
My friend Dan at work likes that same website, he recommended the Spectra CU2101. I can get a Mopar for $198 at wermopar.com, they are located in Bourbonnais, I was thinking of running down there quick and picking one up, their shipping costs are ridiculous. Either way I’m making my decision today.
Thanks for all your help. I will let you all know when I get it installed and if that truly was my problem.Ok, here’s my update. After a small hick-up, Summit shipping me a fan shroud for a GTO rather than a radiator. I was able to get it installed and took it for a small test drive. The Jeep temp never went over 210 and when I got home I used the infrared thermometer using the diagonal method and it had pretty even heat throughout the diagonal. I measured it all over and saw what a radiator with good flow should have. The real test will be this weekend when I will take it out on the highway. Thank you to everyone’s input and interest on my issue. I will give you an update on the highway test when it happens.
I’m actually wondering if this is a cooling system problem as opposed to electrical. I have the same problem with my ’98 TJ, just recently started. At some point, while at 65+ on the highway, the needle will climb past 210 slowly, then cruise right to the bottom of the red zone, never higher. In a minute, may 3 or 4 minutes, it drops back and the “Check Gauges” light goes out, all while cruising at the same speed. Coolant level remains the same, I have replaced the lower hose and thermostat, and the problem persists – sporadically. On the other hand, the gas gauge is never consistent, and all of the gauges will just quit every now and then. Or maybe a goofy temp sending unit?
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