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My ’99 civic had a radiator leak about 45 days ago so I purchased a new Denso rad part # 2213208. It’s a relatively easy install then bled the system after watching Eric’s video. Ever since the install, coolant overflow bottle fills up but does not drain back into the radiator. Here is what I’ve done to trouble shoot the issue:
Pressure tested No Leaks
Head Gasket test Blue fluid did not change color.
Bled System again for about 5 fan cycles
Thermostat is about 18 months old (OEM)
Oil looks clean
Coolant is clean
Bled system again for about another 15-20 minutes, I have the yellow funnel in Eric’s video.Boys I’m starting to get really pissed off, I’m going to check if the car gets heat, in fact I’m going to take a temp reading and post here.
Can the water pump, heater core, or something else be causing this issue? Do I need to do a compression test?
Please help a frustrated lady. :stick:
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I agree with pulling the thermostat and driving 1st to see. It is not a big job with no loss if it does the same thing. All though you already know that this is not the thermostat. You do know this is an older car that you have mentioned in earlier post that you do not want to ruin but you do not want to spend a lot of money into. As far as head gasket, your probably right but you could call up shop and ask for discounted shot rate of just checking HC count without trying to diagnose further for you. If I was doing a head gasket replacement, I recommend the machine shop resurfacing as Eric’s video did. I know everyone here just wants to help but in the end you are footing the bill. Slow and cautious with testing before firing the parts cannon is always best when you can afford that luxury. Understand if it is your everyday get to work car, that is hard.
Best of luck.
No problem. Wish could be more help as we all do but it is hard for anyone without the car right there in front of them.
Granted the thermostat is not the problem. But if the head gasket is there’s a good chance the car will function better without the thermostat in place.
Rick
For future reference, the symptoms you’ve been trying to diagnose probably could have been figured out with a leak down test. A cylinder leakage tester can be rented/loaned from most parts stores and you’d just need an air compressor to operate the tester. In your case, you would have wanted to do your testing with the engine already hot since the car seems to need a half hour to start overheating. The leak might have sealed up on a cold cranking compression test whereas the heat of normal driving expands something well enough to open a leak back up. It could have gotten past the blue stuff too if you’re only testing the car at idle. Low combustion pressures at idle may not have been enough to push past a mild gasket leak. Another thing you could have done was to read your spark plugs while you had them out for compression testing. The color of your coolant can faintly show up on your spark plugs if it’s getting into the cylinders.
If you want to change the water pump at this point, you shouldn’t fear it if you’ve already got the head off too. You would have had to pull the timing belt for the head anyway so now the water pump is easy pickings.
Should I spend the $45.00 on new head bolts. Is the reason you change them because they are susceptible to breaking?
The thermostat comes out today.I think it’s a good idea. Have the head serviced at the shop for resurfacing and valve inspection, etc.
As with most Japanese engine head bolts they are not torque to yield and therefore can be reused pending inspection. I have never replaced Honda or Subaru head bolts and have yet to have a single repeat failure in almost 20 years.
Rick
Good video to check out for 1st time head replacement did and donts. Wish you the best and hope thermostat out buys you that two months
Today I flushed the cooling system in preparation for Bluedevil head gasket sealer. I will report results but I’m guessing less than50/50 chance.
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