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2nd thread in one day sorry.. but 2.5L s10 has a really bad cold start it takes usually 1-2 cranks before it’ll start up, has new plugs wires , and a new egr but can’t seem to figure out why it takes so long to start. also if you press the gas slightly it will missfire very bad. does anyone have any suggestions? keep in mind i am limited to tools thanks very much though!
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I would look at some of the basic things that can cause hard starting.
Spark plug cables that touch each other or touch the valve cover/head/block, (causing crossfire), incorrect spark plug gap, incorrect spark plug wire sequence, worn timing chain/gears, incorrect ignition timing, faulty distributor cap and rotor, and broken return springs in the distributor’s mechanical advance mechanism, (resulting in advanced timing during cranking).
A simple compression check might be worth the effort.
All of these things are easy to check and don’t require a lot of tools.
thanks for the reply, my s10 only has 140k miles and has good oil pressure which makes me believe that compression or inner parts aren’t a problem but could still very much be. i had put new wires and plugs on it and i’m oretty sure that they touch the valve cover and block but i didn’t know this could cause a problem ? also do know that the distributer leaks some oil .
i’m going to put a new fuel filter on it today i’ll let you know if it changes anythingAnything that causes the spark to go to the wrong cylinder at the wrong time will cause misfires.
Evil-I has listed the most common causes.
Cap and rotor are both maintenance items which are expected to be replaced at regular intervals because they will wear out over time.
They may appear ok to the untrained eye but actually be bad.
Corroded contacts, cracks in the cap or rotor, a worn cap carbon button, fine carbon lines from arcing inside the cap and burns through the rotor are all things that go wrong with them.
An original equipment AC Delco cap and rotor –which is what you should buy– are only around $16 at Rockauto and could be similarly priced locally.
Misfires after the wires are replaced very often result from the wires accidentally being in the wrong order on the distributor cap.
Check that they are clockwise ordered 1-3-4-2 .
https://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038ee3d
To keep them in place and off of metal, he wires snap into plastic looms—which never come with the new wire set, so you have to reuse them.If the backfiring issue began after the plugs and wires were replaced, then recheck the spark plug gap, recheck that all the wires are snugly on both at the cap and the plug ends–and that the firing order going clockwise is 1-3-4-2.
If any wire contacted hot metal, the insulation could have burned through–necessitating a replacement for that wire.If oil is leaking inside the distributor and contaminating the area inside the cap, that’s a problem.
If some oil leaks around the outside at the base, it shouldn’t be an issue.If everything above checks out. Then check to see if ignition timing and compression are within specs .
okay i haven’t had much time to really check out the problem lately , buddy i bought it from said it did this even when he had it (he thinks it’s a fuel delivery problem) what it does is it runs good at higher rpms but if i hold the accelerator down just slightly it will misfire and bog real bad. when i get the chance i am going to check it all out again
so…. i haven’t had time to check anything but today i started it put it in drive and it just shut off, started it back up and then drive about 20ft and then shut off ….. then later i was at a red light and it just died…..
fuel pump ???
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