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The differential operation sounds normal with how the wheels are rotating.
Here are a few video’s from Eric that may help –
Suspension noises –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scFbb43f … wY_5_I4%3D
Bearing noises –
Quoted From dreamer2355:
The differential operation sounds normal with how the wheels are rotating.
Here are a few video’s from Eric that may help –
Suspension noises –
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scFbb43f … wY_5_I4%3D
Bearing noises –
Yeah, I’ve seen those videos… Good videos… but not really what I need.
The one on suspension noises doesn’t really cover rear much… especially differential, axle, axle bearing area (where I’m having my problem).The Video on bearings is more about wheel bearings, not axle bearings, and how to find which one’s bad. I dont THINK it’s a wheel bearing… I believe it’s the rear axle bearing on the left side… And Eric’s test won’t work on a RWD, because the parking brake needs to be set, and my parking brake is on the drive wheels…
But either way… the fact that the rear drivers-side wheel isn’t getting as much power (with no load on either drive wheel) all but guarantees me that the problem is from the rear left wheel, the differential, or somewhere in between.
I know they have Chassis Ears to help isolate the problem (whether it’s coming from the axle, wheel, or differential)… but I don’t have any, and trying not to blow money on more tools… especially if it turns out I need the differential worked on $$$$$$$.I should mention that the symptom is mostly when I am going straight at speeds of 30 moh minimum… When I turn, it doesn’t seem too different (probably would make the noise if I was turning at 30 mph)…
There MAY be a LITTLE (VERY FAINT) noise when turning to the RIGHT… but it’s so faint at turning speeds that it is hard to tell. I guess that would make sense… because the left wheel should be turning faster when I turn right, but it’s getting less power… But still, at turning speed, the noise is pretty near non-existant.
And the noise is consistent whether I have the accelerator or the brake engaged or disengaged… (as long as im still going 30-45 mph)Front suspension is a little squeaky because I haven’t greased it up in a while… but nothing seems loose or broken. Either way… front suspension shouldn’t have anything to do with the power getting to my rear wheel with no load (both drive wheels were off the ground)
Any other ideas?
Anybody else ever seen axle or axle bearing issues cause so much resistance that the wheel gets this much less power? Or could it still be a differential issue?That is normal for a open differential to do that with both wheels off the ground, if it was posi or limited they both should spin the way.
As for the sound……. Have you checked out the drive shaft for play and to see if it had a weight on it that came off?Yes what you saw as far as power delivery is normal as a common differential sends power to the wheel with the LEAST traction so when you have both wheels off the ground they will not get equal power. I haven’t heard the noise so it’s hard for me to say exactly what’s wrong but have you checked the brakes yet? It could be as simple as worn out brakes.
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
That is normal for a open differential to do that with both wheels off the ground, if it was posi or limited they both should spin the way.
As for the sound……. Have you checked out the drive shaft for play and to see if it had a weight on it that came off?AHA! Thank you Trcustoms719!!! I looked at the driveshaft when I checked the differential fluid… but I guess I missed the big a** dent right in the center of it (the dent was probably faced upward when I looked). After seeing your post I got back under there to look for missing weights and the dent was looking right at me. Halfway up the driveshaft there is a 2-3 inch long dent, perpendicular to the shaft, about 1/4” deep (I think Dad might have hit something bigger than a curb). I guess that would explain why i’m feeling most of the vibration from the floor? And why it doesn’t show too much when I turn (because of the slower speed)?
Im going to have to lift the rear up again and run it to see if I notice any oscillation in the driveshaft (to see if its actually bent, or just dented). If I dont notice too much oscillation, do u think this could still be the problem? Or could the noise happen even when there is not alot of oscillation (if the shaft is not bent, just out of balance)?
I couldn’t get ANY play at rear U-joint or yoke of differential… but there was the tiniest amount of play on the front end where it connects to transmission yoke… And an extremely faint “click click” when I try to shake it for play. Is this normal? should there be a little play there, and the “clicking” noise (metal on metal)? Or is this a sign or a bent shaft? Or possibly that front U-joint?
Again! thanks for the help! And THANK YOU ERIC for creating this awesome site. You really do have some awesome followers!
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Yes what you saw as far as power delivery is normal as a common differential sends power to the wheel with the LEAST traction so when you have both wheels off the ground they will not get equal power. I haven’t heard the noise so it’s hard for me to say exactly what’s wrong but have you checked the brakes yet? It could be as simple as worn out brakes.
I changed the brakes immediately after I noticed the sound… It wasn’t necessary, but I did it anyway just to be sure. Thanks for the info on the differential. I hope you come out with your video on differentials soon (you mentioned you were gonna make one in one of your videos, I don’t remember which one). I think my problem is in the driveshaft… At least I hope so, id hate to dump money into that, then find out i’ve got an axle bearing out or something. But I’ll let yall know how it all turns out! Thanks Eric! Thanks for creating such an awesome site!
The click noise is normal, it’s just the gear teeth moving back and forth. I used to know an old-school method of balancing a driveshaft with chalk and some hose clamps, but I can’t remember the details. I seem to recall it was to have the vehicle in drive with the drive wheels off the ground and the engine running, then you carefully held a piece of chalk up to the driveshaft until it made a mark. You would then put two hose clamps around the driveshaft with the part you actually turn 180 degrees away from where the mark was made. Google is your friend when it comes to learning how to do that sort of balancing.
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
I would put another drive shaft in it.
I almost promise you that’s what your problem is.I hope youre right
Your cheapest alternative will be to buy junkyard stuff– like those doors. You may be able to just retrofit the electric window regulators and switches without changing the doors. You’ll have to run some wires, but that shouldn’t be too big of a deal. That’s how I’d do it if it were me. If you’re lucky, maybe you’ll find the wiring already there. When you get the used doors make sure you get the rubber thing that the wires go through and at least a pig-tail of the wiring in the vehicle body. You should only have to run a couple wires to the passenger door and a power and ground to the driver’s door switch.
There’s a company called Electric Life that sells retrofit kits to put power windows into classic cars (think ’60s muscles cars and the like) which are controlled by the crank handle. You might want to see if they’ve got something. electric-life.com
I’ve never personally used them for anything, but I did read about them in a magazine once. A quick look at their website and I think they have what you’re looking for. It’s worth a shot.
Well… my buddy has a forklift at his shop, so I took it to his shop this morning so I could lift it and run it to watch the driveshaft for oscillation. Yes, there most definately was some oscillation, at LEASTan 1/8”. HOWEVER… I noticed a noise coming from the rear end that I didn’t notice when did this the 1’st time (in my driveway on jackstands, with neighbors mowing their lawns… lol).
With the accelerator on, and no load on the wheels, I could hear some clinking noises (metal on metal sound) coming from what seemed to be the differential. I could hear it equally with my ear to the outside of both wheels. It almost sounds like the noise is traveling up the axle from the differential. With stethoscope (my hi-tech flathead screwdriver), I could hear a LITTLE bit of clinking at the differential itself, most noticeable when pressed up against the front side (close to where driveshaft attaches)… but the noise is much more noticeable (even without stethoscope) on the outside of the wheels.
Sound like differential problems? Or could it still be the driveshaft (just skaking stuff around in there or something)?
Im sure I could find a driveshaft for cheap at the pick-n-pull… If I do that should I have it balanced 1st?
Im off Friday, so I’ll probably be able to open up the differential and check for metal flakes on the magnet and check the gears and such. (YES, I already made sure it’s not low on fluid… and fluid really doesn’t look that nasty). Anything else, specifically, that I should look for when I have the differential open?If your concerned about your rear differential, you can check the bearing pre loads and end play. Also use some gear paste and see if the ring and pinion gear are meshing correctly.
Since the drive shaft is a known problem I would start with that, you may be able to have it repaired check to see if you have a shop locally that repairs and builds axles. If you put the new axle in and still have issue THEN look to the differential, the rule here is don’t make problems where there aren’t any, you may be just fine with replacing the axle.
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