Instrument Cluster and Back up lights not working

[sjrobinson]

This is for a 98 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.0L

The car has been neglected and I’m trying to get it to pass inspection. One of the things was the back up switch. I tested and replaced it and the back up lights worked fine. But then the battery died and I decided to leave it disconnected for a few days while I was working on other repairs.

I replace the valve cover gaskets (where I had to disconnect a 7 wire connector) and then connect everything back again. I go to jump start the car and the gauge cluster does not move or light up and the back up switch is not working. All the other lights work and the cluster with the system lights (CEL, Brake, Oil, etc.) right about the gauge cluster still lights up. The car starts up fine.

I checked the gauge fuse and it was fine but I swapped it with a good known fuse. The back up switch doesn’t have a fuse and it is still working when I do a continuity test.

Are the two things related by a connector or relay? Perhaps a connection at the ignition switch?

Thanks

Topic

[sjrobinson]

Yeah, that much I know. But this is a small gasket leak and the car isnt worth that much. So its a bandaid and once it goes again the car is all done and for the junkyard. But Ill take your advice seriously and do more research on the product.

[Bill]

I have seen reverse light problems like you have before. Turned out to be a worn detent lever inside the transmission although it’s possible you just got a bad switch.

The cluster in those vans had problems with the circuit boards and cracked solder joints on the board. They start off with intermittent problems.

The high battery voltage has many possible causes.

Head gaskets on the Mitsubishi 3.0 lt. usually leak coolant into the combustion chamber. If you’re not having to add coolant constantly your steam in the exhaust could be just condensation with the cooler temps outside. White goo on the oil cap could be caused by short trips and or a bad thermostat on long with a plugged PCV valve.

I scrapped a 3.0 with a blown head gasket not long ago.

[sjrobinson]

Reverse switch was bad but I think it was the alternator that might have killed it. The battery voltage has consistently read 13.5v with the car running but at one point I read 16.6v off the alternator. Now its back to normal. Its a “new” remanufactured alternator. The regulator may be faulty.

But I did not know that about the clusters. Might be like Honda main relays- when the solder joints get old they start to overheat and act up. The cluster may have intermittently failed from the high alternator output.

What I see from the gasket problem is the smell of the exhaust but almost no exhaust smoke. There was a little, tiny bit of steam coming out near the exhaust manifold and head. I didn’t think it suspicious until I investigated the gasket issue.

This car has had a history of overheating. The owner turned to me after the mechanics she tried failed to fix the problems. They were dishonest as well- changing out parts that weren’t necessary.

The air filter was black and the cooling system was leaky. This would lead to overheating and head gasket damage. The leak was the coolant pipe o-ring as made obvious by the streak of clean metal along the tranny where the coolant leaked out. On top of that the overfill was completely clogged. All this was untouched by the guy who said the problem was the radiator and replaced it (failing to even hook up the transmission cooler lines but just looping it back into the housing :pinch: )

I will be doing a leak down test but from what I see theres too much pressure in the system from escaping combustion gases. No milky oil, just trace oil in the coolant. Thermostat was ok but i replaced it for good measure since its cheap.

Blue devil looks promising just because this leak does not look serious. Its hit or miss but from the research it appears those it did not work for had bigger leaks.

[Bill]

Sounds like a butcher job for sure. It looks like you’re on track with the problems but I thought I would share some of my experiences with you anyway.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[sjrobinson]

Thats probably the best way of putting it. Dont even get me started on the brakes. I did a complete overhaul on them. But I will keep the part in mind about the instrument cluster. That may need replacing soon. For now I just need it to pass inspection for her and stay running for a little while

Thanks for your input 😆

[EricTheCarGuy]

That was quite a read. I agree that the high voltage may have fried a few things. Anything above 15v is no bueno. As for checking the head gasket, there might be an easier way. I show how in this video.

Keep us posted on your progress and if you’re able to pass inspection. To be honest, it doesn’t sound like it’s worth investing into but I wish you the best all the same.

Good luck.

[sjrobinson]

Thanks for your input. At first I forgot about my trusty vacuum gauge but I pulled it out a few days ago and verified the gasket leak. The needle dropped every time the leak occurred at the cylinder. It was a little hard to catch. That in combo with steam subtly coming from the head and the smell of burnt water (since I have no antifreeze in the system at this time) all confirmed it. I don’t have a leak down tester though.

I’ll take a look at the video too. I think the biggest things with the overheating were the dirty filter, blown gasket, and perhaps the clogged overflow reservoir?

I’m in the process of trying Blue Devil. I’m cleaning out the system first. The product says its guaranteed so if it doesn’t work I imagine I can get some compensation if I complain.

This car belongs to a friend with not a lot of money so I’m actually doing this for free and putting a little of my own money into it. She can’t afford a new car so fixing this is worth a bit more than buying a new car. Plus the learning experience (and helping someone) to me is worth much more. :cheer:

Should be all set for now. Once the sealer is run through, parking brake is fixed and the transmission cooling lines are hooked up… I just have to wait for the readiness codes to go through and see what the ECU says needs to be repaired 😛

[EricTheCarGuy]

I’m not a fan of stop leak, especially in that instance. You might create more problems than you fix. I understand your situation however and you’ve probably made the right call. I just need to voice my concerns.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Author]

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