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I have been struggling to find a definite answer for fixing a leaking oil pan on my 1995 Acura Integra LS. I rebuilt the engine myself about a year ago and have since had oil leaking problems out of the oil pan. The oil leaks onto the exhaust running under the pan and burns off. I am running Castrol 5W-30 Full Synthetic Oil and I was debating if I should revert to conventional oil to diminish the leak or maybe I should use an OEM gasket and keep using full synthetic. I have looked into the MyHondaHabit gasket kit, but I’m not too sure of it’s legitimacy. I would really appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!!! 🙂
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[quote=”Dylonious94″ post=181475]I have been struggling to find a definite answer for fixing a leaking oil pan on my 1995 Acura Integra LS. I rebuilt the engine myself about a year ago and have since had oil leaking problems out of the oil pan. The oil leaks onto the exhaust running under the pan and burns off. I am running Castrol 5W-30 Full Synthetic Oil and I was debating if I should revert to conventional oil to diminish the leak or maybe I should use an OEM gasket and keep using full synthetic. I have looked into the MyHondaHabit gasket kit, but I’m not too sure of it’s legitimacy. I would really appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!!! :)[/quote]
Its imperative that both surfaces are clean of any sealant or gasket. You can use a little in the corners only.
The gasket needs to be straight and the 9ft pound torque sequence be followed. You don’t have to use the
one with the kit stud replacement this was just to show the procedure. If you do the pan right you should be
able to be leak free with whatever oil choice you make.I have done this job multiple times. I’ve experimented with the use of sealant or no sealant. I know how the procedure goes. It’s just badly engineered as far as gaskets go. This MyHondaHabit gasket, doesn’t squeeze out when torqued down and maintains its shape. So, I am quite interested in using this gasket because it seems to do what the Felpro gaskets don’t do. I’ve bought countless Felpro gaskets and I’m sure all of the other gaskets do the same thing, seeing that they are made out of the same material. If there is one thing I didn’t do, it is retorque the bolts after driving it. That is something that is never mentioned in the procedure. But I don’t thing it is a good idea to do the exact same thing I did last time, but retorque the bolts. I’m pretty sure I’ll just end up with the same results.
I certainly will!!! The first thing I want to do, is check if my oil pan is flat and even. Do you know of an accurate way of checking this?
[quote=”Dylonious94″ post=181491]I certainly will!!! The first thing I want to do, is check if my oil pan is flat and even. Do you know of an accurate way of checking this?[/quote]
You would have to drag a straight edge across both sides of the pan.
Placing the pan upside down on a flat surface, like a sheet of thick glass, a granite counter top, or a machinist’s plate, and then checking for gaps with feeler gauges, should give you a good idea of the pan rails’ flatness. If your pan rails have locating studs or other protrusions, you’ll have to account for the clearances they produce.
Hondabond.
Make sure both sides are clean and dry. After assembly let it cure for a couple of hours before you put oil back in the engine. 24 hours is ideal. Keep indoors if ambient temperatures are below freezing until cured.
If you really want to do guarantee it, apply a small amount of Hondabond to each surface.
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