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Common failures associated with ’99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee SUVs:
Cooling Fan Relay – This is a common failure, and unfortunately isn’t easily accessible. It is behind the right headlight. If your Grand Cherokee has the tow package, you don’t have to worry about this problem because you have a mechanical fan & fan clutch.
Window Regulators – Very common failure. Usually it only happens to fail on the driver’s side.
Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) – This only applies to the 4.0L I6. If you have a Grand Cherokee with the I6, it will more than likely need a new CMP at one time or another. This problem doesn’t always trigger a CEL to come on. The part itself is about $60. The symptoms can include: randomly stalling while driving, no start, long crank, ect.
Front Brake Rotors – WJs are known to warp their front brake rotors, even under light driving conditions. Under severe driving conditions, you can expect brand new rotors to be warped within a year or two. Folks on the Jeep forum have had success with an aftermarket set up.
CD Disk Changer – Mostly found on limited trim models, most of them don’t work after about 10 years or so.
Piston Skirts – Mainly effecting 2000 and 2001 models with the I6, the piston skirts break apart and fall into the oil pan. Most of the time this just happens for no reason, and once it happens, kiss the engine good bye. If I recall correctly the main cause of this was the cast used to make the pistons in the factory was defective. ETCG actually made a video on a Jeep that came into his shop:
Transmission & Axle – The I6 was paired with a 4 speed automatic 42RE transmission and Dana 35 axle. While the failure rates are intermittent, most fail in the 150,000 mile range- even the perfectly maintained ones. Neither of these components has a stellar reputation for being reliable. They’re just “okay”. If you have the 4.7L V8, then you don’t need to worry about axle or transmission failure because the ones paired with the V8s are very strong and reliable.
4.7L Aluminium Head – In 1999 Chrysler introduced their new line of truck V8s into their lineup. Their aluminum heads are very prone to warping, even if the engine has not overheated. The symptoms are typical with what you would expect from a warped head. The repair bill would be about what you would expect too. If this happens, be prepared to shell out a lot of $$$.
Hood & Rear Glass Struts – The supports for the hood and the glass portion of the rear tailgate are notorious for early failure. This is a cheap and easy fix, however.
Despite these problems, I believe the WJ Grand Cherokee is a great SUV as far as practicality and versatility are concerned. They’re practically trail ready as is (provided they have decent tires and 4 wheel drive). You can pick them up for between $2,000 – $5,000 these days, making them great candidates for a project vehicle, family SUV, rock crawler, or off roader. The I6 is an iron engine that can survive neglect like a champ, easy to work on, and has cheap replacement parts.
That’s all I can think of for now. Mods feel free to edit my post with your own input. WJ owners are also invited to comment. 🙂
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The 42RE transmission does hold up.The newer 5 speed automatic mated to the 4.7,a bullet proof transmission and rarely goes out.The 4.7 does have valve seat problems,installed loose from the factory.If you encounter one which the valve seat have come apart in pieces,replace the intake since there is no way of cleaning it out.
Agree completely with all of the above. Also, 99-01ish 4.0s (all jeeps not just wj) have a defective cylinder head casting that from what I’ve seen is almost a guarantee to fail. 02 and newer have the updated TUPY casting that isn’t prone to cracking. It’s a shame because the 4.0 of years past was bulletproof, and when mated to the AW4 transmission in other jeeps is about as reliable of a drivetrain as you’ll see. I should’ve kept my 4.7 WJ but I got an ML430 for $1000s less.
I have a 00 limited with the 4.7L and 45rfe. I have a P0751 code but have no real issues with it. I was told to get the updated flash for the tcm but never got around to doing it.
I believe the P0751 is another common thing with WJ’s regardless of which engine & transmission. My brother’s 01 4.0 has this code stored a lot but it usually doesn’t trigger the CEL. It’s for the overdrive off button on the shifter, his is messed up and gets stuck pushed in sometimes. Unless that function is important to you there’s no reason to worry.
I hate the 4.7 Chrysler with a deep passion,Chrysler should of never drop the 318.The 4.7 is a horrible pita to work and expensive when it breaks.Fault points are the timing chains and there 3 three of them.I hate the oil pan gasket which is part of the windage tray,Have to pound it off putting something between the oil pan and gasket to get it off
Would you guys recommend against buying a wj? I was looking at two specifically, a 2000 with the 4.0, 124,000 miles. Looks brand new, does have a two inch lift. I was also looking at a 2004 columbia edition with the 4.7
No, i own one and so does some family members and we love them. as with any older car you have to keep up on taking care of it. go for it!!!!!
These comments are helpful I’ll know what to look for I have a 2000 jeep wj love it has 173,000 miles. Still factory engine tranny and axile have not had any of the listed issues. The heads are still factory and not cracked runs great drives great I love it. I put the mileage on it to I drive about 10’000 miles every 3 months oil change every 5’k tranny was just serviced so far it’s a healthy jeep no strange engine noises either this jeep has a lot of long idol hours too and it’s drove heavily in the city on 100 degree days just had a new radiator out in still has factory water pump. Just had a tune up done as well love it also still has the factory cooling fan it does suffer from the common brake vibration issue it still has the factory calipers never wanted to spend to have it fixed as the issue has not been that bad and it stops just fine it gets better when I do the brakes I change the rotors at that time!
Mine also has many of the factory parts and runs good. I only have a issue it it sometimes wants to stumble and stall and loose power at times but I can’t figure it out since it does not throw a check engine light. And I am pushing 145,000.
have you ever had the engine control computer checked for awhile that was an issue on the older jeep grand Cherokees mine had an issue where id be stopping at lights it would stall and always start back up right after sometimes it would stumble and sound as if it backfired one time it did it would hesitate at times i did some research found the computers to be know to cause this and people where changing loads of parts not fixing the issue i went out with the engine running and wiggled the wires on the computer my jeep stumbled then tried to back fire i then new the issue i took it in had a new computer put in it has been fine ever since 40,k since the computer was changed. i also had a 98 grand Cherokee same thing it seems to be common on the 98-2000 ish computers alone run about 500 bucks not including install i got mine from auto-zone. i cant say thats whats causing your issue but i would check the computer im not sure of your year but from like 96ish to 2004 the computer is under the hood up against the fire wall behind the coolant tank.
I had that problem with my 97 and after changing out the computer it was solved but I was told that the ecu. Issue was fixed in the 99-04 jeeps but how would I check it?
im not sure of when the fix was done on them just a thing to check what i did on mine is i carefully jiggled the 3 connectors to the computer mine stalled so i knew that was an issue i was careful because i was afraid of doing damage to the computer if it wasnt already broken look for breaks in the wiring also or green stuff on the wires or pins i wouldn’t unplug the computer with the battery connected though im always afraid of frying something again not sure what year that issue was fixed but it seemed very common there are loads of other things that can cause your symptoms.
For some reason I can’t edit my original post, but it’s the crankshaft position sensor that goes bad, NOT the camshaft position sensor. (As far as the 4.0L is concerned. Scanner Danner has a great video about confirming this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpL_0-8DrhE&ab_channel=ScannerDanner)
Usually P0320 codes are associated with this failure. It usually happens right around 140-150k miles (mine literally just failed).
Using an aftermarket sensor will NOT work. The only replacement is a Mopar sensor. They retail for right around $90 out of a dealership, maybe slightly less if you can get it online.
PART NUMBER: 4897321AB
The sensor is right by the bell housing on the driver’s side of the car. The electrical connector is by the oil filter on the passenger side.
Good luck tackling this job. Getting to the bolts isn’t even the hardest part, and that’s a nightmare in and of itself. [s]1990s[/s] ALL Chrysler products are junk… no wonder they went under.
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