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My ’99 civic had a radiator leak about 45 days ago so I purchased a new Denso rad part # 2213208. It’s a relatively easy install then bled the system after watching Eric’s video. Ever since the install, coolant overflow bottle fills up but does not drain back into the radiator. Here is what I’ve done to trouble shoot the issue:
Pressure tested No Leaks
Head Gasket test Blue fluid did not change color.
Bled System again for about 5 fan cycles
Thermostat is about 18 months old (OEM)
Oil looks clean
Coolant is clean
Bled system again for about another 15-20 minutes, I have the yellow funnel in Eric’s video.Boys I’m starting to get really pissed off, I’m going to check if the car gets heat, in fact I’m going to take a temp reading and post here.
Can the water pump, heater core, or something else be causing this issue? Do I need to do a compression test?
Please help a frustrated lady. :stick:
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Trust me, I wish i had another option besides changing the rad. I hate wasting money throwing part at a 99 civic. Like the title says Stumped and very very frustrated.
94 Honda Accord lx had the same problem as op. It’s been trying to reach the red all of the sudden so I put in new thermostat.
Kept on finding reservoir tank full and top of radiator missing fluid. I bled it like on the vid and still doing it. It got pretty bad and a friend of mine found a leaking hose and it got better. It still filling res tank and missing fluid on top of rad. There has to be a leak somewhere else.After thinking it over some more, this issue smells head gasket. Yes I did the block test with the blue fluid about 5 times always passed. Today I may rent the block tester again and a compression tester as well.
I agree with rechecking block test. Be sure to pump it over a few minutes of running. Would love to here what you find out
Block test fluid stayed blue again.
I watched Eric’s video on compression testing. I followed his instrucrtions to a tee. Inserted compression gauge screwed it into spark plug hole cracked for 5 seconds and the gauge would not hold the reading at all. I saw the gauge to up to the 120 range but immediately fell back to 0. I think Autozone rented me a faulty compression gauge.Could be water pump if not the cap. Water pump might not be strong enough to circulate the coolant properly.
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]bt7_DhsTG_Q[/video]
[quote=”mckrishes” post=178553]Could be water pump if not the cap. Water pump might not be strong enough to circulate the coolant properly.
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]bt7_DhsTG_Q[/video][/quote]
This is a good possibility.
I just looked up the pump for the 99 Civic and it has that same metal impeller shown in Eric’s video.
From personal experience, some cars are really bad for trapping air in the cooling system and then pushing coolant out the cap and overheating, did you properly bleed the air from the cooling system after filling it? In other words: not just putting a funnel in the radiator cap, but opening bleed ports..
Today’s test results
Radiator pressure test @16lbs
May be dropped 1/4-1/2 psi in 20 minutesCylinder compression test
#1 180
#2. 180
#3 180
#4. 185So whats left:
Thermostat ( replaced with oem maybe 3 years ago)
Defective new radiator/ cap from Denso replaced maybe 90 days agoWater pump replaced at 113k currently 182k
Any thoughts pleaseI would definitely check the water pump, especially if the one replaced at 113k was an aftermarket. Most of those are chinese water pumps that don’t last at all.
I think my next course of action will be a bottle of Blue Devil. I saw a few bubbles in the coolant overflow today after about a 30 minute drive. And I mean very few.
Water pump
Very difficult very labor intensive and expensive.That stuff might makes things worse. Are you sure you have a head gasket problem? Compression test results look pretty good. Did you do wet and dry tests for compression?
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