Installing a new oil pan 2000 CR-V B20Z2

[Michael Bloom]

The oil drain bolt is stripped, and because it’s so easy to get to, I’m just going to put a new pan on it instead of re-tapping and risking getting a sliver of metal in my motor. Dropping the pan on these CR-V’s is easy, because the downpipe is the only thing in the way.

My question is, how much Hondabond HT to use, and where? Do I just do the four corners at the crank, or do I do the whole thing? I’ve had mixed signals on this, and from what I’m seeing, there’s no definitive answer.

I did see where the torque is 102 in.lbs., and I found the tightening sequence, so I’ll definitely stick to that.

Topic

[Todd Smith]

I think I can shed some light on this. Some Honda motors have 90 degree angles in their gaskets, where the gasket wraps around a bearing cap. In this instance, you would apply a small dab of Hondabond on that sharp 90 degree angle. This is because pre-formed silicon gaskets don’t seal well when they encounter sharp turns. This is true of both valve cover and oil pan gaskets.
In your case, with a B20Z2 (and pretty much all of the B series engines), the oil pan surface is flat. This is because the engine uses an integrated main bearing cradle with the block extending below the bottom of the crankshaft’s bearing caps. You do need to dab Hondabond in a few spots for this arrangement. The locations that need Hondabond are where the rear-main seal and front oil pump housing castings meet the rear and front of the block. When you scrape away the old gasket material, you incidentally remove some of the sealant, at the bottom, between the castings. This allows a little tiny avenue for oil to seep out because the new silicon gasket can’t extend up in-between the two castings.

[Michael Bloom]

Awesome! Thank you for clearing that up. Makes perfect sense now.

[Author]

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